Gav240z

To be fair I don't know why they stopped doing it in the later export models. But they also didn't do it on the Japanese domestic market vehicles and some of the European markets. For example I've seen a French market 240z which just states engine type L24 (no specific number). I'm not sure if it was specific to markets and regulation around it?

I thought the manual hand throttles were removed upon arrival into North America due to DOT requirements? I didn't know that the undertrays were 'optional' that strikes me as a bit odd, as far as I know every AU market delivered 240z had them new. It's more a case that today they are nearly always missing - due to being removed and not refitted. In Australia we got the hand throttle up through 71 until the console change over - although automatic cars didn't receive them. Only manuals.

I'll get the party started, it's missing an undertray in the engine bay.

The shipping is normally eBay calculated so I don't think the seller will profit from it. I avoid using eBay these days for this reason. Shipping prices are extortionate.

I've found the perfect house to go with the Brown Z's. https://m.realestate.com.au/property-house-vic-park+orchards-140858168 50 shades of beige.

https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/5381-whats-the-difference-between-240z-carbys-and-260z-carbys/?do=findComment&comment=84116 https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/5381-whats-the-difference-between-240z-carbys-and-260z-carbys/?do=findComment&comment=116901 https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/9945-flat-top-carbs/?do=findComment&comment=116889 2 comments worth checking out. I've not had much first hand experience with the later flat top's but I have heard a few people know how to get them to run right and they work well when tuned correctly.

If I get a chance I can look in the Australian Market Parts Manual to see what part no's they quote for these.

Agree, I'd love to slot an S20 motor into 1 of my early HS30's. It's a special bit of engineering, a twin cam engine in 1969 was very exotic equipment and it has plenty of racing pedigree to back it up in the Skyline. The Hagerty segment is full of inaccuracies but 1 thing it does highlight is the sound of that engine at full song! I'm very much about the 432-R look, and I just got myself a set of Kobe Seiko Rally Mag (reproductions from M-speed in 14") to sit on my 240z. I've also acquired over the years Ikeda Bussan seats, Ura Mach wheel, chrome ring head lamp covers etc.. and my red 240z also has the white stripe long the bottom sill of the car. I'd love an S20 engine to complete a similar look to the attached images. The quoted S20 engine power is stock on 40mm Mikuni's, but like the RB26 that came later and was quoted at 280HP as per the gentleman's agreement, I'm fairly sure the purpose of the S20 engine was to modify for tuning and racing and so many cars fitted with S20's are not making 160HP anymore. If it wasn't for the fact that an S20 engine costs so much these days, I'd swap 1 into my Z for sure. In fact at today's prices it kind of makes sense to go for 1 of the Twin Cam L-engine options instead such as the O.S Giken head. Real Deal vs O.S Giken L-head. L engine with O.S Giken twin cam head and cloned S20 valve cover. The real McCoy. I certainly would pay more for an S20 powered S30Z, than an LS powered S30Z.

Many many years ago I test drove a 260z 2+2 with a vinyl roof with my step dad. We both agreed we didn't like it, at the time I told the seller it was the reason I didn't want to buy it. He understood and said it wasn't the best look either, but over time I kind of don't mind it as much as I did back then. I still don't love it, but it is of that era.

I think $30k for such a Z is cheap in today's market. We've been paying much more than that, for much rougher for ages in the HS30 marketplace simply because so few cars are around these days. It's an excellent starting point to jump in and drive and enjoy.

Hi @kats, A place in Australia does the same kind of work and for half the price. https://www.dashboarddoctor.com.au/reskinning-and-restoration For LHD dashboards Hung Vu offers completely new remanufactured dash pads. @theguppies https://www.instagram.com/vintagedashes/?hl=en

Hi Kats, https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/specialist-cars/competition-cars/listing/3756694780 Thought you might like to see this. Looks like an HS30 with Blue / Blue paint and interior combination. This is only the second such HS30 I've come across in my years (now) of collecting HS30 data.

I just bought a pen on eBay and will have it shipped here, I've got a couple of steering wheel horns to restore along with Hitachi Radio surrounds and centre choke assembly finisher panels in my S30Z's. Also my door cards are missing the original chrome vertical line. I was going to try chrome tape, but this might be just as good! If anyone else is looking the code for the product is XGM100 and I found a cool video review showing how good the chrome can look here also.

Cool, I've used a Silver sharpie before for similar but that looks more "chrome" like the original.

I concur that's a long time not to talk.. back on topic, I recently had a shop local to me use a similar machine to the above to set timing on my 240z (E12-80) Hitachi Distributor. They have told me to set 16 degrees of initial timing when I install. And it will have another 16 degrees in mechanical advance. No vacuum. Since I'm running Triple Mikuni 44s. The car has an L28 (E88 head from 71/72 with bigger valves), port work and 10:1 comp ratio (or just abouts). I was having issues with it pinging and advance going all the way out to close to 40 degrees with the current distributor that was recurved many years ago (at a guess by a friend at the time). I haven't tested the new distributor yet, but I'm told it shouldn't 'knock'. We shall see. I also had another distributor rebuilt at the same time for my 71 auto 240z (another Hitachi E12-80 distributor) but we had the vacuum advance kept for the twin SUs + stock L24 engine. It is also set with 16 degree initial but a mix of vacuum and mechanical advance, think that's set for a total of 30 degrees from memory. Again haven't tested it yet, car is still on points distributor and I toyed with keeping it original, but good chance that distributor is worn out and I hate cold starts with points.

I just want to subscribe to follow along. I love seeing details on these cars and learning more about them. I'm curious if this car ran the competition CDI ignition box (Mitsubishi?) orange / white colour? And if so, where they mounted it? Under the dash? Did they run points distributor or have some kind of electronic / reluctor / pickup signal? Oh and any photos of the engine bay yet? Or do we need to wait? 🙂

Running no bonnet? What's with the circular hook on the strut tower? Some interesting things going on with that car.

Kats nearly every L24 I've worked on has had this happen. The brazing just seems to fail due to engien harmonics and then the spray Bar ends up jammed in the corner of the head. I had to fix this on my white 71 240z which is matching #'s and original. I had a spare spray Bar I took out of the motor from HS30 00051. I think it's only a matter of time before that 1 gives up too. I personally don't worry about originality for internal engine pieces that can't be seen like this. I will convert to internally oiled cam when I get the chance. When these fail they cause premature cam wear I think. I can hear a ticking noise that isn't valve / lash adjustment related on my L24. Maybe I just need a louder exhaust?

Good lord, I want that.

@kats not as far as I'm aware.. Attached are scans of a manual I have on hand (which was a Sports Option Catalog) for Australian market owners. You can see the stamps on it show Australian addresses etc.. with the exhaust parts available in the catalog. I do not know of anyone who purchased this stuff sadly. But it's nice to think in the 70s you could buy any of this stuff. Other parts of the catalog show the cross flow LY head etc.. so I just oogle at it all and wish I could collect it all. :). I do have some parts to be fair, as I'm sure a few of us here do.

No problem @kats I am slowly working on restoring them and finding missing parts like the antenna switch that seems to always go missing. I bought 1 the other day but it was actually a later 260z/280z switch which is slightly different thickness (switch itself) and the mounting is a bit different. It could likely be used, but I would rather source another original switch. So they are not going anywhere at this stage. :).

Hi Kats, I found this 1 today on eBay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-AM-Seek-Scan-Radio-70-71-Series-1-OEM-Hitachi-/334457840983 You're right, prices are crazy. If you really want 1, I am sure I could help. Or perhaps we could swap parts? Please feel free to send me a PM.

Does anyone know if you can get replacements for the coolant pipe on the intake manifold? I see you snapped it Kats, as did I on HS30 00150 when I tried to remove it, it was so rusty and fatigued. I don't know if anyone sells replacement parts for them? I've noticed most people block off the coolant running through the intake manifolds. As @26th-Z points out Australian market cars got the clean balance bar and exhaust manifolds from 1970-73. Which looks a lot cleaner. Often mistakingly referred to as "euro" by a lot of Punters.

I think anyone who's spent time working on these cars will appreciate how each component is made or engineered. Having pulled apart the OEM AM radio I was fascinated by the engineering in the mechanical tuner and how intricate it all was (before all that kind of thing was digitised), same for the Harada Antenna and even the combination switch for the headlamps etc.. once you've pulled it apart and repaired it, you gain an appreciation for what went into making the product. Especially considering this was all pre computer aided design. The Rally Clock is next level in terms of the oscillator box, I have had several repaired by Ron at ZClocks and I find them as fascinating piece of technology - albeit temperamental.

Hi Kats, I used to think I love them unrestored also, but it really messes with my OCD. Especially because on my white 71 the paint has flaked off in areas. I'm thinking I'll try and patch and touch it up, but leave it as rough and ready as I can, until the day I can't take it anymore and decide to refinish it properly. The hard part is knowing what parts to restore on it. For example do you replate hardware? Repaint the engine block? Air cleaner? Etc..? Reskin the dashboard?