Sean240Z

I've used http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/datsun/ with some success for inside the engine compartment of my 1973 Avocado Metallic 240z.

If time permits, maybe we could go for a drive after the show?

I got my Z back on the road two weeks ago. I used the ball bearings from McMaster Carr (see Post #10) and they work perfectly (no sound at all from the bearing now). I actually added two additional bearings (32 in total) and the steering feels great! Of course over the winter I also replaced the strut inserts (Tokico Blues), ball joints, tie rod ends, strut bearings, steeing rack bushings, inner control arm bushings, and installed the Motorsports Auto Tension/Compression rod kit (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190, highly recommended!) and new front tires (Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec) so I'm not sure how much the new bearings contributed to the improved steering feel. But the steering feels awesome!

I just registered too, the website kept crashing so I also had to call in. I'll be driving in from McLean, VA on Saturday morning so I should arrive around 0900hrs.Looking fwd to catching up.

Just saw this thread after I posted the Hagerty Price Guide for a 1973 240z here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51469-hagerty-price-guide-1973-240z/ Looks like the value of the 240z has jumped 35% since January!

1973_Datsun_240Z_.pdf I was just shopping for an Agreed Value insurance policy when I move back to Canada, and had a look at Hagerty Insurance. I generated a Price Guide for a 1973 240z and have attached it to this post. What's really interesting is the 35% jump in value between Jan and May 2015, now $42,700 for Condition 1 and $29,900 for Condition 2!!!

Yeah, I've been very busy the last few weeks and just realized the show is this coming weekend. Hopefully I'll see you there Bruce. This will be my last tript o Carlisle as I'll be returing to Canada at the end of June.

http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-import-kit-nationals/default.aspx I've been the last two years and I'm planning to make the drive up to Carlisle, PA on Saturday for the show. Anyone else planning to attend? Sean

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/24678-the-long-road-home/ Mark - In 2007 I drove my '73 240Z from Shalimar, Florida to Cold Lake, AB, approx 5,100km total. Two of the best days of driving I have ever experienced were driving through South Dakota, Wyoming and Montana (see above link). Whichever way you get round the Great Lakes (personally, I'd go south of Chicago on the interstate) I would implore you to take I-90 towards Rapid City (with a detour through the Badlands National Park) and then head towards Alberta. Below is my summary from those two days of driving from the above link: My favorite parts of this trip were driving through the Badland National Park in South Dakota and the two-day drive from Rapid City, South Dakota to Great Falls, Montana. Over the two days between Rapid City and Great Falls we drove over some fantastic roads with spectacular scenery and got to take in two awesome sunsets. We started out by heading out on a south-west loop to Mount Rushmore. We stopped on the road to Mount Rushmore and took some pics and then proceeded to the Crazy Horse Monument. The visit to Crazy Horse was awesome. They’ve been working on it for 50 years, and it’ll probably take another 100 to finish. The Visitor’s Center there was really well done. We then proceeded south then east and took the Needles Highway Scenic Drive (SD-87) in Custer State Park. This road was FANTASTIC, though a little narrow at times with quite a bit of traffic. Quite a few hairpin turns with some spectacular views once you get to the summit. Then it was US-16 (another fun open road) through Hill City and on to Lead. We then went south-east on US-85 to the Spearfish Canyon Highway (14A). This was another AWESOME road (highly recommended) as it follows the Spearfish River towards I-90. We then put the pedal down on I-90 to get to Devil’s Tower, Wyoming before sunset. Highways US-14 and WY-24 on the way too and from Devil’s Tower were a blast. As we were getting to Devil’s Tower late in the day there was no one on the road. I loved this road as it twisted and rolled through the Wyoming county side. We got to Devil’s Tower just before sunset and got some really nice pics. We then left Devil’s Tower and spent the night in Sheridan, Wyoming. The next day we blasted on I-90 until we exited onto US-89 towards Great Falls, Montana. US-89 was an INCREDIBLE road!!! With a 70 mph limit you don’t loose much time vice taking the interstate and the roads and scenery were spectacular. We took in another fantastic sunset to finish off an awesome two days of driving. This will add a day of driving to your trip, but it will be well worth it! I hope you have a great trip!

http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4924620014.html Pick-a-part this Sunday, 3/15/15 10am-2pm

I just realized that MSA is selling replacement interior panels (perhaps they've been selling them for a while, but I never noticed). They're pricey, but I was wondering if anyone had ordered some and could comment on the quality of the parts? Also, if someone has ordered multiple panels, how consistent is the colour? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08j08/40-3634 http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=40-3748 http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=40-3507 http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=40-3508

Has anyone purchased the Motorsports Auto, Interior Vinyl Replacement Kit? http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=40-4493 I'd be interested in comments on the quality of the kit.

Definitely a sad day.

Bill - Last spring I ordered a ceramic coated 6-into-1 header from MSA. Initially I was concerned as the flange was not completely flat (curved outwards at the ends). After calling MSA and doing some research, I decided to give the header a shot. Below are the instructions I received from MSA. "The way you determine if the header flange is warped is to place a straight across the whole flange. Balance the straight edge on the center of the flange, then measure the gap at each end. Up to 1/8" gap on each end is fine. Just make sure you torque the header for the center out. You shouldn’t have any exhaust leak issues." As my header was within an 1/8" gap at either end, I installed it and have not had any leaks. Cheers,

To follow up, I ended up making an "L" shaped support from some scrap 11 gauge steel I had lying around. I used JB weld to secure the bumper mount and support bracket. The bracket appears to be firmly attached to the bumper and is reinstalled on the Z. I guess I'l see how it holds up after I get the Z back on the road in the spring. Thanks again for your advice.

I'm currently selling the S30 seats out of my '73 240Z (I replaced them with S2000 seats). They're in need of new foam and recovering (unless you like the butterscotch velour!), but could provide a good starting point for someone who wants to retrofit earlier seats. The S30 seats can be seen in the following thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45802-s2000-seat-swap-in-240z/

Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes.

Good point wrt metric vs imperial. 1/8" would be 3.175mm. I'd appreciate it if you could measure the ball bearings and let me know the size. McMaster-Carr also has metric ball bearings in 3 and 3.5mm sizes (+-0.0025mm). http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-stainless-steel-balls/=uu42gv If my ball bearing swap doesn't work, I'll take you up on the bearing offer. I'd like to attend Carlisle again in the spring, but it depends on work.

Thanks Cap'n O! I was hoping I could get the bearings from Nissan, but no. After some research, I believe these 1/8" ball bearings are the right replacements: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9642k29/=uu16ls My top bearing was dry and I believe the ball bearings are now out of round. Even after adding grease, the top bearing is still noisy. I'll let you know how it works out.

Captain O - Thank you for the detailed pics. I've got the steering column out of my 240Z right now and the top bearing is noisy. I'm going to get a replacement bearing from Nissan, but how did you get the top bearing out?

The window rollers are notorious for breaking off. If you can't see it when you look down into the window door opening, it's probably in the bottom of your door. MSA has the window roller and the door window channel seals. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-2151 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a05/34-1052A

Passion. The 240Z is a beautiful car, that's fun to drive and relatively easy to work on. Unless you buy a completely restored car, you have to earn the right to enjoy it. After every drive, as I walk away, I always look back over my shoulder and smile. After 23 yrs of ownership, I still love my Z.

My '73 240Z was painted in Paint Code 113 Avacado Metallic. It was repainted in '96 with a colour based upon 113 but with more metallic. I used the Avacado Metallic from AutomotiveTouchup.com to paint the driver's side of my engine compartment last winter. Though not an exact match to the rest of the engine compartment (it is a bit lighter), you wouldn't notice it, unless I pointed it out to you. I also used this 113 paint to touch up stone chips. I'm fairly hapy with the match. Cheers,

Guys, thank you for all your input. The bracket broke where it first contacts the bumper, it was somewhat corroded. Also, the bumper had taken a slight hit (in the very middle) before I installed it on my car (I bought it used); consequently the ends are flexed outwards slightly. This summer, I retightened the bumper and needed to force the end inwards to start the threads on the bolt, so I'm sure that contributed to the failure. Over the winter, I'll attempt to repair it using an epoxy or maybe fabricate a new bracket and use the existing trim bolt (can be seen in siteunseen's pic above, just below the bracket), to secure it to the bumper. If that doesn't work, I'll convince my wife I need to buy a new Euro style chrome or stainless bumper Cheers,

I just noticed that the side bumper bracket on my front bumper (early 240Z style) is broken (see pic below, note that bracket is turned ~45 degrees to support the bumper). I have done no welding so I'm asking one of you with welding experience, if it would be possible to have someone re-weld the bracket on to the bumper, without damaging the chrome finish on the outside of the bumper?