Victor Laury

1. the screw that's on the balance tube (I pretty sure this is the fast idle screw) Right. It's really there only to help set the throttle-on balance by raising the rpm's 2. One screw on the center linkage just to the right of the front carb (attaches to the dashpot) Mine is missing, so is the dashpot. This is to adjust the dashpot idle speed. I think you should do your intial balance adjustments with this loose as well. 3. One screw on the center linkage just to the left of the rear carb. Yes! this one ties the two carbs together. Loosen complely for idle balance and speed adjustments and adjust for throttle-on balance adjustments.

The center screw on the "dogbone" center linkage, is the throttle-on balance adjustment. Go back a step Loosen the center linkage screw completely, which will separate the carbs at idle and rebalance at idle. then, raise the rpm to abou 1800 or so using the screw on the balance tube. then balance the carbs again using the center screw on the center linkage. If you had tried to idle balance the carbs without loosening the center linkage screw, you'll get a false balance that goes to heck with the throttle on.

ROFL ZRush is "into red" Gee I never would have guessedLOL

Plese Note! This is not my car! It's just an ad I found. If it was mine, it would not be for sale the car is 95% restored, all the interior is done ( brand new), Has new paint job ,Brand new bumper bars ,New wheels and tyres ,Back half roll cage ,Stainless steel extractors, Twin exhaust ,Has an l28 bored out to a 3tlre, ,Triple miksui 50ml carbies ( same as webbers) ,And has one almighty rocket ship of motor, Improved suspension ,Sports steering wheel, Electric windows This car screams to 7 grand in every gear. There is no rust in the car at all The 5% that needs doing at a later stage is re chroming of the rear taillights. Which are not rusty just 30 years old and the fuel cap key holder. As I told you I am asking $22,000us firm This is a gtR spec car and would suit any collector and this car would have to be Pumping out 300 + hp, this car sounds unbelievable Web link: http://melbccr.com/rwdturbo/Images/ndsoc/concourse2003/imagepages/image113.html Contact: ron libbis Phone: 03 98418499 E-Mail: ronlibbisREMOVETHIS@tpg.com.au Location: melbourne australia Date posted: Fri Dec 12 18:46:20 2003

That looks sweeeeeet!

There are quite a few blue ones in our gallery, most are on 260Z's That sky-blue IS a Nissan color for air cleaners on all cars except sports cars. My 320 pickup - sky blue 210, 310, 410, 411 RL411 (SSS), 510 Bluebirds - Sky blue Roadsters all - Chinese Lantern Red But the Z's are orange (ecept the blue ones) I'm willing to bet cash dineros that the JDM, base model Z's with the single Hitachi downdraft carbs had sky blue as well. Ifr anyone is interested, that Sky-blue is dead on the same as early Pontiac blue engine color, availible at most Auto Parts stores.

My 72 HAD this feature untill the 5 speed upgrade. I would have kept it IF the 5 speed had a fitting for the "In Gear" switch like the 4 speed had. I must admit, I wore my belts habitually when the buzzer worked and Less often now that the system is disabled. :stupid: I can't remeber where the buzzer was located, But it also operated a light on the console fusebox cover, next to the "Choke On" lamp. But it operated exactly like Jeff descibes, It buzzed only while the transmission was in gear and the drivers seat belt unlatched.

Frank, I ran my headlight power though an auxillary harness controled by 2 Bosch/Hella 30 amp relays. Used nice, fat 10 gauge wire to run power, from the starter + post, with fusibles links, through the relays and to the lights. I'm making up these harnesses and will have the first batch ready to offer in the next three months.

I will install my restored dash. It's spent enough time on my couch.

My remote stater button doesn't have the battery clamp wires separated enough to hook to the starter and the battery post. And I like it that way as stays less tangled. I connect to the spade and the big positive post on the solinoid. Remote Starter = Number 1, best tool ever for valve adjustments!

The one I have downstairs does not have those dents. The support for the rack is an even, smooth arc. This was off my now dearly departed 71? 72? HLS30 48255

Got to agree with Carl on this one... Given the US imposed emmission control goals at the time and the state of the art in IC emission control, can anyone remember of any auto manufacturer that did not harm performance attempting to achive them? Think of all the SUCKY (technical term) cars of the 70's. even the venerable Chevy SB was a lame horse intill the early 80's where the technology BEGAN to catch up.

Whoa, I guess I needed one and never knew it!

It has been speculated, on this forum that the "Tuna cans" or "Flattops" or Hitachi's or whatever pet name you may choose, can perform as good as the "round tops" IF you can(?) tune them perfectly. Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I'm not looking to trade my 72 3 screws for a set of the tuna cans. We do have a recognized authority who concur with the "Boat Anchors" label. See ZTherapy.com Their definition is "Evil square mouthed carbs"

Sounds like your settled that you have a FS5C71B from a "pre T-5" turbo ZX. If you'd like to be sure of which gear set you have, I have a test for you to perform. If your tranny is out of the car, you can determine the overdrive ratio and ID the gear set with that ratio. 1st you need a guide Marc Sayer's tech tip on trannies is the first one I found today, there is others online as well. Now remmeber overdrive means the output shaft moves a greater distance than the input shaft. When I did this test, I marked both input and output shafts straight up. I turned my output shaft one complete rotation. My input shaft rotated .773 of one rotatation (as a clock, the big hand a touch after 9 o'clock). As you can see on Marc's chart, this indicates I bought a 1980 ZX transmission, and now I know all my ratios. 1977~79Z&XZ = .864 = almost 11:00 oclock 1980XZ = .773 = a little after 9:00 oclock 81~83ZX = .745 = a little after 8:00 oclock

It's going to need it to haul all that power windows, locks, seats, mirror, autosuck, sunroof hardware around!

I had mine lightened by Top End Performance I chose them because thev'e done so many, I'm sure they know how much and where to remove the material. I can't really tell you if it's made a difference in my car's performance. It sure didn't hurt it's driveability.

Bill, you actually have an intersting Z car. HLS30 50735, Built in October of 1971, is one of the last 1971's produced. there was only 848 more produced to the 1972 cars. At that time, Nissan was way behind in production. Americans were paying a premium for the right to buy a car that wasn't even built yet. Because of this. Your car will have many features in common with the 1972 model year. I owned a very similar car, HLS30 48255. Mine rolled off the line 2,480 cars ahead of yours. It had some the fittings of a 1972 model year and some from 1971. For instance, the body had the pockets for retractable seat belts, but was fitted with 1971 non-retracting belts. We have had many a discussion here about these transistional models on this forum. You'll have lots of interesting things to discover as you learn about your car.

Good job on that intake manifold. Since that's a normaly rough casting, it took quite a bit of flatening work to bring that up to par! Short cut - you can "get a away" without sanding on well finished pieces, by using a sisal buff (very rough) with emery compound (very aggressive), first, before moving to the tripoli. 1st step - emery compound on sisal - hard pressure, move piece against buff rotation (cutting motion) 2nd step - Clean all the emery compound off! 3rd step - Tripoli compound on spiral buff - hard pressure, cutting motion. The work will get very hot during this step! 4th step - Clean again! It's very important not to contaminate your next step, the coloring. 5th step - white rouge on loose flannel or single stitch pillow buff medium pressure, moving piece with buff rotation (color motion) This short cut works pretty well on clean work. It will not take out pits, or deep imperfections. Nothing beats staged sanding. On semi finished cast pieces (like Dave's intake manifold) there's no short cuts (right Dave?). If you want to polish your carb domes, BE VERY CAREFULL! you must cut back on the pressure and buff time, as the heat will pull them out-of-round (not good). Always be very carefull around the edges of the piece and the buff. At 3,000 RPM, if you catch an edge on the buff, it WILL tear the work out of your hands and likely take a piece of you with it!

That does sound like a VERY reasonable price! I hope to see the car brought back from hell. Did your "before" photos help with the insurance claim?

I may get some flack for this but... I always loved the 120Y/B210 Having said that... Is this 140Z varient legit? an L-14 instead of the pushrod A-14? That "140Z" rear trim emblem looks real. I don't really doubt it, as Nissan has a long history of special, low production models.