g72s20

Not an easy one to answer. I didn't register any appreciable difference. The car was not overheating before the change, and all indications are things remained exactly the same, always within a needle width of the 80'C mark on the gauge regardless of open road or traffic. Remember it's on club rego so I don't get out a lot in it either. Even after the Dynotune the only appreciable difference is it's crisper/smoother and uses less fuel. Art, I meant a 270'(of arc) gauge as opposed to the 90' arc of indication currently fitted. Same temperature range though. Effectively a greater resolution (more sensitivity) of the same temperature range, so variations in temp are more obvious by being shown over a wider arc on the gauge. The fan fitted is almost the same width as the radiator. They're a bit taller than they are wide.

Hmmm ....Sucwurth or possibly a Piecost?

......always room beside mine Alan...Alan?

Have a look at the BIANTE (derived from B&T! true) website. They are in Cahoots with Kyosho and have a 1/18 KPGC110 green race/image car under development. Jim.

This is great news Alan! Congratulations! Did I miss previous posts relating to this:( ? If not, you'll have to fill us in on the background to that bad boy!!..and how you came to buy it. how's the other S20 beastie coming along? Cheers, Jim.

G'day Johnny, I think remember this car from the ebay auction (2004 sometime?). Was it in Florida? ..anyway it sounded like it had a great engine..outran a quick mustang on the street...I remember thinking it was not a lot of money for a great sounding car. If you have a look here, Skylines Australia-"Classic Skylines" you'll find quite a few guys and girls into the Skyline C210. I love what you've done with yours and please tell us about the engine setup!(photos? ) That slideshow is cool:smoke: Cheers, Jim. Edit;..OK I just reread your later post" Florida car,-4/2004, Marine" that's it!:stupid:

...and unfortunately you need a much more efficient compressor/ac system to achieve the same temp differential with 134A. The deal on R12

On Ebay Australia.6 Zed hubcaps Jim.

Left is standard combination and surround for KGC110 GT series. Right is combination for KPGC110 (GT-R) Australian delivered cars had the standard GT lights from the attached pic with the lenses of the combination closest to the centre of the car reversed. Outer ring is a clear reversing light and inner red lense is a brake light. The coupes had a larger outboard lense bezel than the sedans, so the rear panel of a coupe will have larger holes for the outboard lights than a sedan. I think the sedan rear panel has four holes of equal size. Jim.

An old Kit. Not GT-R....what a copout! LOL

Thanks Rob, that's the mob I was trying to remember in my previous post. It would be interesting to know how this job would be done. That quote seems awful high for what I imagine is some straightforward lathe work followed by some judicious buffing ? ..but I have no idea what may really be involved:nervous: A real conundrum Kent! The cost of freight back to Japan, and then back again to Australia would have to make the supplier look long and hard at options. You keep 'em at a discount for incorrect supply. If you sell these, supplier gives you a better price on the repacement set. (Goodwill for your inconvenience) Supplier pays for any work to correct the wheels to original order. Assuming the supplier is amicable to fixing this and maintaining a good sales relationship, what is their most cost effective option? Any budding sales managers out there??

25,000.00 AUD Australia Dollars = 18,552.06 USD United States Dollars 1 AUD = 0.742082 USD 1 USD = 1.34756 AUD

...Failing that there is this crew as well, not too far away. ..Thornleigh

Hi Kent, There was a mob in Kings Park (Valediction Rd? western side of Sunnyholt anyway) that specialised in Mag wheel repairs. Straightening, polishing welding etc.They did work for NRMA and such. I'll have a dig around when I get home to see if I still have their details. Jim.

Ah who knows? Slurped off Yahoo auctions JP. Probably aftermarket ones made for GT-R copys? If they turn out to be correct I wouldn't worry about the missing pins. Use Sikaflex-252. As Elwood Blues says "..Strong stuff!" I used it as well as the pins to stop the badges being souvenired. Anybody know if the original badges were diecast metal and enamel?..or were they always plastic? On the old 1964-67 Prince Skyline GT's the GT badges and Stylised P were originally stamped metal and porcelain like enamel colour, then became diecast metal with enamel paint colour. From scouring old pics from Yahoo auctions etc the 1968-9 C10's may have hade metal badges originally. It looks like all the repro stuff is in plastic. What badges are on your Skyline Miles? Jim.

G'day Miles! If you spot any pics of my KGC10 prior to our April Bathurst gathering , you will see it wore the same R33 badges on the front guards. Thanks to a good friend (Thanks Nathan S!)this has been corrected. Below is what I believe to be the correct badges for the KPGC110 rear quarters. The KPGC10 badges are just for comparisons sake. Do you have a pic of the 210 badges for comparison Lachlan?

If you have a read of this thread, and read through the PDF road tests etc you will find info that was relevant when the car was first released in 1973. Even though only 197 real ones were built, it may not have seemed like a big deal for an owner (back then) to add or subtract the odd genuine Nissan item to the car to personalise it. That change early in the cars life would be indiscernable from "factory fitted or deleted" today which may explain the anomalies mentioned. The assumption is the article writers got "it" right (the differences and similarities to the other 2000 GT's in the range)at the time. Thank Murph for continuing to host this! Jim.

Don't forget the C pillar fuel door/ vent cover. Doesn't look too hard to do a reasonable facsimile from the non gt-r ones...just the usual time, patience and attention to detail:rolleyes:

How did you go? Did you get it to work? I now have two that have stopped!

I think when a vehicle is new on the market it was(is?) not uncommon to have replacement shells available for the body repair industry. When new the cost of rebuilding the car into a new shell may have been a viable alternative to an insurance write-off. In my experience this was not uncommon during the late '60's to early '70's. Every now and then a NOS shell of varying makes will appear in "Unique Cars" (Australian publication) though usually of domestic production. ...Yeeeas! I would love to get hold of an old KGC10 rolling shell to build into a look a like of any of the old touring cars that raced...dream on JimLOL

Thankyou Paul, This is a must for any do-it-yourselfers around here, and there is nothing like good photos to show just what is going on. Thanks again! Jim.:classic:

...AArr Good on ya Bruce! you've got me well and truly hooked on this L28R thing. Just where is that engine now, hmmmm? I'm off to check out South African Datsun sites now!!:stupid:

I think for your situation Alpha, keep your eyes open for a fresh L28. I have no idea what the performance potential is of the NAPS, was this a change for emissions sake? Or can it actually be made to get the L6 to lift its skirts and run? As you say, triple Webers will always be expensive. There is a lot of potential in the twin su/hitachi's evidenced by the various class racing that demand these on the Z's. Maybe put some dollars into the set you have for a warm 2.8? If you are budget concious (and who isn't?) you don't want to build too much horsepower into your car because you have to be able to reign it in and control it as well ....bigger brakes, better suspension, the rest of the drive train from the clutch back. How much can the original bits take? All adds up to lotsa money. A nice clean L28 with fresh carbies or tricked up injection (anybody know anything of the performance potential of the NAPS?)...extractors into a twin system purely for the sound to match the looks! A mild cam...I reckon this would keep you happy without breaking the bank so you could keep the car long enough that in time your new job will be able to finance that engine change (and all the other mods this would demand) of the future to whatever your heart desires! Personally,eventually I want to see a twincam crossflow NA six with "adequate" power in my KGC10. It's a way off yet so I guess in the mean time I'm doing just what you are, seeing what's out there and just what it's going to take to get what I want. below is my idea of "adequate" 237PS S20 care of Shiraishi Engineering Japan.

First up, thanks for showing this Eric, I always hoped a DVD of this content would show up:classic: About your (American) DVD players. I have a brother in Boston who complains of the same thing...won't play other region DVD's. Are all the U.S, players region locked? DVD players here in Aust. are either multi region capable, or the region can be selected by fair means or foul:devious: , in my experience anyway. I can certainly fix you up with what you want, but I'm sure you wont have to resort to that! If you have the burner, the software you need to get what you need is out there. Jim.

Hi Ron I'm guessing you're in Australia? Good info and people here for Z car related things. I think you'll find what you need if you click here! Jim.