Gav240z

Now not trying to be skeptical but I like the idea of these it's just well the stock air box works just fine and I don't know how much these could really improve the engine? Also what would I do about the oil breather hose? where could I connect it back into the system? I'm sure they look real pretty but not sure if you'd get more heat soak into the carbs with them or with stock box. BTW did you sell the Gnoses?

To my knowledge the Petronix system replaces the points in a points driven distributor. As for your issue, I had a fowled out spark plug cause me grief and it was slowly building carbon on it i'd say till one morning I started with choke out and realised it wasn't firing correct. Just in case check the spark plug lead it's always a long shot but I don't think you mentioned anything about the leads. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html Brian Little's website will tell you what electronic dizzy you will need and what module. For a carbed Z

note it only has a brief comparison on the 240/260 not much but was all I could think of that I have. Most stuff is on restored examples and there usually if not always 240z's. What stuff do you have on 2+2's out of curiosity?

I have a old old article from way back about Z's I can try scanning it for you can't guarantee good quality and would probably be large files. It's an AUS article. Also Unique cars have a lift out this month on Japanese classics it reviews the Z's up to the 350z. This month only be quick and it's about $4. Let me know

Been a fortunate bastard, my cardboard one is in as new condition (Thanks PO's). I have a plastic one that I kept from my 260z do you know if these fit. I originally kept it after the car was written off as I thought the original 240z cardboard style ones were no good. But seeing as I have on is excellent condition I think I'll leave it in there unless something ever happens to it. If it would fit a 240z I guess Steve could have it if he's interested I wouldn't ask much for it , but I wouldn't want the hassle of organising shipping to the US if you could sort that out and let me know I'd practically give it to you. Provided I could still find it in the garage. Let me know.:classic:

I find that adjusting them is a bit of an art and it's best to take your time, as the others say your always gonna get a bit of noise but it's better to actually be able to hear some noise than none. I haven't done them cold before but might give it a go, since one or 2 sound a bit noisy. A good oil change always makes me feel better about the noise also dunno it's just me. I notice too things about Z's after you've given them a good hard drive say 5,500 - 6000rpm. The valve train makes a little bit more noise, and the SU's need adjustment again. That's after a repedative hard drive over a 2 week period or so. Do you guys find this?:classic:

I had a 73 before this and my 72's is missing I think it happened when the dash was reco'd oh well something to fix later .

Adjusting them while there hot is the best because as you should know metal expands when it gets hot. Since the engine is usually hot when you drive it most it is ideal to adjust to that tempreture to get as close as possible. I guess it's really a matter of preference but I've always done them while hot.

are 73's the first with the glove box light?

One more Z with an original number. That's always good to hear, to me an engine swap is something you do to a car that you don't want any return value on or doesn't hold a classis status. There can be so many considerations to make when re-engineering a car. If anything I'll probably go Turbo L or maybe a rb26 but I know whatever I do must be undoable.

you can pickup a second hand engine pretty cheap there's always one or 2 advertised. Since you know how to check compression etc you should be able to get a hold of a decent one for a low amount of $$$. That way you can rebuild the engine you have in your own time and learn something new . You could always sell that engine again later. Just a thought.

haven't read anything about the diesel cranks being made of anything different than the other L series cranks. Not to say Halz is wrong just can't confirm this. The Diesel crank allows for a bigger stroke ie the difference between l24 and l26. If you've got a L24 in your Z you'll know it's a nice revving engine mainly because of the shorter stroke. The l28 is a bit chunkier doesn't like to rev the same as the old l24 but doesn't do so bad. The diesel crank will allow for 2.9ltr capacity in an L28 block. You'd need to give the cylinders an overbore to get the l28 to 3.1ltr but it's common practice. My friends setup has (200b L20 rods) diesel crank P90 head etc.. and the thing like to rev nice sounds awesome too with the stock SU's. I would like to emulate his set up as it is cheap to do and his car is pretty fast .

http://213.107.20.247/Gallery.html for anyone else who is curious.

Yeah I know the car, there was also a 2 door 180B. They are pretty rare seen a couple around.