Gav240z

Escanlon you can adjust levels which will give you control over the lower light level pixels this will prevent that pixelated look in the dark regions while allowing you to increase the other sections. Hard to explain but it basically allows you to adjust different light level pixels in different ways.

Oh Carl don't tempt me, I have to tell myself to put it out of my mind when I see a car like this. http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle?vehicle_id=3142834&current_rec=15&used_rec=2&total_rec=41&sort_type=&total_rec=41&sort_type=&make_id=37&state_id=-1&search_distance=25 It's a good thing he hasn't accepted $15k yet because if he only wanted 15k I'd probably be tempted to somehow finance the thing, despite having nowhere to store it. You are absolutely correct they are getting very rare these days. 5 or so years ago you would see a few driving around now it's rare to see a 260z 2+2. Even the old 280zx is getting to be a rare site. Most examples of 240z are not very original and not very good condition and often they are asking too much, which makes it hard to gauge the correct price for a good quality 240z. Try finding one with the original L24. :eek:

I agree with Alfadog I love your choice of wheels. You always have a great set for your cars. Keep up the good work and post some more pictures of your rides .

I like that thread idea. It's great to see the whole range of Zeds that have been available. It's is very obvious that alot of 2+2's are advertised and 2 seaters are much rarer. Value certainly comes down to how clean and original a car is. Just looking at that list it becomes very obvious very quickly that not many Zeds in Australia are original many times owners claim they are but a "True" enthusiast knows better. I'm extra glad I grabbed my original engine block and all the while more enthusiastic about my choice to keep my zed as original as possible when it comes to modification. There is currently a 240z on carsales.com.au http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_results? current_rec=1&used_rec=2&total_rec=41&sort_type=&total_rec=41& sort_type=&make_id=37&state_id=-1&search_distance=25 Current offer is $15k quite a reasonable offer for buyer and seller IMO 20k is too high I would say but 12k is too low. :cross-eye

Either / either way it's a sensational looking Zed best of luck if you decide to bid.

I haven't started one yet, I'm caught up with study at the moment so if you want go ahead and start one. I'll be happy to add what I've found later on.

$400 and it's been rolled if you read the ad description. I think it would have been a better car if it was RWD.

Hi Belgian Z I guess you are correct, it would be pointless to start a new thread on the factory colours. However maybe we could start a thread on all the interesting colours a ZG has been painted. I know I've seen quite a few interesting colours. My favourite is yellow it really gives it that older Ferrari look. My Zed was painted in a "Ferrari red" shade however the original colour was a shade of Silver can't recall the exact number. When the time comes to strip the car down to a bare shell and apply a new colour it will be a hard decision. I'm thinking of going with the original silver or original red 910? However I'll try not to get too worried about it, still a while away, engine first.

Just stumbled across this rare beast. While I realise it won't be everyone's cup of tea (I know it's not really mine) I do take an interest in it. http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/classifieds/index.php?a=15&b=135 I've seen these in race trim before and they scrub up alright. I'd be interested to know if they did alright. I believe it's FWD something of an oddity for the era for Datsun anyway.

Is it possible that it's a 2+2 Stub axle? If it's 4mm longer it would seem logical given the 2+2's longer wheel base. Then again I don't see why it would be neccessary to have longer stub axles.

Hi Paul, thanks for the article really appreciate you taking the time to place it on the forums. I have been actively reading your posts on hybridz.org for some time however I haven't posted much on hybridz.org just yet. There is a section of this site dedicated to technical articles, which I believe is reviewed by the admin not 100% sure since I've never posted a how-to.

I think Alan T (HS30-H) would be the best person to ask about colour codes. I would like to start a new thread on ZG factory colours. I personally love them in yellow but red would be awesome aswell.

Great Article I've always wanted a job like that. I might try and find his book I'm sure it would be an interesting read.

Ok I'll await Mick to send the photos of his and hopefully we will be able to confirm.

Hi Mick, If you could post the image in the thread i'm sure it will help others now and in the future. If that's a hassle please send the pics to gavindoolan at optusnet.com.au Thanks alot,

Hi Mick yes I heard that information as well about the 27 splines. I thought I read it on www.240z.id.au however I could not locate the information when i looked again. Let me know how you go with the stub axles and the differences between 240z and 260z ones when you receive the "correct ones". I'm looking to buy a set of ZKid provided they are the right ones. I also read that early 240z ones have been known to break. pretty scary thought really.

Ed that's simply magnificient can't wait till mine looks like that :laugh: .

Hi everyone, I'm looking at getting a set of 260z 2+2 stub axles for my 240z. I'm wondering if the 2 seater and 4 seater stub axles are the same? I imagine the only difference is that the 2+2's had longer driveshafts but the same stub axles. In the US I understand you guys swap to 280z stub axles which are the same as 260z stub axles here in Australia as far as I'm aware. If anyone has anymore details let me know. Reason for 260z stub axles is that I believe they are stronger and these are easier to adapt to a CV joint upgrade, something I will be doing in the future with an R200 LSD.

Sounds good, I'm thinking of a stage 2 set up for the head with a 300 deg cam and .560 lift. I'll have it mated to a set of Triple Miki's 44PHH. I'll be using a LD28 crank, unsure on rods still, custom pistons, larger valves in a P90 or N42 head. I'm not too fussed on it being streetable, as long as it's fun! Have you run yours in the 1/4 mile?

Shouldn't need to count the teeth, it should have a stamp on it somewhere like 37:11 or 37:9 I think 37:9 would be a great diff .

I need 260z stub axles to go with my CV joint upgrade I plan to do in the future. So unfortuantely there no good to me.

Is it relatively streetable? how far have you gone with head work?

Curious about the stub axle? Do you only have one? Are they 260z stub axles or 240z? I'm after the 260z ones which apparently have more splines and are stronger.

Hey Lachlan, I loved your car when I saw it in person and I didn't even see the engine compartment. :cheeky: I know you just went through the hassle of converting to manual so based on that I'd say stick with the L-series. You can get a cheap one from a wrecker give it a port polish, use flat tops and install a moderate to wild cam and she'll go alright. However the economy of the engine won't be great compared with more modern EFI and smaller capacity motors. Believe it or not I think an SR20 would be a cool swap. It's light can easily make good power and doesn't cost a packet, plus it's so easy to fit in . In all honestly I've been tempted to do something like that with my Z. Yes I'm very much like Ben a die hard L-series guy but to build a 300 + HP L-series takes alot of time/money and research. If you want drivability, economy, power and something light the SR20 is by far the best choice IMO. I think the RB20 is a waste of time and the RB motors are heavier than the L-series. RB25 head on RB30 block would be a good swap but your loosing economy then.