lordbiotree

**********business********* type-O, sorry

http://www.calship.com/ try there. A thread came up a cuple days ago. The verdict way they do good buniss. Sorry dont have the link to the thread. -Brandon

Get the clear ones with no trim. You will need some Rubber weather stripping. You don't want tinted ones. How can someone see you in the dark? I know they still put out light but the point remains. I would hate to see your zed die. Clear-safer, looks better with almost all Z-cars. Brandon 71Z

My bother (who runs the local CarQuest) told me most of the parts would be special order with any RB-series engine. Any body els have any success? What's up with the 83zxt? I know it has hydraulic lifters. What makes them so bad?Whats positive? 81,82Zxt-Seems to be the best pick. What makes them so good? Is there any gotchas? You know, things you don't know untill you've dont it. Which ever I go with 81,82,83 I plan to buy it in perfectly running condition with a rebuild within past 5-years. As for now RB just doesn't seem possible I'll be doctmenting everything. With Pictures and vedo tape. When finished I'll give it all to Mike. I'll post as much as I can up at geocities to stay forever.

, I hope no one does that to their car.

Gav240z , I LOVE it. Never take it off the web. no matter what you do at least keep it on geocities.Websites seem to stay there forever. I'm on 56K took me a cuple of minutes to come up. -Brandon

I will not be racing, just running around the track for fun.They dont have any tracks here. I have to go way out of my way. My goal is to reach 400hp+ I've been looking into the RB26dett. The only problem is finding parts I'm leaning more towards an 82ZXT. Working my way up to 400hp. By my research the L-series turbo it'll only make up to 400hp and not much more. It seems more feasible to go with the L-6 turbo due to parts, cost. I don't want to spend no more than 6500 on the engine. If I go with the L-6 maybe I could drive it as a daily driver. All work will be done mainly my me. -Brandon

That would be a really sharp eye catching car. It would make a Great Show car. -Brandon

thefastestz- "I love the sound and look of the triple webers, header, and 2 1/2" setup" ------------------------------- That's what I would like to have. So I take it I should go stroker with a home made type blower? How well will a L-series engine take to a supercharger? Is there anything to watch out for? Rebello racing told me it'll be around 5K. From what I've read they build great engines. Is there any where els that custom builds strokers? Thanx, -Brandon

I'm looking into buying either a highly tuned stroker or Turbo (even twin turbo). Which one is capable of the most Horse Power? I figure a stroker will produce more go power off the line rather than waiting for the turbo's to spool up. I'm leaning more towards a stroker and thoughts? It'll be going into my old 71 parts car. She's ready to handle major power (new stronger solid rails). I've replaced the gas tank with one from a 78Z and ran bigger fuel lines. She'll see some track time when able to. Thanx in advance for all your advice -Brandon

BartZ240 Here's a trick with Locking gas caps that you've lost the key's to or in your cas bought car with no keys. Take a Slot head screw driver and a hammer (bigger the better). put the screw driver right in the middle if the lock and hit-hit-hit and usually you'll bust the lock or gas cap. If that doesn't work, drill the cap until you'll able to get it off. If your worried about stuff getting in your gas tank I wouldn't go with the drill. I've had success with both methods. Just make sure you don't drill a hole into your car. As for the locks-try getting a locksmith to make you a key. The only other alternative is buying all new locks which is very expensive......110 just for the ignition:stupid: -Brandon

In my opinion I would go with the green. The Blue is a great color but doesn't stand out as much. Green just says to me Don't I wish I had that car. The blue says Beautiful but traditional.

Will the old keys work on the later 240-Z? Did they change the lock design? Also was Nissan (and Toyota) one of the first car makers to use the double sided key's. I know most American car's didn't get them until the 90's. I've always wondered that -Brandon

what's advantages of converting to electronic dizzys? I have a 71 series I with a duel point dizzy from a 72 auto. Thanx for your input, Brandon

MSA(www.zcarparts.com) sells both 3 and 4 row radiators. It really doesn't matter how many rows the radiator has. Is what matters most is fins per square inch. I do not have personal experience with MSA nor know how Stock-looking they are. I run duel fans (one pushing and one pulling). They seem to work great for me here in Florida. I took her out Saturday during 100 degree heat and she ran cold as ice. I've seen some 80's chevy camaro radiator conversions. They are not direct bolt up but work great and inexpensive My$.02 Brandon

Can the single crab hook up to an Z or maxima? I think it would be more reliable or a great back up. Probably much easier to tune too. I wouldn't pay a $100:stupid: around $45 would be more reasonable. Brandon

Heres a pic of two pf my keys. dont know how to put picture in the post so download only. ignition key on the left. Door key on right.

Those dont look like orignal Z keys but they are Nissan keys. The only one that'll work on a Z is the one on the left.I've never seen a Short single sided Z key befor.I'll post a pic of my orginal keys.

One more thing. Isn't that a RHD prototype? There doesnt Look to be much of a difference in the body designs.

I'll have to give it to Kats. I think your a very great man. You have gone out of your way to give us information without a fee. Most of us here in the states haven't seen before. You'll Always be rembered. As for Alan and Carl, All I have too say is both of you make very good points which I (most of us) have never really paid attention too. I think this thread should be saved and not forgotten. It should be put in it's own folder. If you have to search to find it then it'll only be accessible to people who know what there looking for. As for me I'm saving it for future reference. Just some Food-for-thought. -Brandon

I run straight exhaust with an 6-1 header oh boy does it sound great. It has a great purr at idle. There are no smog laws here in Florida. She doesn't come out enough for it to matter any ways. regards, Brandon 71 series I

Assuming your car still has the stock cam. IN that case you don't need anything more than a good set or round top S. U's. If your car has been modified stock S. U aren't for you. Duel Webber's are great for street use for highly modified or stock cars. The only problem is they don't like your wallet. Duel Webber's around $1100 triples over $2000.Ebay will some times have like new Webber's but there usually $500&up. I always see round top SU's the need help. Zthearpy sells great Remanufactured SU's(http://www.ztherapy.com/) . Also try rebello racing(http://www.rebelloracing.com/) happy hunting, Brandon P. S you can't get anything more reliable than round top S. U's

I own 3 71's. I could never use them as a daily driver. I see them as a time piece. To be driven for pleasure and kept in the family. As for later Z's ( 280zx and on) I see those as great daily drivers. I drive a 96 Nissan 4x4 Hard Body every day. I enjoy being able to stop by the junk junkyard and pick up parts for my project Z. That's what I would recommend to any one who can afford it. Get your self a truck. Trailer you Z to car shows or while your driving in the country side and happen to see a Z you can maybe bring you home a new parts car/toy. Get your self a 280zx. You don't want a turbo cuz when the turbo goes out you'll be walking. I wouldn't recommend a 300zx because they are an electrical mess. There are just too few 240s and really shouldn't be totaled. Hope I didn't bore any one out, Brandon

From what I've seen nowadays it's going to be very hard to find a rust free 240Z. I've been very lucky. I own 3 1971 240Z's an orange, silver and Gold&black (repainted in 91). My orange Z is completely stock and never has been restored. The Gold&Black Z has totally been restored. None of those have any rust nor had any when bought. My silver Z is currently my project and has no floor pans or rails other than that it's a great car. I plan to do some kind of a turbo convo. The well kept Z cars with no rust will be around the 10-15k price range. at the 5k price range you'll get a great Z yes with some rust but usually the eigne has been rebuilt and babied. If you really want to get down and dirty and put in some true and honest hard work the floor&rails can be replaced. If the rest of the car is almost rust free now you've got your self a 8-9K car.It'll never be wrath the big bucks but will be a great daily driver. I'm starting on replacing floor pans and trying to fabricate really strong rails right now.

Not trying to be mean and mean no harm. I would never give up my Z for a car like that. Although I wouldn't mind taking it for a weekend or test drive. I would sell it to some young girl with a rich father and go and buy the best 240Z I can find. Happy Z hunting:D Brandon 1971 240Z(series I)