Gav240z

I dunno if there genuine minilites or not but they were a bit thing in the 60-70's etc.. I'd go with saying they are minilites they look old enough. Superlites George are what yours had just like my car. http://www.superlite-wheels.com/ here is a link to mine http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2263&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

No i hadn't yet Nick I had left the car a whole week not wanting to drive it because I had planned a tune valve adjustment and oil and filter change. I needed it that weekend to make it to a my University expo day because I was interested in a mechanical engineering course and was gonna find out about it talk about bad luck :stupid: . Anyway I have bought a feeler blade and valve cover gasket in preperation for it but had never got around to it. My theory on what happened is something like this. I noticed the dizzy rotor button and cap were fairly worn out and there was a build up on the middle of the rotor button that may have influenced poor ignition. The carbs were running rich and in traffic it fouled up and caused the car to backfire thru the carbs possibly from the valve clearance.(causing the bang I heard) then the smoke out the intake. So far so good I drove the car around yesterday all day and replaced rotor button leaned off the carbs on both sides half a turn car seems a bit nicer to drive aswell. I have to still get dizzy cap it's got new spark leads and plugs also. The compression seems ok and no water has been lost. for the water out the exhaust it had rained in between trying to get the thing started again and calling friends to pick me up or give me ideas on what it could have been. This could be the cause of the watery exhaust because the exhaust points upwards into the air out the back of the car. The car cutting out could have been ignition or just getting too fouled up and choking. I still would like to pull the head replace valve stem seals possibly inspect anything and look into a more aggressive camshaft profile. I have holidays in a week so it will be a good time to do some catch up maintenance.

I always thought this was for parking so that people can see your car at night easier, dunno that's just what i was told.

Thing is we never had a ZX turbo in Australia and we have a couple of private imports but i've never driven one to really comment on them. I've never really liked the look of the ZX myself compared with the earlier cars but we don't have any model other than 2+2 and the 2 seaters arn't common here either. So all i have to go by is pictures and what others say over the forums . All that aside your ZX is one of the better ones I've seen. I'm sure it goes pretty well and turbo cars are pretty fun. I've driven a mates VL turbo(RB30 Turbo) in a car that weighs a couple of hundred kilo's than a ZX even and it went ok with 5 guys in it . So don't worry too much

Actually the PO did have tripples on it :classic: . I have the twin SU's running and there the most practical when it gets driven daily to Uni and in traffic ouch tripples :tapemouth . I will be pulling the engine head soon most likely these holidays from Uni in about 1 week and may take it to get some head work done and install a larger camshaft I want that lumpy just idle cam hehe. Not sure what my comp ratio is I always thought 10:1 with all cylinders on 180 PSI. I don't know how to tell what ratio that gives. Might not be high enough for the size cam I'd like . I also have to address some pinging I think the distributor needs a bit of adjustment to get it fixed up. Would like to get it on a dyno but thinking abuot all those things makes me feel broke all ready .

Sorry to hear but I'm after a non vented bonnet, Nissan wants $700 for one brand new :tapemouth . I have a vented bonnet that is in excellent condition no rust and never bent. I do have a non vented bonnet but it was damaged by people who can't park their cars . Post pictures anyway for someone else who might be interested.:cheeky:

no but there was a guy selling all the bits you'd need for a turbo set up. exhaust manifold, intake manifold etc... was in the for sale section check it out. I'd love to buy it but once my poor Australian money is converted and the items shipped here I'm a little worse for wear than what he is asking.

well my work here is finished :tapemouth . well done.

Completely agree I found that i would get a bit lazy with my resto and things like this would soon get me going again. I also think it's good to keep involved with a club and see cars of members to keep the incentive and motivation. I remember seeing a friends turbo 240z and after that night I basically stripped the Z down over a 4 week period. :classic:

it would do us a great deal of help if you could state the following: Make Model Year Induction system (FI , CARBS etc). Ignition system. for starters anyway it could be so many things based on what you've just told us.

Keep away from tucker rd motors on north rd. doesn't make sense but it's called tucker rd motors. That's all I can say guy gave me a list long as his arm and my Z is a good Z.

Love the spilling bear part . Sorry Zmefly it was just too funny .

ok the distributor is of mitsubishi origin, why is that? so it's not the Hitachi one the rotor button works fine on it. the car hasn't really hesitated just seems the carbs are the issue here. Still can't work out the events that lead to it being the way it was. The smoke the stall and it not starting again, then a bit of water vapour out the exhaust I admit i did leave it for about 20 mins while I was trying to sort the problem it did rain maybe water went down the exhaust since they point up like the works rally cars exhaust system. I will fidle with the wiring a bit see what that does but they seem fine and haven't caused an issue since I've had it. That bang also I'm sure it was there I'll speak to my girlfriend about what she remembers cause she was in the car with me at the time maybe my memory is screwed. So confused.

Those Toyota 4 spot calipers are getting better by the day .

ok well i drove her today and she seemed normal, it was coughing and spluttering leaned it off a bit and seems a bit nicer. Car feels pretty rough I think the carbs , electrical distributor could use a rebuild. I really need to get it on the dyno, the clutch has been slipping so that's the first priority. Can't see any more watery residue so many it was just normal condensation. It's strange cause the car was running for like 30mins before hand. I gave it a bit of a rev to see and nothing real abnormal just out of tune. I bought a new rotor button and couldn't get a dizzy cap but will be trying to obtain it soon enough. I should drop the gbox see why the clutch is slipping then take it along for a dyno run. Dunno just have to wait and see if it plays up. :cheeky:

the rusty bonnet got any pics of it vented or non vented?

I had to ask what are you selling? Just incase i need it and i kick myself later.

Highly agreed, I wouldn't bother with those wheels If you can't fit them sell them and get something more appropriate for the Z. There are plenty of nice looking wheels and you won't have to go through the hassle of spacers and as others said there probably no the best idea in the world either. Probably not the news you'd like to hear but I think we'd rather see you safer on the road than have you out there with a dangerous set up that could cost you your life.

Thanks for the reply, to start with electrical timing checked out ok with the timing gun, it's running an electronic distributor which has been mapped to the camshaft profile. Car runs roughly like it's missing at first I put it down to perhaps water that had been making it run poorly. I still am getting water from the exhaust and it's not just on start up after the incident i noticed a small pool of water behind the exhaust when it had been idling it was cold on the day. It just doesn't make any sense mind you I haven't really tried to troubleshoot the problem due to being busy. Any other ideas? Air filter is a stock air filter and just replaced recently, don't think any foam got sucked into the combustion chamber if that's where ya going :classic: . The plugs looks fouled up but that's probably from it's poor running I know the distributor cap looks a bit worn out and the rotor button probably could do with a replacement. There a place to start and cheap enough to do. I guess I'll keep having a go at it and see what turns out. :disappoin

Hahah I'm doing computer science also, I'll be finishing an advanced diploma and going on to do a degree in multimedia computer science but was thinking after of doing something involved in mechanical engineering dunno yet. Sounds like you have your hands full and I know what a computer science course can be like :stupid: . Well good luck.