Gav240z

810 sports coupe? Never heard of one do you have a pic probably came under a different name in AUS.

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/su.html Good site explains in detail how to dial in the carbs. Also have you put richer needles in those carbs? The seats may also need to be changed but if they are Ztherapy this should have been done I guess.

Hmm not sure about Petronix ignitors I know they replace the points but does the distributor still require the little capacitor on the side? If so that could be playing games, you have ugraded coil so i'd rule that out for now. Does it play up hot or cold? Sounds to me like carbs are out of adjustment , could be a blockage, how about your fuel filter when did you last change that? They are rebuild carbs from Z therapy right? so shouldn't have vacumm leaks, check the intake manifold for split hoses or loose connections. How about your spark plugs they could have fouled up from the carbs being too rich. If they are all black give them a clean with a wire brush and rinse them in kerosine or something similar. You could also check spark leads for resistance with a multimeter but remember longer wire means more resistance what you'd be looking for is very very high resistance. Good luck.

Wish I could be there .

let me know if your willing to seperate them. Are they 1 piece 3 or 5?

Hi just covering what lance was saying, the British SU's are a little different to the Hitachi SU's. That blocked off return line is not needed Lance is correct I had a 260z with British Style SU's and these were blocked off on my car also. To my knowledge the electric fuel pump was fitted 74 onwards, my 73 240z had a mechanical one still. Funny I always thought that the mechanical one would be more reliable than an electric one, that's why I haven't bothered changing mine and it seems to keep up with the carbs alright. In a turbo situation I would recommend and electric fuel pump because more air generally requires more fuel and the stock mechanical pump can have trouble keeping up on an N/A Z engine. They recommend 5 or so PSI but in a turbo situation your best off talking to a tuner especially a carbie turbo setup. :classic: However a friend of mine was running a blow through carbie setup on his 260z and required a stronger than stock electric fuel pump. Does that help?

In my experience I've found it hard to differentiate myself and currently I have a bit of a odd noise coming from the rear left of my car not sure if it's wheel bearings, uni joints, or the differential or none of the above. For now I won't worry about it and if the diff blows up (highly unlikely) I'll replace it with a R200 LSD instead of the R180 in there now. The wheel bearings , uni joints will be done in due time anyway so I guess I'll know better then.

Yeah I got the whole forklift thing happening too but I think I'll wait till I fully restore the car ground up to fix this issue, as it only looks ugly underneath.

I haven't managed to find Redline oil here in Australia for the Z box instead for any Aussies who are reading I've heard GM LUBE is good stuff for the Synchro's. If you gbox is noisy as in a droning noise it would most likely be bearings. Had this problem with a Z a while back, try driving it slowly down your street or down a hill and letting it roll down this should give a good indication.

Could you get away with harder suspension? probably not but even pop riverting is a bit hard for me to contemplate incase I ever decide I'd prefer it without. From my experience with my cars everytime I've modified something I've always looked at photo's of how it was and wanted to change it back. I guess that's why I'm after a rotten old project car that would otherwise not see the road unless my intervention to fix up restore and then modify as I see fit. My current Z was looked after meticulously by the PO and I just feel bad chopping her up . Anyone else understand my logic or am I just plain old nuts? :stupid:

could have a map sensor instead of a afm.

Just Curious what are Woodruff keys???? and what do they have to do with a Crankshaft?

I couldn't work out what you meant by clearance but if your getting a fair amount of play moving your rear wheels left to right I'd say it's the Uni Joints. You many only hear them slowing down or taking off because this is when they "click" the most. At highway speeds I can hear mine make a bit of noise but mainly on the left hand rear of the car. Anyway good luck let us know what happens.

Also forgot to mention I loved Costa's engine set up been really thinking about doing the same thing but my E88 L28 combo goes alright so don't know what to work on . P90 or E88 many opinions on that one . Speak soon,

Sulio the setup Nick describes is what I'm running at the moment, putting an N42 head on a L26 is harder than putting an E88 on one to my knowledge anyway. You'd probably be better off getting a L28 block if you want the N42 head. That is why most people recommend it , it's the cheapest option. To get higher compression you just need flat top pistons in there. You already have the electronic dizzy so you should get quite a bit of power . Have you read the website? http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html I had to read it several times to take everything it, but it's a very good read, I also have the how to modify your L series OHC engine , your more than welcome to borrow for a read as I don't read it very often. You can always buy it aswell for around ~$50 worth it if you ask me. BTW I can make either Sat or Sun this week so far as I haven't been rostered at work at all . Have to speak to my manager tomorrow.

Had a second read of your post, the headers are unusual are they coated in HPC coatings? Maybe try another header they look slightly(How do you say on the polite side) cheap? They do seam unusually thin for what purpose I don't know.

I tend to agree with Lance, your water temp might not rise but the internal workings of your engine could well be higher than that. I've never seen glowing exhaust systems on a NA car only on a turbo. You can quickly check your spark plugs and let us know if they look grey, brown or black that would help. but you probably already know this.

Something steve missed it that it could be the door seal. Unless under your wiper assembly there is a rusted hole water should not come in from there but it may find a way as water does. :classic:

Can't Help Blitzkraig but I would just like to say I love the webpage you made and I read about the old truck you fixed up or are fixing up. Keep up the good work.:classic:

I imagine he used this engine for a number of reasons the dual webbers are a waste of money if you ask me unless you go Tripple. The SU's are fine for the Z unless he couldn't get a hold of early carbs. The ZX block had extra webbing between cylinders making it slightly stronger. All L block are bullet proof but just that bit extra. It may have a N42, P79, or P90 head which are generally higher flowing heads. I'd imagine that's why he did this.:classic: