Victor Laury

Wait, I just saw a 200B on the OZDAT pages that looks just like the car I'm speaking about 200B sss

I did some research this morning and it looks like the U.S. 810 is a longer wheel base version of the 180B, equipped with the L24E instead of the the L18. There is a reference to the JDM only Bluebird U 2000GT. I must admit, Nissans of this vintage kind of blend together. Pretty dificult to grasp the bloodlines. From the photos of the Brit 180b's, the bumpers arn't much smaller.

I have an opertunity to buy a 78 810 Sports Coupe for little money. It's described as a 5 speed in very good body/paint/interior condition, metalic brown, that "Doesn't Run". Now the "Doesn't Run" Does not put me off. Certainly, I'll find just about all the engine parts from my Z vendors. Injectors the same? My target vehicle has been a 77, 78 620 King Cab, But, I remember this car well. In 78, my father considered buying one. I clearly recall see the engine in the showroom that day, the L24E, with all the zinc chromate parts, glittering like gold. If I buy this car, will I be able to find "more suitable" bumpers than the super-chunkey U.S. market ones, overseas? Were these cars sold overseas and as what, Laurels? I just can see me begging my buddy RatDat to send me some bumpers from England. Knowing him, he probibly has them! I think it would be cool to have a comforable, Air conditioned, soft ride, plenty o power this car offered, in the Classic Nissan mode of life. Thoughts?

It happens on our cars too. We don't reffer to them as the "Dreaded P.O.s" for nothing. Many times have I found myself completly befuddled, trying to decifer the age-old question "What the hell was this guy thinking when he did this?"

Love this stuff, it's been in My Datsuns for the last 8 years. When I get a new (to me) Datsun, the first thing is new fluids, including MTL for the box and RedLine Shockproof for the diffy. Mobil 1, WIX filters and Castrol brake juice make it a complete set. I think, but not sure, that it's MTL (Manual Transmission Lightweight).

If they suggest the cooler BP®7ES, go for it. The "P" means "Projected tip" The "R" means "Resistor" The R doesnt change much, same plug, but with a resistor for noise suppesion. I never use them, just supersitious I guess. Don't know. Different Manufacures use different numbering systems. With NGK's the higher numbers are cooler. A hotter plug than BP®6ES would be BP®5ES NGK FAQ Page

HA! I heard these very words come from my mouth! When I installed the ZX (non T5) in my car, I paid no attention to the different clutch fork until time to hook it up. Attempts to drill that sucker distroyed 8 bits, including a brand new 1/4, which I thought would cut for a pilot hole (thought, right!) I ended up cutting the rod instead. In the future, this will give me very little adjustment. In the future, I'll pull the tranny. In the future, I'll be rich, handsome, healthy, smart and young.

I don't care what they told you, NAPA CARRIES NGK! NGK BP6ES is NAPA Part # NGK7333 @ $1.89 Also availible onlline at Napa Auto Parts

With the online ads listing so many ZX's for under 2,000. buy the whole car, part it out and recover your costs.

I took some photos last night. Here's the mounting for the bar, And heres the bar

If you strip out the car and deliver the bare shell to the bodyman, That should bring the cost down dramatically.

I can recommend the MSA rear bar for the early car. It fit well on my 72. I did require the use of a lift to install it. I also changed the supplied hardware with beefier stuff. It's a bit of a hassle, but it's worth it. To install it you have to replicate the mounting points of the later cars. So, youv'e got to drill the floor. The bolts supplied were not long enough with out washers and I wanted BIG THICK washers to spread the load. I also bought "Nylock" nuts to get it all tight over the years. By the Way, as I recall, It looked very much like the one in your photo.

I trust MSA. Why? Their employee parking is Almost all Z cars! (there's a miata or 2) The guys at the counter are the same fellas running their Z at the AutoX's. They know "That part is NLA. But This later one works and looks almost the same". The aftermarket and accessories the sell actully fit. If they say "you'll get it in two days", I get it in 2 days. Theyv'e taken my returns, no hassles.

I don't know how numerous the boxes are overseas. Here in the states, they came only on the 2L roadster in two variants. They are visually Identified by their three piece design, a Flanged output shaft and the tubular shifter mount, where the shifter was retained bu rubber or aluminum bushes. From 1967.5 to 1969.5, are reffered to as Servo boxes. This is because they used Porshe style steel Servo syncros. the steel syncros are NLA from Nissan and no one made aftermarkets. From 1969.5 to 1970 they are called "Warner" boxes because they sported more conventional brass syncros. For both styles, gearsets, counters, mains and inputs are scarce to scant and $$$. Bearings can be found. (hopfully someone from overseas will chime in to say they have a source!) For the Euro, JDM and Aussie Markets, the box was used for the Z and, i believe the skylines to the 240K (correct me please). The Z was longer. Fitted with a longer main shaft and tail piece. They are very nice shifting boxes when in good condition and handle fast, power-on shifts well. The shift is a little ambiguos, somethimes earning them the nickname "Monkey-Motion" boxes. No matter, the fact remains that these were the preffered racing transmissions for Nissan cars untill Nissan came out with the Direct Drive boxes in the Late 70's. There worst habit is the dreaded "5th gear neutral". where the fith gear was interference fitted, breaks loose and just spins. A rarer form, the retainer holding the 5th gear assembly comes loose and the whole box comes apart! The 1969.5 "Warner" boxes used a Splined 5th gear carrier that eliminated the first problem, and, well the 2nd is just rare. Prices,,hum,,, I had my 70 roadster "Warner" box rebuilt (it had a bad counter bearing) for $350.00. It's a smooth M.F. now. I have an early Servo box downstairs with the 5th gear neutral and a SICK rough 1 to 2nd shift I've been meaning to have rebuilt. I'm estimating $600 to $800 to get that done, and that price is getting higher the longer I wait. I'd pay $250 any day of the week for an UNKNOWN roadster 5 speed, just for parts or core. Good, known condition ones are a rarer find. Of course, None of these work in a Z! You'd be buying them from overseas. The parts to convert a roadster to a Z are GONE from Nismo, never to return (bell housing, mainshaft, Tail peice and 2 peice driveshaft). SO If your Euro Z's box is BO, It would be Cheaper to drop in a ZX 5 speed and regular drive shaft. You'll loose bragging rights. You can send me the old stuff.

Jeff, It sounds good to me. The tranny is a bit of a problem, as parts for the long tailed "roadster" box are scarce and expensive.

I was researching this to answer a previous post. If your running the Nissan EI distributor, you have the opertunity to run a full 12 volt coil. Running the existing 6 volt unit with the balast resistor will not harm anything, but why bother? You no longer have points to protect from burning. Running the stock coil without the balast will burn it up quick. If you get the fat coil from the ZX, 210, 310, HL510, 200SX be sure to get the bracket as well. IT's too fat to fit the original. You can go to a speed shop and ask for a 12 coil, I bought a pretty Mallory one for my Roadster. Your old coil will ave a double tang connector on it. Take that off and use it to connect the wires that once hooked to the ballast resistor. The ZX dizzy could be setup with a better advance curve for the the carbed L-24 ~ L-28. The fella That set mine up for both my Z and Roadster has an info page. http://www.311s.org/tech/engine/eidizzy.html http://www.311s.org/tech/ignition/eidizzynew.html I endorse his work completely. Buy his package and you get it all, ready to install, with complete instructions and parts lists. Enjoy that big fat spark! you can even get away with opening your plug gap a little. Not only will you have better cold start but YOU WILL feel the difference throughout the power band.

You can't blame me.. I make Margaritas....GOOOOD! Bad day at work, good evening for a powerfull Tequila potable.

I had the same reaction as George, but I suspected it was the Margarita I've been sipping... "If it's such a stupid question, how come I don't get it?"

This is while the head is intalled at full torque, Install towers, don't tighten more than 1/4 the torque spec. install the cam with no followers and light oil. loosen the bolts on the last tower to "snug" strike the front of the cam with a plastic hammer. And tighten the bolts to 1/2 torque spec. Repeat on all the towers, striking the furthest end of the cam from the tower your setting. Then bring all the towers to full torque. Now here's the most important step. If the cam does not spin, Stop. There ar times when the head has been machined on the bottom side only. This results in a flat bottom but a curved top. A good machine shop will set it up right, and you won't bust a new cam (and bend valves and hole pistons and .. and ... ) If it does feel nice-nice, remove the cam and replace the light oil with the manufactures suggested build-lube.

Marty, This one sounds too nice to run into a wall as well... Guess you'll have to convice the war department that a 3rd Z car IS the smart way to go!

I was thinking that if I coated the labels with wax, i'd keep the Rit from dyeing them. Whatta Think?

Al, When I saw your first post about your troubles, I wanted to suggest . Gas Tank Renu service. But, when searching for a franchise in New York, I could only find 1 in Albany and 1 in Buffalo. Now, I don't know much about NY, but I know enough that those are a long haul from Long Island! Sorry