mrdatto

Try Warren at all zparts in Sydney. I bought my set off him about a year ago and they were much cheaper than Nissan for the factory ones.

Zworx in Melbourne will make them up for you. I got some from them last year $60 each. They do quite a bit of z fabrication/resto work.

That combo looks really good. Did you get the flares from Australia or overseas? Also, what sort of seats are they? I reckon one of the really small spoilers on the back would look good if you are going with a front one.

Should be fine, I've got 14's on the car while it sits in the garage and they go no problem. The discs are relatively small and so are the calipers, but better than the drums I think.

Thommo, I finished the 280zx rear disc conversion a month or so ago, which is the easiest and cheapest as far as I know. I mainly did this one because I had to re-do the drums anyway and they cost about the same. You only need the following Caliper Brackets : Nissan Part # 44155-04S10 (1980 Nissan Maxima) Calipers : 9/81 - 4/84 280ZX or R30 Skyline. Rotors : 9/81 - 4/84 280ZX or R30 Skyline: DBA Part # DBA600 Its all a bolt on really just taking all drum bits off including shields, but you do need to pull stub axle. Depending where you get the parts it can be a cheap swap. Also depends if you want more expensive rotors. Mine was around $400 i guess which is better than a whole new drum set up. There are other swaps or kits around but they are starting to get expensive or require some sort of mods via welding, drilling etc. The hard part to get may be the brackets which were available from Nissan not so long ago for $136 each. I got mine from US for $56 US each, but after shipping its not enough difference for the trouble really. The park brake bolts straight up but its not that flash so you may want a new one made, maybe one from a zx would be better but I havent got one of those to try. I've got pics if you want, but Warren (Woza01 I think)from WA Z cars gave me most of the inital info and seems a really good guy so you may want to try and chase him up. Anything else let me know via pm or email.

Zkid, Sorry if I missed it somewhere in your posts, but where did you get the floorpans from? I am going to go with All Z parts I think for $140 each side. Also, what engine are you planning?

Its fine, I wouldnt post that, but it hasnt been my car for about 5 years now. If anyone can track down and nick the car I owned 6 cars and five years ago from my user name on the web, best of luck to them. Just wanted to share an idea for anyone who may want to use it (secretly.)

In my 74 260z I had a valve (with a tap like switch on top) which interrupted the fuel line under the removable ashtray in the centre console. It would allow the car to start and I could get about 30 metres down the street before it started to sputter and I realised I forgot to switch it back again (electric pump at tank). It was prettygood, just felt like you were running out of fuel and I imagine most thieves would panic and leave the car at that point. Also had an ignition cut off in the glovebox.

Tyronne has the same car is on Ozdat too( I assume its the same one), which answers the question about whether its complete or not. Seems like it could be a good buy. Add reads.. Datsun 240z 1969 Complete car less some interior bits. suit restoration project. Very straight shell with very little rust. Comes with group 1 spoiler. Car Identification: 1969 240z Price: $3900 Location: bardon QLD http://www.ozdat.com/classifieds/index.html

Hi All, I need to remove the stub axle to put a maxima caliper bracket on for rear brake conversion. Can I take it out without out both bearings, oil seal, spacer etc all coming out as well? I had the bearings replaced by a shop about 3 months ago and it hasnt been driven since so the Stub axle should come out reasonably easy. Also, with the 280zx (r30 Skyline I think the same) calipers, can they be operated with just the park brake cable attached or do they also need hydraulic pressure? I just want to hook some sort of braking system up to ship the rolling shell. Thanks

Guys, You could also try www.adelaidezcars.com.au I have bought a few bits and pieces off of them. Can't promise but may be worth a try.

I can't vouch for it as I have never used it myself, but Super Cheap Auto sells a product called 'Sound Shield'. It comes in rolls/sheets of about 1.5m x 1m from memory and is the foil backed stuff with a thin layer of bitumen inside, which is supposedly excellent for both sound deadening and heat transfer. It's not cheap at about $40 a lot but a friend of mine has put it in his fully restored mini and said it seems good quality and is easy to work with. May be worth a look.

thehelix112, Which shock inserts did you use with the king springs? Any trouble with the travel being too much with the much shorter kings? Also, you got a photo of the back height, mine still sits a little high, but I'm not to worried yet as it's still just a shell with no weight in it. (I have the lowered kings and Tokico's) gav, you're sig has absolutely got me sold on bolt on flares.

I actually found that they were pretty slack with the email, which is probably the only criticism I had. I ended up just ringing them and getting a shipping price then doing the order over the online order with my Visa. I was undecided for ages too on whether to go for the cheaper KYB's or the Tokicos. I got the Tokico's in the end but dont ask me if they are much better as unless someone can push a shell real fast, they wont get a work out til the 2007 nationals (hopefully).

I ordered a set of tokico shocks from www.xshocks.com. The price is really good compared to anywhere is Oz and it was $90 US for air freight. Took about 10 days to get here and the guy did the right thing with the value on customs docket so no duty was applicable. I wouldnet hesitate to go through the same guys again.