Victor Laury

Larry, MSA sell those exact caps. Get some S.S. screws at the hardware store and your show ready. The Caps have a little molding bump in the center, so it's best to get the stick-on "Z" or "Datsun" emblems for them.

No Keith, That's the Cheap arse respray the P.O. did (may he rot in hell). oy! OY! you should see when I took off the bumpers! OY VEY GAVAULT! what a mess! That's why I get a kick when someone describes my car as "Clean". Heaven forbid they should look closer! If I go fast enough, the car looks perfect!

It's a comb set of the DeWalt polishing machine, a velcro backing disc, a wool bonnet, 2 foam bonnets and the "system 1 polish". Basicaly, the polish uses the different cutting action carectaristics of the bonnets for the buff and polish. The wool is more aggresive, so it's the first step to cut down the scratches. Then the foam is more gentle and used for the polish stage. I could have done a better job, as I was too freaked about cutting too far. But carefull is better than cutting down to primer anyday!

Had to share.... I bought the System One Paint poishing kit from eastwood. Here's the result..

When did American Racing Libras come out? Were they a early seventys wheel or later? I don't remmeber Minilights being popular in the states untill 77ish. The roadsters wore a spoked Empi wheel in the late 60's This photo of Bob Sharp's Car at Mid Ohio 1974 looks like Watanabe's to me. http://racingsportscars.t35.com:8000/photo/1974/Mid-Ohio-1974-06-30-033.jpg

Kats, Don't worry about the press photos, My 1970 SRL311 (built August 1969) came from Yokohama with Bridgestone Skyway-H's. So Nissan Must have been buying these tires when they built our cars.

Have the model in your Icon rub up against me .... Oops.... I mean the wheels and they'll shine. No. Wait. Have her rub up against me and I'll pay to get your wheels polished. Seriously. Take you wheels to a wheel polishing shop. Best 125.00 I ever spent. I polish aluminum, but wheels are so awkward, that the only way to do them right is on a machine built of the purpose. My wheel shop dismounts the tire and mounts the rims on a turntable platform. This platform is brought to the polishing wheel a manipulated through the process by a few levers. Then the tires are remounted and balance on perfect wheels.

No, because it's more than an overflow, It's the bowl vent. Since the carb work on gravity feed the float bowl needs a vent. Otherwise you'd run lean when the flloat needles are operating nomally

Thanks Enrique! I'll check this out when I get home (roadstering this week). I may buy a replacement flasher arbitrarly (just in case) on my way home. I've been through the wiring so much that I'm leaning toward the flasher.

Ya, That tape is pretty dam good stuff. A little disjointed at times, where he forgot to mention something and had to back-track. Have paitence, watch over, I know it's long. If you fall asleep during one part, it's very much to your benefit to watch that section over again. If you own a Z, 510 or Roadster, it's a "must watch"

Whew! Steven the purist! :classic: . Ya know here in socal we get the opertunity to see a lot of Z's I see quite a few unloved 240's~280"s. Even more unloved s130's and Z31's. BUT, there's the rare occurances where a perfect, well maintained, obviously doted-on 82 S130 pulls up next to me to give me the big "Nice Z!" Thumbs up. From that point on, that person is a Z driver, fan, and all around cool dude. Z owenership is in the spirt, not the model.

Alan, I had a set of painted hood hinges plastic media blasted and they were zinc chromated (gold Passivated?) under the paint. What I cannot tell you is if they were painted when they were on the line in Yokohama as the car had been repainted the same color. My guess is that they shot them in japan as I've seen a few original, unrestored cars and they are painted body color. I kept mine in Zinc cause I must have a fetish about that color. I want a splash pan! why did Nissan cheap us out?

Your photos are up. That's 918 orange? I thought it was persimmons. Must be the lighting.

Thanks Chloe, It's a brand new 60 watt unit and a new VR. The old Alt wasn't the problem as I changed it and nothing changed. And, as for VR's I've got at least six here (2 brand new) and I've tried them all. BTW The emblems got here. I'm polishing the car with my new DeWalt polisher. The new emblems will look good on a polished, glazed, carnuba-waxed Z!

I've been trying to solve this problem myself, with no success. My turn signals really draw the juice! the amp meter swings crazy when I signal to turn. The dash lights, the "choke on" light (which is on all the time. another problem) and heater fan dims/slows in beat with the flashes. I have checked grounds, removed the steering collunm shrowd to check connections and renewed the fuses and cleaned fuse terminals. Any hints?

At work we use large "shaker beds" filled with ceramic "Fingers". Does a great job. New hardware is my first choice as the plating is intact. All the methods mentioned remove the zinc and these cleaned pieces will rust doubly quick. But, new is NOT cheap! I just bought a bunches of Nissan Hardware, especially the 6mm bolts (with the phillip's X on a 10 mm hex) that is used so much all over the car. A paid a grip. But at least I have a hobby!

My question is the same as Andrew's "What's this Tonneau cover thingy?" I got one for my Roadster, But I'm willing to bet that it's not the same thing!

Andrew beat me to it. Mark! That car jut a little on the shiny side:love:

I'd say, you can't go wrong with the new needles and nozzles from ZT. Even if it doesn't cure your present puzzle, the cars respond to the ZT "SM" needle nicely.

I just did a relay upgrade. I did not follow pete's plan cause I didn't want to cut into the harness. Instead, I made an auxillary harness from the starter hot to the relays, then plugs into the headlight connectors near the horns. for the signal, It plugs into the connector that was hooked to the right headlight. I wanted it to 100% reversable back to stock, and it is. I don't have any problems, well, except the problems that were there before the upgrade. My blinkers still pull too much juice for some reason. The headlights still dim at idle but not nearly as much and are brighter overall.

I want to hit the lottery. I want to be young, handsome, rich, and healthy. Anybody find a rust free 70 ~ 73 bare assed shell for under $2,000, I'm buying.

That sounds pure 72 ish. Just like mine, with the exception of the E31. that should be a good as gold set up.