Gav240z

So let me get this right, bigger wheels allow for bigger brakes. Smaller wheels mean less unsprung weight and therefore more time with the wheels touching the road = more traction? So while bigger wheels look nice they don't neccessarily improve performance of a car. I always thought people put bigger wheels on for fitting larger brakes(you also get the people who do it for looks). Can anyone explain why too wide a tyre is not good? Does it slow you down by causing too much friction? Also do smaller wheels mean your turning less wheel and more power goes to the wheels than say with a bigger wheels. Ie Torque = Force X Distance? Alot of questions but really would like to know. This brings me back to another question regarding the toyota 4x4 calipers I went to a toyo wrecker who said that i would loose the advantage with the increase in weight(unsprung weight), This is one reason I haven't gone ahead with this conversion just yet. :cheeky:

Seriously not for a big area no. My mate did a rear lip spoiler on his car (Not a Z) bought paint in a can and I can definately tell it's not as good quality. I've never had much good luck with using this kinda thing, good for touch ups but not on a large scale. Just my opinion.

www.zhome.com will discuss all the differences in 240z's and what color's they came in. This issue has been discussed many times so I'm sorry if it's a bit brief. If you are unsure of anything just ask and I'd be happy to answer.

I wouldn't recommend it, you need to remove the circlips on the inside which is fidley enough, then you need to use a drift to wack them out or pop them out. I found I damaged the shafts hitting them with a hammer and in future would definately get them pressed for the time and aggrovation you'd save. Luckily I no longer have that car as it was in an accident, so I learnt my lesson, same with CV joints on FWD cars I'll always buy the entire shaft rather than save a couple of $$$ on just replacing a CV.:classic:

Damn it Bambi you beat me

It's a 70's racing part, I think along the lines of the Works cars, not 100% sure on it though. You can get a BRE front valance in the US probably alot easier and they look very similar. Alan T will know better than I .

Somewhere in 75 is when they made the switch. I have to replace mine on the 72 240z soon. I've been debating an upgrade to 300zx(Z31) CV Halfshafts or going with rebuilt Uni's. I originally didn't like the non servicable uni's but thinking about it they seem a better idea, alot of people put uni's back in incorrectly and this puts the driveshaft out of balance. I didn't know that over lubing them was a bad idea. Does this apply to ball joints and tie rods also?

I paid $300 AUD for just the front bumper didn't get the holes filled but I imagine its not difficult to do couple of small welds. Don't know if that helps you though.

yeah I like the stock looking wooden style gearknob mine has been replaced and was looking at getting an original one, but at $50 US nearly $100 AUD I think I'll wait.

BBalls more subtle spoiler is what I was looking at but after some thinking realised I liked the Z the way it looked with no front spoiler. Gnose is another option but it never went through I think the shipping was a bit extreme. It will replace all of the lower valance. I think Arch is the member who is using this spoiler. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3389&thumb=1 Check out his gallery it's quite nice.

Thanks for the help Marc as always I appreciate your help, the bang I have put down to backfire as it wasn't a big bang but it all happened so fast and long ago it's a bit of a blur. The smoke out the front of the intake made me think headgasket as I remember my mates HOnda . The exhaust and the water residue to one exhaust only can be easily explained because it was out of tune and one carb was doing more work I'm sure you understand. This time last night when it went dead I just turned into my mates place and it just rolled no bang nothing. It cranks but no action, the dizzy cap is worn bad I used a key to scrape alot of crud off it and have bit of the metal chip away. I don't know of any condensers or anything that could be gone, funny thing is it when i turned into my mates street I looked at the tacho and saw it wasn't working then I tried to rev the car and it all went dead. Now it's a bit hard to remember exactly if the engine was running with no tach working but I'm pretty sure cause you know how loud my car is. Because the tacho is wired thru the ignition I think it's something in that area but what? i don't know as I've said in the past the electronics side of the car is the one part I'm not good at. I think things like this will help me learn though . I'll try get a dizzy cap soon and try that after that though no ideas thinking something under the dash :disappoin

No Mike but i do plan on doing it, I was too scared of the shock I might receieve through the crappy Top Gun leads if they decided to go to the easiest path of flow and Zap me again. I have rubber gloves at home and I was at my mates place, I left the car there for now. I felt all 250,000 volts last time hehe cause the lead was of poor quality and was trying to get it to sit on properly. Anyway I'll keep you updated I have a feeling that it could be the distributor it self I hope not. Not alot can really go wrong with them, the coil is a new model bosch unit. So is there a condenser on the electronic dizzies? Or were you referring to the points type? Also do dizzy caps between electronic and points type interchange I have a spare dizzy cap at home but I think there different would you know?

Note car does not idle either . I could not even get it started again last night. This time it just died no bang no coughing just died and would not start back up. Thanks for the help also. Gav

No I haven't which capacitor are we talking about? There is none on the side of the dizzy because it's electronic, I'm hoping it's not the black little unit on the side of it there worth a staggering $800. The rotor cap is pretty shot hence the reason I was trying to chase one the other day. I think the new rotor button was less worn and was able to extend that bit futher to the points in the cap and therefore the reason the car hasn't played up. I will try locate the thread you are talking about. The alternator seems fine I had plenty of charge in the battery I turned the car over and over and over. However I did notice while driving the AMP meter was in the positive direction something i never took note of before??? Hmmm.

I've seen a Blue 280zx Turbo in Melbourne it was a nice car. Think it was still a 2+2 never saw it get driven or talked to the owner so can't really comment.:classic:

When it's actually running yeah . Thanks all the same, I would love to hear yours still hoping to make it to Sydney for that weekend.:classic:

The P90 is not essential but prefered a N42 is almost the same in many ways and I think Ben was saying the first 280zx's had the n42 on it. The P79 also had the same design but I think something on the exhaust ports to stop emissions forgot there name but apparently they hurt flow but then again there's no real proof of that. The E88 can be used for turboing I think a guy in the states did alot of custom work as it's what he does for a living and pushes 500hp out of his L28 E88 combo. Keep in mind the P90 will be set up for the EFI manifold already. A guy here in Melbourne is using an N42 and the head has been custom drilled for extra cooling and less chance of blowing a head gasket.

new update! Ok so i'm driving along to a friends house and as I turn into his street I notice the tacho is dead and the engine has completely stopped. I let it roll down the street towards his house. Stop and try and start nothing just turns over it's very cold and I get out and use the famous inspection lamp thanks Nissan . I remember someone saying to check the distributor connection but nothing, fuel doesn't seem to be an issue. I've recently replaced the rotor button and the distributor cap looks worse for wear and could be the issue here. Tried turning the engine over for ages no luck what so ever, I don't like it's leads or spark plugs at all. The fuses are all good is there anything under the dash that could cause the car to just cut out? a fusible link?? I'm completely stumped, not to mention the car was in similar cold weather on the day it happened as it was tonight so i'm not sure if that's anything to do with it. Help.

yeah dont stress my 72 has 1 early 1/4 panel on the left hand side passenger side in Aus . no hole behind the badge but oh well i knew it before buying 1 day i might change it back but for now it's not a big deal.