Victor Laury

You'll make it Bill. That is, as long as you keep her a girlfriend and NOT a 16, 17, 18, 19 or even 20 year old Mother! If that should happen, and don't let it, you can forget about ANY other expensive hobbies!

I've got a small fortune in polishing equipment. After polishing a few wheels, my proccedure is as follows. Take the wheels off Take the wheel to a pro wheel polisher Give him 125.00 to do the job

Geez Vicky, Just saw your gallery. Maybe a bit of a red fetish?

But it's not a fair comparision. They put two 4 clyinder, 2liter, 100HP touring cars against a 150 horse Six, with half again more torque? True, the cars weigh about the same and in the same price bracket, but the Z had way more engine than both the Alfa and front engined Porsche. Try it again aginst a 914-6!

Ed, I just read the specs on Glisten PC, and it sounds like the toughest clear coat ever made!

By the way, Your numbers point to a 4.38 rear or even lower! FS5C71A (standard gearset), 4.38 rear, 195/60/14 tires RPM 4000 1st 21.4 2nd 34.0 3rd 48.2 4th 63.2 5th 74.2

Rob, PM me with your Email and I'll send you my Excel based TransCalc spread sheet. I have models of each transmission, including the FS5C71A, installed in the European/JDM/Aussie markets

As mr. Blue Z suggests, Buy the tape. I've been recommending that tape to all the roadster/Z folks who ask me to tweak their carbs. I tell them "It may get boring", You may fall asleep", "but rewind the parts you missed", "watch it twice, or three times, or the day before each tune up". Obviously, the production values are low, BUT, the info is dead-on, the best tool for SU tuning. Victor's blatant product endorsment ends here.

Bill, I'm happy with the engine. The suspension is as sporty hard as I would want. If I had the cash, I'd fix all the little body issues and pay the big bucks for a REAL paint job, one that looks perfect even closer than 10 feet away!

Kats, You are correct Sir! My 1970 SRL roadster also has the round head screws on the hose clamps. Your manufactured screws look correct, with the right shape head (pan head?). Now, to be ABSOLUTLY perfect, you need to get them replated zinc dichromate, along with the clamp bands. I've been gathering these clamps up for some time, in preparation for replating, as I want complete sets for my Z, SRL and 521 pickup <latest project. Thank you for sharing you efforts.

Texas

It was my understanding, (please correct me) that because of rather stiff displacement based taxes, Nissan offered their home market customers 2 liter Z's. Such as the L20a for the S30 models, a VG20E and RB20DE for the Z31's and even a VG20DE in the Z32's. These were offer in the lower trim-level Fairladies. Once again, my info is sketchy, based on internet searches and second hand conversations.

Thanks ben for the good idea! Yea, before I discovered this site, I had the clock, but not the box that makes it work!

Dam! dam,dam, dam I would pay well over 125 for just the rally clock oscillator box (the little box connected to the clock) Shoot! I've been looking for that for a while. It must have been a short auction.

Iam wearing the the Sumitomo HTRZ's on my roadster. They are sticky. If I get into an oversteer situation and work my way throught it, They hop hard instead of give way, sort of bang,bang,bang in quick succession. Before that, I had my Victo's on full time. I was warned by a freind, Gordon Glasgow, that race tires on the weekend warrior may not be a good thing. His BFG R-1's on his 510, ended up cracking across the face, well before wearing out. Of course, I'm too smart to listen. That is, untill the Victo's cracked arcoss the face, well before wearing out! But, It was very cool. besides the grip, there's the coolness factor of people tell you, "Hey! your tires are worn bald!" To which you reply, "I know. I paid extra for that!" Oh, most of the DOT race tires have a VERY stiff inner sidewall that transfers the bump of every pothole and divit straight to your arse! To some that might be pleasnt. I didn't car for it much. If your just going to drive across town (or 100 miles) to the AutoX event. leaving your Victoracers on is good idea. Beats changing tires at the track!

I looked at them - you silly kid! And I thought, "Wasn't this what he was doing last time he crashed his car?" and, "Drifting on snow... isn't that cheating?" Mostly, I laughed, up roarously, thinking, "Look at this kid terrorize his neighborhood!", "If I did this, they'd take me away in a straight jacket!" and "God! It must be great being young!"

Dude! you must be confusing me with someone trying to steal your Pik-a-nik basket. Come on Carl, i mean booboobudy, I wasn't trying to sound like a know it all. and if I ever do, I expect to get called on it. What happen? Ranger Smith come down on your racket?

All engines need Crankcase ventilation. It's more a "performance thing" and not a "smog thing" at all. What is done with the gases it ventilates IS a "smog thing". I suggest you retain all ventilation features. It's your choice what you hook it up to. In the Bad Ol Days, the crankcase breather was connected to a "draft tube" that just spilled out under the car. The end of the tube was cut at a slant, to create a slight vacuum at speed. This system had a side benefit, as your rings wore, you'd get a free undercarriage lube/rustproffing. Needless to say, the draft tube is NOT eco-friendly! Our racers and some of our street machines, hook the block breather up to a "puke can" to keep blowby oil off the track, which the other racers frown upon . If your engine is healthy, keeping the PCV system is a good thing. a little negative crankcase pressure helps overall performance and ring sealing.

Steve, If our dear Chloe, doesn't have it, I can bring one up when I see you at Solvang?

How about this,,, I stand by the fence, on Griffith Street, and you pass the tasty parts over the fence....

True Bill! We got a mix of parts. I believe, if we broke it down to serial numbers, we'd still would not find a clear delinelation point. My last Z was most likely in the same group on the assembly line, yet it was built with the 72 console and the short pig tailed fuse box.

The price is right, but they're HEAVY! you could get a much lighter wheel in alum, or even steel, for 3 times more cash. These would look perfect on a mid 80's Buick turbo coupe.

Bill, when looking for this part, be sure to specify late 71 or early 71. As the later, mid year 71 cars had the 72 style console with the ash tray behind the shifter