Gav240z

Okay well since we all have to start somewhere the first thing I'd do is get a Ammeter(multimeter) from your local electronics store so you can test for voltage. Alot of newer cars use a standard wiring colour scheme these days so it's generally easier in these cars. However wiring should only really consists of a primary power + a ground - a battery hookup which is a direct battery connection for memory, an antenna which is probably worthless since most Zeds I know of have a broken electronic aerial. Most new Head units have a built in fuse so you don't need to provide one. The rest is just + and - on each speaker. If you have any more questions just ask as I've done quite a few installs of stereo systems in the past and should be able to help.

I'm not sure if this would help but I'll be looking to build a model of a 240z in 3D studio Max It's been ages since I've modelled anything in MAX but I'm going to do a few tutorials and make it as accurate as possible following some technical drawings will help. I know it's not Autocad but would this be helpful?

I'll second that motion cheap Uni joints break under higher power applications.

Maybe if you kiss the 350z she'll turn into a beautiful princess like the S30 Carl .

I think the main problem with modifications is when people don't spend enough time considering what it will do and if it serves a adventageous purpose. I see many cars that people have just gone and spent money on modifying it for the sake of modifying without really thinking about it. I think alot of it has to do with keeping up with the jones' mentality they all see their friends with the bling rims so they want it too. I would go for the BRE style I think it's very period authentic and it looks great I would be prepared to change rims though and possibly add the rear 432 or BRE style spoiler also. I'm probably going to buy the rear 432 spoiler for my Z and place it on the car and get a good idea of how it will look. You can also use a editing program such as Photoshop to see what it will look like in the end. I did that with my Z if you look in my gallery. I'm the sort of person though who likes a well modified Z and I do like originality but for a car I plan to drive often in the future I'd like to sort a few quirks out and have it perform the way i like. So i guess it's a case of whatever floats your boat.

Thanks for the help everyone I guess the best thing will be for me to take the Z to my mates workshop pull it apart and see what's missing and what exactly I need. I have been pretty busy lately so it will be another couple of weeks away. Cheers everyone.

This is the first one with a small rubber washer part not on the other 3 I have. The other has no inner ring in it not sure if this is the part that the boot connects to? The final is an external shot just for comparison sake.

Yeah thanks again guys I don't mind non original configuration zip ties sound fine. Especially since this isn't a 240z standard item anyway. It's main purpose to me is it's ability to protect the unit more than look good. With the struts I got the guy included the rubber insulators that go into the top of the shock towers. Is this the part I need from a 260z I've included pictures of it below. Looking in the Haynes manual it appears they are slightly different I think i can see the part I need. I think I'll be right if I buy the boots first take a look at them and see what's going on with them. I know the guy who owns a wreckers here who will probably have what I need. I've also got a friend who has a little workshop and he will have a solution i think.

Thanks guys much appreciate the help. I have an older version of the Vic British Catalogue and it's got the KYB Strut Boot it says it fits all shockers. They have them listed at $14.95 says reqd(2) does anyone think this means 2 for $14.95 or only sold as pair for like $30? Either way it's alot better than the other price I was quoted. Looks like mperdue your link to the shop was even cheaper. Curious though 1 thing about these KYB boots. I'll give a quick quote from VB. "KYB Strut Boot and Bump Stops are bonded together forming a tightly sealed integral unit. Bottom collar of boot attaches to top of strut body, sealing piston rod from dust and moisture. Designed to fit all strut and shock types" Now when they say bump stops I'm confused what exactly do they mean by this and how does this form part of the rubber? Apart from that great I've saved some money already by the looks of things just by shopping around. Cheers guys really appreciate the help it is what makes this place so great. Gavin.

Yeah $200 is very pricey I thought especially since I picked up the Tokico Illuminas for $350 AUD to my door. Thanks for the part number I'm sure it would help. I don't suppose it came with the clips? knowing car manufacturers i doubt it. Aftermarket Fork Gaters??? I'm not familiar with this is it a place? a company?

Yes I was told by someone else about the clips thanks all the same. If you could find out the price and part no. I'd really appreciate it I had a look at their online store but I couldn't find them there. I also tried looking on too intense restoration but no luck either. I'm pretty sure i saw it on a website when i was actually looking for the suspension but I can't remember which one. Cheers,

I posted this in the new classifieds section on the website but it's had a whole 1 view since the 9th of May. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=334&sort=1&cat=5&page=1 I'm after the rubber boots that go over the shock absorber and inside the actual spring. They are a simple boot designed to proctect the shocker from Dirt/Dust/Water etc.. I believe they were not on the 240z as standard and possibly first made there way on to the late 260z's and 280z. Does anyone know where I can find them either brand new or second hand? I've been quoted $200 AUD for a set here and think it's a bit steep.

Yeah I'm glad I didn't buy the Koni reds now. Not that I was going to anyway I think they were way overpriced. I've heard very good things about Steve Newing would be a good idea to get him involved with VicZcar somehow. I've seen a few sets on ebay and since they usually say to suit a 240z I think I'd be right. I haven't noticed bump steer problems in my Z either but I'd like to do it and just see if i can notice any difference afterwards. The springs in my Z were put there before I got it. $130 is expensive considering I can find a set for <$50 AUD.

Just for the front and about $80 US which i thought was a pretty good price.

yeah Mr C i see your point of view. However some clarification on as to why there would be such a limit or restriction. It's really quite simple when you have an image of that size it takes up alot of extra disk space on the server. As a website admin myself it's I understand it's important for these sorts of rules in order to ensure you don't run out of space and also you have to ask is it really necessary to be uploading such a high resolution image? When in most cases 1024 * 768 pixels is more than adequete. Also take into account some people have older machines with crappy Video Cards that would struggle to display large images.

I have a few questions about lowering a car myself. thehelix112 do you know if King springs make any other type of spring for the 240z? Are the ones you got the only ones available? I ask because the previous owner of my car told me they were king springs in the car and they are coloured yellow . I do not know if he modified the strut housing to accomodate for the suspension travel if I indeed have the same springs as thehelix112. This i will look at when i install my new Tokico Illuminas I bought. I also plan on eventually installing a coil over set up with new springs. I guess my main question here is with regard to roll centre adjusters or bump steer spacers as they are also known. If someone can explain to me exactly why you need them after lowering your car and the advantage of installing them I'd love to know. I know where I can get some and was tempted to buy them but I have no idea how important they are? Cheers, Gavin. :pirate:

Yeah SU's are great carbs I didn't know how good they were till i went in a mates 3.1ltr L28 just running SU's one of the few cars I've been in that throws you back into your seat on take off. That's why I'll never understand the single carbie change over.

Cool I'll be sure to check it out. It's probably more focused on the 510's and other 4 Banger Datto's but still should be good to read.

Yeah not a fan for these.

Yeah good find apparently that sort of thing is easy to find in japan. I know a guy who went and found a few R200's 4.11 Ring gear price was okay but shipping is the killer. Well done all the same.

I had the same problem with incorrectly adjusted points. On my old 260z when i replaced the points i had to play with my points setting and use my feeler gauge to correctly set them. I would highly recommend regraphing a ZX distributor. It's not as easy as just swapping weights and vacuum advance mechanisms. From what I've seen the Vacuum advance diaphram on the points dizzies do not retract on their own and need a spring to return them. The later ZX ones return by the Diaphram alone. Also the weights and springs in the bottom of the distributor all play a part in the advance of the car. You need to know what your doing in order to set these right to match your camshaft profile etc.. A friend of mine is a bit of a wizard with the distributors and he helped me set mine up. As a result the firing order in my car is different to standard. You can just swap over the ZX dizzy but the car doesn't advance very well and drives a bit sluggish. If you do go with a ZX unit check for shaft play and see if it easily spins.

yeah i might give it a try first i need a spare set though. As long as it can be reversed at a later stage I'm happy with any mod. White faces with green lights would have to look cool too. I was just trying to see what other purists thought of the idea. For me it seems a little ricey but i really like the look of Autometer gauges in a Z however i don't have the $$$ right now for those. PS thanks for the typo correction Mr C I keep doing it bad habbit.