Victor Laury

Thanks Enrique! I'll check this out when I get home (roadstering this week). I may buy a replacement flasher arbitrarly (just in case) on my way home. I've been through the wiring so much that I'm leaning toward the flasher.

Ya, That tape is pretty dam good stuff. A little disjointed at times, where he forgot to mention something and had to back-track. Have paitence, watch over, I know it's long. If you fall asleep during one part, it's very much to your benefit to watch that section over again. If you own a Z, 510 or Roadster, it's a "must watch"

Whew! Steven the purist! :classic: . Ya know here in socal we get the opertunity to see a lot of Z's I see quite a few unloved 240's~280"s. Even more unloved s130's and Z31's. BUT, there's the rare occurances where a perfect, well maintained, obviously doted-on 82 S130 pulls up next to me to give me the big "Nice Z!" Thumbs up. From that point on, that person is a Z driver, fan, and all around cool dude. Z owenership is in the spirt, not the model.

Alan, I had a set of painted hood hinges plastic media blasted and they were zinc chromated (gold Passivated?) under the paint. What I cannot tell you is if they were painted when they were on the line in Yokohama as the car had been repainted the same color. My guess is that they shot them in japan as I've seen a few original, unrestored cars and they are painted body color. I kept mine in Zinc cause I must have a fetish about that color. I want a splash pan! why did Nissan cheap us out?

Your photos are up. That's 918 orange? I thought it was persimmons. Must be the lighting.

Thanks Chloe, It's a brand new 60 watt unit and a new VR. The old Alt wasn't the problem as I changed it and nothing changed. And, as for VR's I've got at least six here (2 brand new) and I've tried them all. BTW The emblems got here. I'm polishing the car with my new DeWalt polisher. The new emblems will look good on a polished, glazed, carnuba-waxed Z!

I've been trying to solve this problem myself, with no success. My turn signals really draw the juice! the amp meter swings crazy when I signal to turn. The dash lights, the "choke on" light (which is on all the time. another problem) and heater fan dims/slows in beat with the flashes. I have checked grounds, removed the steering collunm shrowd to check connections and renewed the fuses and cleaned fuse terminals. Any hints?

At work we use large "shaker beds" filled with ceramic "Fingers". Does a great job. New hardware is my first choice as the plating is intact. All the methods mentioned remove the zinc and these cleaned pieces will rust doubly quick. But, new is NOT cheap! I just bought a bunches of Nissan Hardware, especially the 6mm bolts (with the phillip's X on a 10 mm hex) that is used so much all over the car. A paid a grip. But at least I have a hobby!

My question is the same as Andrew's "What's this Tonneau cover thingy?" I got one for my Roadster, But I'm willing to bet that it's not the same thing!

Andrew beat me to it. Mark! That car jut a little on the shiny side:love:

I'd say, you can't go wrong with the new needles and nozzles from ZT. Even if it doesn't cure your present puzzle, the cars respond to the ZT "SM" needle nicely.

I just did a relay upgrade. I did not follow pete's plan cause I didn't want to cut into the harness. Instead, I made an auxillary harness from the starter hot to the relays, then plugs into the headlight connectors near the horns. for the signal, It plugs into the connector that was hooked to the right headlight. I wanted it to 100% reversable back to stock, and it is. I don't have any problems, well, except the problems that were there before the upgrade. My blinkers still pull too much juice for some reason. The headlights still dim at idle but not nearly as much and are brighter overall.

I want to hit the lottery. I want to be young, handsome, rich, and healthy. Anybody find a rust free 70 ~ 73 bare assed shell for under $2,000, I'm buying.

That sounds pure 72 ish. Just like mine, with the exception of the E31. that should be a good as gold set up.

Vacuum leaks? Hows your throttle shafts? I can't beleive the air cleaner theory, is it the stock air cleaner for the carbs? (round top carbs and 70~72 cleaner or flattops with the triangle port cleaner) . Nissan did a lot of engineering on those cleaner air horns and they are about as good as they come.

I'm sure Alan would dissapprove of this program as it's very U.S. Market-centric.

You do not turn the 14 mm first. You turn the 17 mm lock first while holding the 14mm. After the 17mm lock nut is loosened, the 14mm turns without resistance. If the 14 is rounded off, it's because sombody forgot this during a valve adjustment. Think of it as a 14 stud that srews into the head. On it is the 17mm lock nut. the lock tightens down on the head surface to lock the stud in place.

Maybe your cam is advanced 1 tooth?

Steve, I've been following your strut epic with dismay. How can this be? I bought my Tokico blues about 2 years ago and I love them. Does your trials mean I'll never be able to replace them? I know that you have communicated your woes to Tokico and they really haven't solved your problem. To me, those short struts are unacceptable. I think you might try Tokico 1 more time, and let them know this one fact, THE WHOLE WORLD IS WATCHING. Speaking for me, If they mess with with Steve, they've lost my buisness. In this connected community, Vendors take notice, customer service IS good buisness, a the lack of it, is certain ruin.

There are several mechanical advance curves. which one your car has is dependant on several factors. Where was it's market? Which Transmission? What year? Was the dizzy swapped at some time? The only way to be sure is to lift the breaker plate and look at the stamping on the advance cam (flat rectangular plate with 2 slots the advance weight ride in) The number stamped on that plate is the distributor advance. Multiply that by 2 and you get the crank advance. So if you have a 7.5 distributor, you have 15 degrees crank. Set the your initial timing at 18 and you've got 33 total advance (pretty safe at normal compression and pump gas) If you have an 11 dizzy, you have 22 degrees at the crank, set that at 18 and it I'll rattle itself to death, quickly. If you can't run more the 7 degrees initial, you probably have a 13.5 dizzy (U.S. Smog equipped). Which one is best? That can be argued. My preference is the lower mechanical advance numbers of the "Euro Distributor" as marketed to the U.S. When I had my EI dizzy built, I had Gary set it up with a 7.5 advance. Sot I time 17 for regular and just a hair under 20 for premium. If my compression was enhanced, I'd have to lower those, or run race gas and run a high overlap cam. Nissan, in it's smogging wisdom, equipped the U.S. Market Roadster ( a sports car!) with the worst possible dizzy, a 17.5! You had to time that at TDC! Absolutely the lousiest idle and low-end performance ever. That's ok, cause we all fixed that with the pre smog 7.5 dizzy!

Isn't that the FJ24 (stroked FJ20) powered S110 sylvia/gazelle circa 1983-84? Wish they had a photo. Not that I'm shipping cars from the mid east. No engine? where would you find an FJ24 to restore the dam thing?

Color info is not in the VIN# Here's the test- Is the engine compartment white? Is the interior vinyl red? Is the interior (under the carpets, in the spare tire well) white? yes's mean your car was 904 white when it roll of the line in Yokohama. You may find the remmants of the paint code sticker on the passenger side of the radiator support. Replacing the shifter bushings will be a great "getting to know you" job for you and dad. Use the search box on this site with "Shifter bushings" and you'll get more info than i could type in a week. Chasing clunks will be your goal. U joints, trans mount, diff mount are all canidates. Join a local club, get to know your nearest Z fanatic. We're not like porsche collectors, We help each other out.

I've run Red Line MTL in 6(?) Nissan gear boxes without complaint.

Originally, I cut the the air injector tubes, which led into the exhaust manifold, with a pair of diagonal cutters (dikes). Then I folded and crimped the tubes. This worked, but I still wasn't happy aestetically, with the rusty exhaust manifold. Installing a Jet-Hot coated MSA 6-1 header finished the job, removing all traces that the AIR system ever existed. Got to remember to take a photo from the other side!