Gav240z

ummm how old are you?

To be honest I thought of exactly the same thing , I am not saying your full of crap or anything I believe it I just thought it was funny also .

I am glad to hear you are happy and I wouldn't personally worry about it effecting the cars originality what fun is a auto sports car in the first place? The 3.54 gear ratio is ok I'm looking at putting in a 4:11 into my Z at some stage I really want her to boogie . I recently installed a lighter flywheel and enjoy the way it revs but I feel that the revs drop quicker with the lighter wheel than with the heavier one. My new clutch made a huge difference also it really grips and makes changing gears a real thrill as it lurches the whole car forward straight away. Glad to hear your enjoying it . I am

I have no idea what your uncles car is but are you sure there's no way you could beat him in the corners the Z can be quite a weapon once set up right. Gav,

Put me down for BRE everything else is too ricey.

yeah I'm playing with the idea of switching engine heads or building another engine. Still unsure . Good to see you've made some progress there I know what fun it is removing it just havn't discovered how much fun it is to put it back.

What Steve(zvoiture) is saying, is in a nutshell yes you can do it but to be completely honest they look messy and they really don't do anything. If your using a stock intake and carbs say SU's. Then the airbox points so close to the front of the engine bay that it's practically perfect how it is. If you have a 280zx or 280z with FI which i don't think you do with a L26 in there then you can use what other steven has shown. There are other pods you can put on the front of the SU's but honestly they just soak up the heat from the exhaust manifold. :classic:

James just saw the post after I wrote you a PM. I know I have 1 set of flat tops in my n42 motor in the other 2 F54's I am not sure so as I said in the PM will let you know however it may not be for a while. Gav,

Alan do they choose the N42 for big bore's due to the F54 having the webbing around each cylinder? I am just wondering I have 2 F54's and a N42 at my house and don't wanna throw them out but space restrictions may mean i have to. However I was gonna go a max of 30 thou overbore so it might not be so bad. The 280c may have a F54 because it was fitted later in it's life it's hard to know in these old cars. Their history anyway. I am with Alan about the engine though if you don't wanna just put it straight in and will be doing some internal work it should be fine. It is an L6 after all.

Why don't you just run it down the 1/4 mile.

are you kidding about this you must be? It looks like junk if you ask me? Where does it sit? I can't picture this anywhere on a Z. You are joking arn't you? I think you are and i've just fallen for it. Sorry if you actually did like it. :sick:

Thanks for the links my friends, I have read a couple of those previously the more I read them the less there is to it. It's just sourcing the parts really. I have the flat tops the F54(2 actually) P90, I can get the l24 rods or even l20b rods pretty easily. The SU's are used on the set up currenly(Which I love) , but it won't supply fuel till 8400rpm gotta really use the webbers for that it currently goes flat around 7000rpm. So he's tinkering with the idea of putting those on or even tripple SU's like the old jags. I will definately try take pics of his car next time i see it, it's really a beautiful Z.

To my knowledge so far it's like this. P90 Head F54 Block L20B(4Cylinder) Rods. LD28 Crank. 260z Gearbox 4:11 Diff. SU's Ok for the work involved. The P90 head will be pretty wildly ported. Flat Top Pistons installed. 30 thou overbore. ~ 3.1 litre with LD28 Crank. Remapped Distributor(Revs out to 8400rpm). The SU's have their throats ported and the intake manifold is heavily ported. Not sure on Camshaft Profile. Valves still not certain. Comp ratio probably 10:1 Not sure on treatment of bottom end of motor in the way of shot peening, balancing etc.. As I said I'm getting a rough idea of the specs of the motor I know he's willing to help me out with it just gotta save the money. The car should pull low 13's possibly high 12's with this set up. in a 240z anyway 260z with some weight loss probably the same. I'm not engine building expert however hopefully I will learn alot about it soon.

hmmm usually backfire through the intake is a result of a lean condition. I am not an EFI expert so this is kinda a hard one for me. Is it possible that both AFM's are faulty? How did the other car run? By changing the AFM you could have changed a few things that were set up with the tune of your old AFM. Could even be electrical timing. although I'm not saying it is. Good luck. Gav,

yeah it's a fair bit of work to do but I have a fair idea of what parts I'll need and am currently looking for these parts. I will do my best to document the set up and all processes involved and try and make it as understandable as possible and hopefully publish it to other Z owners. With permission of course from the person who shows me how . Gav,

it was more expensive than I had originally thought also but I replaced most of the stuff in the area. I also got a set up that will be good for up to around 300HP. The guy who helped me out is running an L28 that is pushing just under 300HP non turbo on SU carbs. I will probably be getting him to help me build a similar set up in the near future once I have the money .

The total cost was just under $500 I think a large portion of the cost was the freight sending it to the country and back where this guy does it all done express. It probably wasn't even neccessary in the end I ended up with a new clutch plate , heavy duty clutch, and lightened flywheel. It's a really good setup from what I've experienced so far anyway. The flywheel was cheap, $50 because the guy who i went to wanted to get rid of it as he is moving out. To get a flywheel (properly lightened) would cost more. However the engine revs drop quicker with the lighter flywheel but the car does rev a bit quicker. I really notice it grip when I change gears especially second the car just shoots forward. You may not need a set up like this if you just have a stock L26. However I plan on a few ponnies more than what I have now. There are a few things to consider when changing the clutch that I had not taken into account. 1 machining of existing flywheel and pressure plate. You also have to make sure the teeth on the pressure plate are even heights mine were not. You will want a rear bottom engine seal(crank). Pilot bearing if you can do it I did not but it is recommended. A clutch alignment tool is not neccessary but would make it a bit easier I used a bolt to align it. You will definately need a torque wrench.(i knew this though) You should also take a measurement of your throw out bearing holder(not sure on correct name) but take everything in when you are getting it reco'd or renewed. Does that help? :classic:

My cars floors well the drivers side floor was a bit beat up and the accelerator pedal had been cut because of it. When i got the floors repaired for rust they beat it down to how it should be and it looks pretty good but I never really had a great look before. The chassis rails are a bit beat up from hitting something underneath the car a PO is to blame but it only really bothers me when i look under the car and the car isn't really effected by it. When i strip the car and do a groud up resto in the future I will take care of it then. Till then I just put it out of mind. And it seems like it's most likely the cause of a misplaced jack so I am very careful where i place the jack when i lift my car these days a previous Z of mine got a bit bent underneath when i mis placed a jack but no worries now that car was written off. :disappoin

have u had a look here at the part numbers. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4098&perpage=15&highlight=200zr%20mounts&pagenumber=3

Apparently the 260z had 7 more KW than the original 240z. WIth Boat anchors I don't know if it's true or not but it's what I read once. THe problem was they weighed a bit more. The chassis was strengthend so it was not quite as quick. The gearbox had a better ratio however not sure about the diff's this is also 2 seater I am talking about. Back then the car performed quite well by the standard back then so there was no real need to go to any extreme and fit the L20 to the 260z and it wouldn't be called a 260z. If you mean the S20 engine then it would have had a tripple car set up and probably not smog friendly. Also it was probably an expensive engine to produce being twin cam and tripple carbed. I think Nissan saw the easy option which was to overcome emission control stroke the L24 out a bit. Remember it's success was that it was an affordable sports car. Just my thoughts. Now to turbo charge that would have been another kettle of fish .

Nobody has answered if you can make the P90A into a P90 but changing lifters etc.. I'm still curious about this myself.