Victor Laury

The greeting art is O.K., But, I really liked the Tee Shirt! I was going to buy one before it was pulled.

Turn Faster

Garret, I don't know how your site escaped me up to now. Good read good photos, Good dam job! Inline6's site

Yep, the inner fenders had to go to make room for the turbo plumbing.

Ron Hamilton of Arizona is a well respected pioneer of high-powered engine swaps for Datsun Roadsters. I've always considered his RCKSHP, a 1967 roadster with a Turbo charged FJ-20, his flagship. I have rode in the passenger seat, and the impressions of my finger tips are probly still there, under the seat, where I was hanging on for dear life through one of Ron's "Power Runs". If anyone is interested in a 300hp Datsun Roadster, it's being advertised on the CDM cars for sale page. Or click here

That's a pretty good write up. I have the 79-83 N/A ZX dizzy on my 72. I did not have the Tach problem, But others with the SAME set up, do. I must admit, it a big improvement! Cold start, and top end performance.

The Village Idiot asks good questions. 1 & 2) I'd say that your observations confirm you need to clean the tank! 3 & 4 & 5) the sending unit is not hard to remove and replace, especially while the tank is out. I would not expose the sending unit to anything other than gas, which is nasty enough! I'd stay away from acid treatment altogether, as I belive it will cause you more grief in the future. This is one of those tasks you really don't want to do twice. I know everytime someone asked about tanks, I suggest Tank Renu service. You guys might think they pay me or something. Nope. They impressed me with their warrenty. With service like that, It's worth a little more for a gas tank for life.

M 2 cents follow Heaters are worth the hassle. Heaters are worth the clutter. I think even race cars should keep the heater/demister. It's less of a car without one. Even here in sunny California, You leave to get to the car show early in the morning. That heater may not be needed later in the afternoon, but now it makes driving comfortable. Have you seen my engine compartment? I hate clutter/Love simplicity. I make sure the heater fits into that plan.

Too cool! Except, on the Arabic one, they made the rear quarter panel look too much like a Triumph GT-6

Ok, see the photo? The top wrench is a 14 mm. it's on the "Stud", witch is threaded into the head and it's height sets the pivot point for the follower. The lower wrench (17mm) is on the "Lock" witch jams the stud in place. To adjust, loosen the lock, whilst holding the stud still. Raise or lower the stud to set the clearance between the heel (base circle of the cam and the lash of the follower. Oh, and remove the guide spring on the follower before trying to adjust, as it gets in the way. Needle-Nose pliers does good job at this. (Be sure to put them back when your done!) Now, here's the trick. As you tighten the lock back down, you'll inadvertently close the gap a little. Learning how to "Feel" the Feeler gauge is beyond my wordsmith skill to describe. Second problem is, as the engine cools the adjustment changes. If you start with a hot motor, the first few valves end up being far different to the last few you set. I've developed the habit to adjust the valves twice. Once through, then, bring the motor back up to temp, then adjust again in reverse order.

Wait, I just saw a 200B on the OZDAT pages that looks just like the car I'm speaking about 200B sss

I did some research this morning and it looks like the U.S. 810 is a longer wheel base version of the 180B, equipped with the L24E instead of the the L18. There is a reference to the JDM only Bluebird U 2000GT. I must admit, Nissans of this vintage kind of blend together. Pretty dificult to grasp the bloodlines. From the photos of the Brit 180b's, the bumpers arn't much smaller.

I have an opertunity to buy a 78 810 Sports Coupe for little money. It's described as a 5 speed in very good body/paint/interior condition, metalic brown, that "Doesn't Run". Now the "Doesn't Run" Does not put me off. Certainly, I'll find just about all the engine parts from my Z vendors. Injectors the same? My target vehicle has been a 77, 78 620 King Cab, But, I remember this car well. In 78, my father considered buying one. I clearly recall see the engine in the showroom that day, the L24E, with all the zinc chromate parts, glittering like gold. If I buy this car, will I be able to find "more suitable" bumpers than the super-chunkey U.S. market ones, overseas? Were these cars sold overseas and as what, Laurels? I just can see me begging my buddy RatDat to send me some bumpers from England. Knowing him, he probibly has them! I think it would be cool to have a comforable, Air conditioned, soft ride, plenty o power this car offered, in the Classic Nissan mode of life. Thoughts?

Love this stuff, it's been in My Datsuns for the last 8 years. When I get a new (to me) Datsun, the first thing is new fluids, including MTL for the box and RedLine Shockproof for the diffy. Mobil 1, WIX filters and Castrol brake juice make it a complete set. I think, but not sure, that it's MTL (Manual Transmission Lightweight).

If they suggest the cooler BP®7ES, go for it. The "P" means "Projected tip" The "R" means "Resistor" The R doesnt change much, same plug, but with a resistor for noise suppesion. I never use them, just supersitious I guess. Don't know. Different Manufacures use different numbering systems. With NGK's the higher numbers are cooler. A hotter plug than BP®6ES would be BP®5ES NGK FAQ Page

HA! I heard these very words come from my mouth! When I installed the ZX (non T5) in my car, I paid no attention to the different clutch fork until time to hook it up. Attempts to drill that sucker distroyed 8 bits, including a brand new 1/4, which I thought would cut for a pilot hole (thought, right!) I ended up cutting the rod instead. In the future, this will give me very little adjustment. In the future, I'll pull the tranny. In the future, I'll be rich, handsome, healthy, smart and young.

I don't care what they told you, NAPA CARRIES NGK! NGK BP6ES is NAPA Part # NGK7333 @ $1.89 Also availible onlline at Napa Auto Parts

With the online ads listing so many ZX's for under 2,000. buy the whole car, part it out and recover your costs.

I took some photos last night. Here's the mounting for the bar, And heres the bar

If you strip out the car and deliver the bare shell to the bodyman, That should bring the cost down dramatically.