Victor Laury

You can't beat having a search box in the galleries! I did a search for 77, 76, 75, 1977, 1976, 1975, 280Z and interior. Cruising the galleries, you can't help finding it remarkable how many beautiful cars it contains. in Mdyer's 1977 280, you can see the corner of a black armrest Cuong Nguyen's 1977 260Z the armrest is matching lance75_280z 1975 280Z has black armrests in his Brown interior Trys_Hard posted this cream interior with black armrests sparkynacho posted this brown with matching And here's another, posted by grhens v12horse's car is a 260Z but, it has contrasting pieces like the early models

Shannon, A lot of us have done it. It's not a walk in the park, But it's good goal. It is a "merit badge" of Z ownership job. Own a Z? Drive it like a sports car? You will need a new clutch sooner or later. Have a shop do it? you'll miss out. If you decide to do it, You'll get lots of help here.

And I thought I was the only one! I dropped the diff mount crossmember.

Carl and Allen, The bottom one in Allen's photo (The Red one), Looks like the rear bar I installed (via Drilling) on my car.

Meanwhile, We got truck motor, long stroke KA24's. I like the kit! Not a Slieghty, a Zatey, in our case, a 240ZSX? Zorty? SXZ (pronounced sexy)? < if I had one, it would be a SXZ! Woo Hooo! I already know a car ready for this conversion I could get for a song!

In that case Rod, youv'e found the right place to hang out, learn, and keep ears up for THE Z car!

Never fails me, I use the clutch alignment tool for this operation. Pack the the area behind the pilot bush full of grease. Pack as much as you can get in there. grease the snout of the alignment tool. You can do this with a plastic tool, no worries, you don't even have to hit it too hard. As a matter of fact, you don't even need the hammer, just smack the tool with the heel of your hand. The bush WILL move.

I guess the ole joke - "Genuine Naga Leather" "from only the best hides of the Naga beast" is too used up to mention here.

Wasn't there another configuration to get a larger displacement and a "square jug" (Bore = stroke)? I can't recollect - a L24 crank in a L28 block for a destroked L26? Or something like that?

Ha! It's got no driver side rocker - eaten bare off gone - MIA!

A De-bumpered 260 or 280. Nice AR Libra wheel set is almost worth the asking price. At 800.00, unless it's a complete basket case, why not, could be fun.

Understeer - push - pushing - the tendency for the front wheels to slide in cornering. Extreme - you turn into the chicane and the car doesn't. Oversteer - Loose - in a race with my arse - The tendency for the rear wheels to slide in cornering. Extreme - you turn into the chicane and come out backwards. All cars can do both, but some car configurations will cause one to be more prevalent than the other. The driver can control one by inducing the other. Or, the real trick (art) is to drive the problem child Neutral.

Ooohh! How bout a project photo-documentary?

Gary, Your photos are now up. I can't understand why you would sell either one of those beauties. New Project?

Both the car and that excellent photo are keepers

What is up with this elephant oil cap. I see them on ebay, being touted as if they were they holy grail. What's the story on these? did they only come on a particular year? Or are they a non North American market item? I have one in my spare parts collection. Should I shine it up and put it on? Right now, I have one of the super-rare 710 caps on my car. It's neat. If you look at it up-side-down, it says "OIL" isn't that cool?

Check the tightness of the bolts of the right axle, were it connects to the stub axle flange.

Yea it's not too bad of a job, but I cheated by having a buddy with an Auto shop with a lift I could borrow! Disconnect the Battery Remove the starter Remove the console, body boot and shifter Break and loosen (don't remove) the top bolts on the bell housing Raise the lift Drain the 4 speed throughly. Release the exhaust pipe attachments to the point where you can pull it out of your way or drop it completely. Release the driveshaft and the rear yoke and remove it. --Excelent opertunity to replace the diff mount-- Remove the clutch cylinder. Prepare a lift stand/jack stand with 2X4 wood pad for rear of oil pan. if you can, adjust the stand to accept some of the weight now, if not, get it as close as possible. Remove the transmission crossmember. If you got the jack stad close enough, the weight will be supported before the bolts are all the way out. Remove the speedo cable, reverse light wires and the idle switch wires. (there was no provission of the idle swith on my 5 speed. no big deal, my seat belt buzzer no longer works.) Loosen the remaining bell housing bolts, remove them all, except for the lower left bolt, which should be loose to the last 2 turns. Smack the tailshaft with a plastic hammer to break the adheasions between the bell housing and block plate. Pull back and lower the tranny (watch out there's still some fluid in it, that will pour from the tailshaft! if you have a spare tailshaft you can use it as a plug). Swap the four speed fork to the new tranny. New throw-out bearing is very recommened! Swap the speedo gear drive. New clutch components are very recommended at this point! New tail shaft seal is recommended. Reinstall in reverse order. 3 1/2 hours

I bought mine from MSA, Should be the same from 70 - 83 - All L-6 Since the Dizzy never changed positions.

Love my hand throttle on my 70 SRL Roadster. Use it to stretch my foot on long drives. I don't rely on it as a "Cruise Control" for very long though!

Yes to both accounts. Although that's and unusuall AC box. I first saw the pigtail cover on Les Canaday's 71 and had the same question. He told me it was an orginal item but rare these days.

Yes It would be great, but we (the North American Market) didn't get that box. Now, if you guys Downunder would send us your spares....

I often wondered if it would cost more to ship parts from the U.S. than truck them over the central desert of Australia! It must be costly to get parts in Perth. But at least there you all can afford opal inlaid gauges. right?

I don't see why they should be willing to tell you. After all, researching the proper fittment spec, making a special order of a wheel, not normally produced, in numbers great enough to get the cost down, to offer to the public, who then goes and buys it somewhere else....Man I'm glad I'm not in retail!