Victor Laury

As the guys said above, "check the fill plug first", is good advice. Getting a Factory Service manual is even better advice. Now, to check the level, remove the fill plug and sick your finger into the case. If you touch oil. The level is fine. But you should change the oil if it's an unknown factor. After you check the fill plug. Remove the drain plug and catch the old oil. It will be disturbing to see the amount of metal pieces in this oil, but hopfully you will not find any large chunks. Clean the drain plug magnet. It mostly there to trap the metal than as a diagnostic! Let the case drip dry (about 30 minutes). Replace the drain and pump in new oil. I like RedLine Oils MTL <Manual Transmission Light) but there are others bost less and more costly. 3.5 quarts (?) (somebody correct this). If you cannot remove the fill plug, remove the reverse switch and use that as your fill port. I bought a 1 gallon mustard pump jar from the restruant supply (Smart and Final Stores in L.A.) for my dedicated tranny oil pump. Fill the case untill it starts dripping from the fill port and you're done.

I joined the 240Z.org mailing list and fell into the forum from there.

At 10J -14, I don't know if they'll fit even with coilovers! Fun to try though. What'd ya think? about 6 1/2'' of backspace?

I'm wearing 225/50/15 Falken ZE512's on 15X7@0 wheels, with MSA springs - No worries. Nice price @ $50.00 apiece for a good tire. I intend to buy a set of Falken Azenis RT-215 205/50/15 for track/autoX/club-run duties.

Lowering the car will increase your jarring ride. Build your sports car, buy a Maxima for comfort.

Ron, I thought they were Rikens with Enkei caps. Hard to tell though, So many manufacturers for meshies. But after seeing this... From Eric's zparts.com Enkei 92's Rikens?

I remember seeing this car when it was for sale. I must admit, even though it's not my style, the top sets the car apart from the rest.

Ok, help ole Vic out on a decision. April is approching and we all know you clean and primp and get her ready for the big show (MSA). On the other hand, Mid April, is the "7th Annual No Frills Iron Bottom Motoring Tour" and I'm getting some pressure to run. What's not in run info is the fact that this is really an all out 1,000 mile run. My co driver has done this run 2 years now and has assured me that it will be brutal. So, what's more important, Beauty ... or... street cred?

Very cool Ron! Good for you! Is this the SCCA publication?

To heck with Betty boop. How bout my new avatar, Solex Suzy

Hey, I noticed they still offer the Outlaw II in 14X7 @0 4X4-1/2. Good looking wheel I always though. Got a friend-roadster-chick who's wearing these, even though 7'' wheels rub roadster fenders like hell, she wont give them up.

I media blasted original (?) body color off of 1972 hinges to reveal Zinc Dichromate (gold Cad) So my guess is ... Both

Gabriel has been very active on the club4ag forum as well and the Toyota crowd has nothing but good to say about him. Alot of you are hot for the Wats. What's the difference except the lack of 3 swans and the additional $1,600 in your pocket? Go for it. I would have if the 15's were out when I was shopping. Maybe that's a plus. As I still have light wheels that look different than most. Look into my crystal ball.... I see many a rewind fitted z in the near future.

I suggest 2 20 pound ABC dry extinguishers, 1 on either side of the area. By entries and exits especially.