Gav240z

me have headache :dead:

Nothing complex but they need constant maintenance. I think if you replace the points the condenser on the side of the distributor the rotor button and dizzy cap as well as spark plugs you will get alot better ignition. Infact I guarantee it, just the points alone can transform the car but they are a bit tricky to set up. Sticky chokes are the norm unfortuantely unless you plan on rebuilding them don't loose sleep over it, (I have before) half kidding there. You should be able to do all that for around $60 I'd say if not less and it will be more reliable, don't know how many ignition problems I've had with points dizzies. She should start nicer but don't expect first key turn action, the spark is alot weaker with the points than the electronic one. I think the ballast resistor reduces the voltage. Let us know how you go.

Your right Mellow you do have to do an engineer report infact I think it may be illegal to have a turbo charged L28 in your 240z but legal to have a turbo l24 in their. SOmeone once said this haven't been through the proceedure so not 100% on that seems a bit silly. Especially if you can have an RB26 in a Z. This is for victoria as I say only heard this once not 100% sure.

Lindsy does know how to build good engines just not sure if he'll charge u a reasonable price.

I know of a guy with an authentic gnose that constantly goes over 100mph never noticed that but he also had his reinforced after someone reversing into it one day. I was pretty sure it was a lower part of the gnose which was poly but couldn't remember.

Yeah there are alot of Skylines here in Aus too many infact. I think this is mainly because of the taxes involved in new cars in Japan and the fact that Australia is right hand drive just as Japan means they can export them here and to be honest there is a big market for them. Second hand imports are everywhere in Australia . I no longer have that 260z either , I now of course own a 240z there the best . RB engines are pretty well priced with the exception of the Rb26 which is still expensive.

I realise alot of us Aussie's will know of this car or have read this article but I think alot of other people will enjoy reading about this car. I have never met the owner but would like to one day just seen him driving on the street when I was in my 260z . It's a very nice car Enjoy. http://www.fullboost.com.au/cars/readerscars/sinisha240z.html

From 73' onwards they were replicas, as Alan always says the better stuff comes from japan. Also the original Gnose was partly made of a rubber compound and is said to be of very good quality. I have always wanted one but am not so sure about the fibreglass ones. I think if I ever get one it will have to be an original one.

His car is truely awesome and the attention to detail is what I love most it shows passion more than ricey bodykits . He deburred the block HPC coated everything from pistons to valves to anything he could. I really enjoyed that page anyone know how to contact him? I had his email but lost it not sure if he even uses it anymore .

While I think your offering good advice I'm not so sure that is the problem. How does it run when it is running? Does it accelerate ok? I'm starting to think electric issue, maybe not good enough spark or timing could be out. Hard to diagnose but can u specify what carbs you have and your distributor type? Did you also check that your choke is connected in a manner that would mean both sides are being given the same amount of choke they are notorious for getting sticky also. I also had a 260z that would require several cranks before coming to life I blame this on the points distributor. As well as rotten british SU's.

If you wanna just fuel inject the L26 in your daily driver pull the efi gear off a Skyline 2.4L E in the junk yard. That will bolt up to the L26 head and probably only cost you $300 at most. Just a thought to help you finish that first project quicker and save you some money .

I've had the same thing happen to me so many times but the good thing is it shows we all agree on how to solve the problem or at least problem shoot . It's also good to see that we are all actively on the site helping each other out. :classic:

I agree with the others if you get that much play it will be leaking and you will never get them set right. I had mine rebushed at $50 AUD a side and there was no play afterwards. You should also check the pistons in the SU's and if they drop evenly if they don't you won't get them set right either. Check the condition of all bolts that influence the settings of the carbs are they rounded good condition etc.. Throttle shaft bolts, mixture nuts(if there british ones), the ones next to the dome that adjust air flow. Look up a carbie specialist in the yellow pages. www.yellowpages.com.au I know of a good one here in Melbourne but that doesn't help you. I would recommend rebuilding any carb as a general rule anyway in terms of reliability etc... For an L28 engine price could vary in Australia if you looking at a second hand basic engine I see them for $300 in the trading post. Anything that had good work done to it may cost a bit more . And remember if your planning to use those SU's on a L28 you will want bigger needles and possibly seats otherwise she'll run lean top end and feel crap.

I don't know about that buying a ZX will be more expensive than a motor and you'll have to get rid of the crap heap afterwards. I'm sure you could get a complete motor with everything you need have you asked Warren from Zworx? He has ZX's around from time to time. I understand where your coming from but cars lying around is messy to say the least.

www.darius240z.com He's done the conversion and I think he's using a Nissan Diff. Speak to him.

I think you have a L26 yes. The l24 will read P30 on the block and a L26 is just a stroked l24 meaning crank would be slightly different to give the longer rotation. I don't think I've ever had an L26 lying around to be honest just l28's and l24's. the L28 is a bored and stroked L24 so it's a bored L26. Hope that clears it up.

Did you ever see Simon DeGroot's progress on his L28 240z .? The one that was at the website zbuild.net but the site is now gone. He did some cool stuff to that engine alright, I loved reading about it and learning from that site. That book you've been studying is alot to take in but really captivates me I spose I'll give it a few more reads . Thanks for the info.

All i can say is good luck it's hard to find the finance to do one let alone 2. I'll be on holidays on the 16th of september onwards myself and will have some spare time so when I'm not working if you need a hand with anything I'd like us to meet up and do some work if you want. I already have a few Z mates around Melbourne can't hurt to have 1 extra .

Zmefly are you selling these as a business deal or just 1 pair? If you plan on selling them for a while, I spose I'd be willing to look into them in future .

Depends I guess on what engine you plan on using. If your gonna install a big V8 then you'd probably look into one. However Nissan made some good diff's through the years and the R200 with an LSD kit should hold up a fair amount of abuse. I don't recall much on a ford 9" diff being used in Z's not that it's impossible just better alternatives. Besides you'd probably loose a bit of power turning that thing.:classic:

Hey Ben did that make the car alot smoother? I'd imagine a well balanced engine would be really nice to drive. Better to rev etc.. Since I may be in the process of building an engine head and or block myself what can you recommend I do? I'm really eger to learn about hot rodding an engine I have the book on "How to race and Modify you L series Engine" I've read bits do you have any other litreture I should study before diving in. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html That site was really good help and the more I read it the better I understand it. THanks.