Kellhammer

I've broken the manifold bolts and it is no easy task drilling them out. If there is enough stud left you still have a chance to apply heat hit with penetrating oil such as PB blaster. If it is broken off flush then drilling out will work, but your best to have some one with experience perform this task. Also, easy-out's rarely work and if you break them off in the bolt, your really in trouble. Coincidentally, I was removing parts the other day from my 240 and did a web search about rusted bolt removal. Other than soaking the part with PB blaster for days , some people suggested heating and melting a candle onto the part. I gave it a try and it worked! It supposedly the heat draws the wax deeper into the joint and breaks thru the rust. This might work in some cases, but not all

Five That 510 is outstanding! Probably the nicest 510 right behind Tod Kaneko's I kick myself, because I sold my 72 when I was a poor college student to help fund my other car obsessions. I spent some time looking thru your Flicker pics. Wow! Love the lime and white Z's Then on top of all that, the photos are excellent.

hls could you supply some part numbers???

I'm intrested in the rear hatch gasket that runs around the perimeter of the hatch. Does anyone know if JC Whitney offers a gasket that matchs the original??

Austin, what brand wheel and what offset?

I think you could roll a clear on. So far I haven't found a arcylic enamel oil based clear in a can. There are polyurethane clears in a can. and Lacquer clears in a can. If the paint can be thinned and hardens than it can be sanded. I would stay away from any paint that is waterbased. Clear or not. I bought a can of spray clear so I could experiment with getting a finish. To see if it's possible to get a decent shine after sanding with 2000 grit and applying a clear. Skipping the polishing stage. Also it's probably going to be harder to make a spot repair once you apply a clear coat. If after the clear is put on and it developes a orange peel than it should get sanded with the same or higher grit before it was put on and will need to be polished to get the shine back. The paint I'm using is not getting the same gloss the rustoleum was getting so I most likely will add a clear coat at some point. But, I have to try to polish to be sure. Lacquer automotive paint has very little gloss with it's put on and you have to work up thru the grits to get it to shine which it does after a polishing.

Steve If you have a Home Depot near you thats where I got mine. The foam rollers are white not yellow. They look like they have a ultrafine texture to them. They come in four- pack or 4 inch wide rollers for about 3 bucks

Zman Heres a link to where I found out about the "$50 paint job" with the most recent discussion. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=38&vc=1 There is over a hundred pages of discussion on roller painting a vehicle. Several people have completed the job with outstanding results. As well as using different types of paint. My own personal experince is that it can be done with limited experience. Since if you mess something up you just sand it off. It is probably way more labor intensive than a state of the art Base coat/clear coat job. But with that type of paint trying to do it at home there are alot of downsides. I've done a few test patches on my 240. I first tried rustoleum it it works just like they say. Since I wanted to get a close match with the factory orange 918 I went to Sherwin Williams for a custom match. I got a industrial enamel that is so close to 918. It behaves a little differently from the rustoleum so I have had to experiment alittle. So far the gloss doesn't seem to be as good as what I was getting from the rustoleum. If I chip,scratch, or ding a roller job I can easily repair in my garage. If I were to have an expensive BC/CC job get scratched, it's ruined. Till I take back to be repaired $$$$$ Remember this type of paint work is not meant to match a BC/CC job. But it will get you a respectable job. That most people won't know from a factory paint job. It's heavily dependant on your effort.

The whole point of rolling on the paint is to get a decent looking paint job, without a booth, without the harmful, explosive fumes, without having the right experience and just so happens to be cheap. Currently, my car is about five different colors and has been parked in my garage for 7 years. I could not justify spending 3 grand to get it painted. This method will allow me to have it back on the road in a month. It's not a show car just something to tinker with. 1 bravo 6 What type of clear is that?

Went to Sherwin Williams a got a gallon of Industrial/ marine oil base industrial enamel "daredevil" orange (their color) which is really, really close to 918 orange from what I can tell. They made an attempt to scan my battery hatch door but could'nt get a good scan. 32 bucks for a gallon. Got home tried some test color samples a so far it's a close match. Finally, after all these years my project 240 will be one color again. I will post photos once I'm underway.

So far I've got about 5 coats on. I wet sanded my test area with 400 to get rid of some sand scratchs from my prep. Not bad looking for a quicky test. To do the whole car I going to start with a better prep job. But with only 5 coats, I can see a good and cheap paint job can easily be achieved.

I've got a 77 hood on my 72 240z

Zwhore The fender looks good. Did you do any wet sanding? I got a practice piece going and the paint really smoothes out easy. A few bubbles at first but they go away shortly. My prep was alittle sloppy but still it looks good after 3 coats. I going to wet sand with 400 to see how it does on the following coats

Zwhore. Why do you call it the "franklin mint" 240? Could you give the particulars on the paint you got from Sherwin Williams. It looks like they maybe able to do a color match and custom tint the paint. I agree about the shine. New BC/CC paint just seems to be too glossy for a car that originally wasn't anywhere near that level of gloss. Call it 'old school gloss' I'm happy with this process. Since I know my body work and rust abatement isn't absolute perefect. I be able to make spot repairs. Also all paint work can be done without a paint booth. Expensive ventilation or the danger of breathing deadly fumes. And most all I don't have 3 grand for a paint job Unless you've have used epoxy primer the car can rust beneath most primers and you won't know till a bubble in the paint shows up. I have a 74 260z that I put hundreds of hours into a paint job which in just a few years some cancer started too show thru at the wheel wells. That car stays in the garage all the time now.

Alright, finally with a orange z the same as mine. I been working with the roller method. Except, I'm practicing with a rustoleum orange. Yours looks better. Mines more of a orange/red. I'm conviced this method works. Using thin coats ensures that each layer will dry completely before the next is to be applied, The coverage is not as good but it's the best way to achieve decent results with the least amount of problems. I've had no trouble with bubbles by keeping the mixture thin. From the looks of the pictures the orange is a close match. What would you say, is it close to 918 orange?