Gav240z

Bought it today not bad bit of a shame they had to mention Albretch Goertz.

Carl my water tubes through the carbs on my 240z were removed so that no water runs through them either. It doesn't bother me however we do get cold days here in Melbourne especially in winter sometimes it's very cold and the Z takes a little while to warm up. Of course it's better for engine life to have it warm quicker but I have always thought that having coolant run through here would also cause the car to get more chance of vapor lock in Summer? You have to picture melbourne as being cold as ICe in winter and Hot as Hell in Summer. Just curious about this.

One of my favorite Z's around if not the best. http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~satotats/zhp/ Is the website alot of time any money went into it. More the time I'd say as it was painstakingly and cleverly assembled.

I'm open to any other suggestions, but the cheapest and easiest would be to install the heat shield first you could grab one from any wrecker but I was gonna go and get mine made up becaue the stock one is useful but has it's flaws. This is my inspiration .

Fact header wrap will reduce the life of the headers mainly because it's keeping all that heat inside the headers and puts more stress on them. Could cause them to eventually crack and warp I guess but to me this is a minor thing considering how much I believe it will help my 240z perform. I don't know about you guys but at night when it's real cold my car is a whole different beast. BTW how long have you been running these carbs on the car? How long has the problem been around? Does it happen in traffic while driving? Does it cough and splutter backfire at all or just die?

Had a look at your gallery and you have no vents in the bonnet and no heat shield under your extractors, I believe this is a big part of the problem. Your fuel lines are also not insulated.

From the sound of it I really think it's vapour lock. If anything installing the heat shield and header wrap will improve performance anyhow but don't write off any other possiblities.

Let's see if I remember correctly . L28 P90 Head, L20 Rods from (200b), LD28 Crank(Diesel Crank), Pretty sure it was high compression, running dual SU's, electronic ignition, lots of advance I think, LSD, Larger Cam , can't remember anymore but it was very fast. He believes we can do it to my engine for around $3k Australian, but he requires new fuel pumps every 6 months , he will be installing a electric pump soon. The gearbox is 260z 2 seater ratio very short first, and the differential is 3.9 I believe ratio wise. He had a 4.11 I think before and he was running mid 12's with that but changed to a 3.9 and estimates it to be around 13.5 now. My car went ok so I was pleased he thinks if he had to guess anywhere between 14.5 - 14.0 second down the 1/4 mile. Only thing with his ratio's were a top speed of 160km/h but who cares when u go 0-60 miles like a gun . There's a few people running 12's on SU's around I would like to be one of them one day .

Not sure but was under the impression.

As Bambi was saying "Holy Rusted Metal Batman" for those who saw part 3 with Jim Carrey you'll know what I'm on about . Unfortunately very common spot infact my Z had this on both sides but I manged to get it repaired before it got too bad. One day I still plan on stripping my Z to it's bare side and full restoring her like you Mdbrandy keep up the good work >

Not a webbers expert I'm afraid , but do you have the vented style bonnet or non vented? You mention no heat shield which is most likely your problem if you ask me. Alot of heat sink will occur and disrupt the operation of the carbs if you ask me. Try some header wrap if you can't get a suitable heat shield that works with the webbers and see if that helps. All the best,

At first I thought nah I won't bother reading this but then i started to get interested and kept going all the way. It's reall worth the read for anyone who might be avoiding it . I am very jealous of your drive too bad you were on your own for it, would have been really good to take a friend etc.. It's a shame your using such a meticulously looked after Z for racing but ah well. As long as you enjoy it I know I would and one day I would love to do the same thing. Only thing that would have got me is no heater arghhh how did you do it . I find my Z's heater is very weak in my 240z compared with my 260z I had before not sure why. But that's another post . Well now I know how happy it has made you I think I will be more likely to help inspect cars in future for other members on this forum. I did the same thign for a friend recently who wanted a 260z and it's funny how when your not buying the car for yourself you are alot more relaxed about it and can make a clearer decision. Hayden if your reading mate, I'd be willing to check out a 240z for you in Melbourne if you like just let me know .

Ok I'm after a diesel crank but not right now as I'm still working things out with my new job and money is a bit scarce but I wanna know what the LD28 came in. I know it was found in the NIssan Patrol around 1980 I think but don't know what it looks like. Does anyone have an photo's of what these things look like, This is gonna be part of my L engine build up so would be good for future reference. Thanks

hehe nice score I have a new friend with a couple of these manifolds around his place . Was tempted to buy one till I saw how fast his NA Z was . I have a spare P90 at home like you so will see what happens in the future. There might be a Z get together here in Melb soon with a few of us young guys I'll keep you updated were looking at a Saturday or Sunday in a fortnight.:classic:

I was inspired by a guy I just met, he has managed to do 12's down the 1/4 in his N/A L28 with the right mods. I was very impressed when I saw his car in action, I could keep up but he kept pulling away and it made such a wicked noise. Best part was the stock SU's and aircleaner. FOr around 3k he reakons we can build the same setup.:classic:

Looks very painful but I couldn't help but laugh at the following one. http://www.wreckedexotics.com/newphotos/weird/weird236.shtml Die Honda

Not exactly sure if I can help all I know is some of the distributors have a marking under the rotor button I think it was. Where it says a number 9 or 12 the 12's are rare the 9's are easy to get. The 12's will allow for plenty of advance. SOmething I learnt the other day don't know if it helps.

Should also mention that Unique cars is sold in Australia.

Thanks for the notice . I was told about this but had forgotten should be good to see what they have to say. This kinda thing always makes me happy to see and causes a bit of hype too. The 350z's release had made people realise the value of the original in many ways. I still have an older Unique cars article about the top 10 classics to buy now from about 2 years back. Listed is the 240z .

I would but I wouldn't give him 4k and where he lives is a bit far from my place.

Guess the only way to find out is to look at the car. What worries me is that it's such an early car yet he has had so much trouble selling it. Early cars shouldn't have much trouble being sold if they are pretty solid state wise.