Gav240z

Hi Folks, I may have found a source for arrow tip antenna pieces. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173930578522?hash=item287f12025a:g:LoEAAOSwh7ZdAEU3 Seller: https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/bozzas5?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 I've just ordered 1 on a bit of a punt, will see when it arrives how good it is or close to original. Even though I'm not missing the tips on mine, I have more than 1 240z in need of an antenna and may come across a broken mast/missing tip (common). So this could be helpful.

View Advert WTB: TM-1081ZB(S) antenna switches Hi Folks, Anyone got a surplus of these switches they are looking to sell? I've got a few TM-1081ZB(S) radio's I'm restoring and I'd like to complete them with the switches. How many have you got? Thanks, Gavin. Advertiser Gav240z Date 06/24/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240z  

I've seen very similar looking wheels on older Ferraris and Fiats of the same period. So it was definitely part of the style of that era. Look up Cromodora wheels. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/ferrari-dino-cromodora-wheels-14x6-1-2/

Yeah "Cha Bu Duo" basically. 😄 I once bought a Guitar second hand off a so-called collector... It appeared genuine in every sense of the word. I still have the photos of it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ZSeZFcdnZPfjh7M7 Notice how it has a serial number, Epiphone Branding, and it even came with a little Epiphone Brochure. For all intents and purposes it looks the same, certainly in photos it still looks impressive. I was naive and it was my first electric guitar (still a learner at the time and still am really), but not knowing much about setting up the action or how good pickups should sound I tested it and it seemed ok (the amp was small and not great) so it was hard to really know if it was "kosher" or not. Anyway after a while I was a bit frustrated with it and took it to my guitar teacher who said the 'action' on it (usually defined by how the strings sit against the fretboard was all off) and it wasn't nice to play. He suggested I take it to get set up right. I take it to a specialist to have to re-configured. He calls me and say "where did you get this guitar from?" I said I bought it off a guy on the Internet second hand - he said he was a collector. He goes on to explain the guitar is not very good and there isn't much that can be done to fix it. He also said it looks like it's made of chipboard type wood.. as oppose to Rosewood. Also the pickups and pots were of interior quality. Sure enough if you look at the photos you can see the Chipboard under the pickups. So I sent photos to Epiphone / Gibson and they confirmed it was indeed a fake. Turns out a lot of places in China that make the official good version for some big American brands of guitar, also as mentioned sometimes have another factory in parallel churn out the "fakes" at a much lower standard but pass them off as legit. It's a huge mess for these companies who then have to try and stop the behavior. Of course the fella I bought the guitar off had no knowledge of the guitar being a fake and pretty much washed his hands of it. True or not, I was down 400 euros and ended up giving the guitar away.. Just my experience with such situations.

Happy to add my 2 cents, especially since I've been asked to join in. I read this thread last night and was trying to make sense of it. @Sean Dezart - You messaged me about posting these wheels on my own forum (www.viczcar.com). But before I gave you the go ahead, I wanted to know more about these wheels and the product before giving you the go ahead for several reasons. I recall seeing someone in Eastern Europe offering the M-speed style wheels for literally half the price of what M-speed were charging elsewhere. Naturally this seemed too good to be true. Subsequently there was discussion around the person offering these wheels and how they were so cheap? From what I could ascertain before the listings were removed from Marketplace is that they were squirrelled out of the backdoor of the same factory M-speed had commissioned to cast them in China. Bypassing M-speed who had done all the ground work in bringing them to market. You started offering the style of wheels (The Kobe Seiko Rally Mags (wide) and 432 spec (narrow)) a few weeks later. I asked you if you had gone to the effort of reproducing the wheels or if they were M-speed and you were distributing for them, but I didn't get a clear answer. This photo of the "Made in" and the rest appears ground off.. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64479-parts-for-sale-4x-reproduction-nissan-fairlady-z432-wheels-in-aluminum/?do=findComment&comment=606678 To me it looks like you're trying to obfuscate where they have come from or who made them for that matter, but why do that? Anyway, why does it matter where they came from or where they are made? Simple, M-speed spent a lot of money, time and R&D to bring these wheels to market, so whatever price they charge is their business and they should be able to charge whatever price they want. The market will tell them if it's too expensive or not. If you were to commission the same wheels, do the same R&D and decide to offer them at half the price of M-speed, that would be fair. Nobody would be complaining. But what you're doing is taking the hard work and capital that M-speed has kicked into this project and undercut them, but this also creates another downstream problem. Determining which wheels are from M-speed and which ones are posing as M-Speed. It may also deter companies like M-speed from doing similar projects in future as a result and as a community we all lose out when that happens. Q. How do you know the ones sold to you direct from the factory are of the same quality as the ones M-speed is selling? Has it not occurred to you that M-speed may have many batches of wheels sent to them for testing before selling them to the wider market and a bunch of those wheels may be discarded after QC because of the Chinese attitude of "Cha Bu Duo"? Or that the wheels commissioned by M-speed must be done to a higher standard and strength and materials (alloys used must be higher quality), and since they are charing M-speed more for this standard that's fine, but if they are selling them out the back door or via Alibaba marketplace then just Cha Bu Duo will do? Example of wheel testing in Japan on Weds Wheels https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJeFB6SRslk This is why I have concerns about the wheels myself, since I'm not sure what testing has been done and if you are checking any of these wheels yourself for quality and standards. Let's face it the people who want these wheels are probably looking to mount them on cars they have invested a lot of money into and the last thing they want when driving at 100km/h and hitting a pot hole is to have a wheel crack in half on them and cause them to crash or injure themselves. I'm also going through the process of potentially making Kobe Seiko wheels (yes I will call them replicas) but in 15x8 +0 spec. As you know I have 3 'original' Kobe Seiko magnesium wheels in my possession. 1x wide and 2x narrow. We have had the wide version scanned already, but scanning was simple. The next step was to convert that rough scan into a more 'solid' CAD version and tidy up the roughness of the scan itself. Then extrapolate the spokes to make it 15" and widen it to 8". You can see this in the images here. My partner and I (in this venture) have already invested quite a bit of money to get the project to this stage. The next stages will include what's known as FEA (Finite Element Analysis) which involves VSB14 and the standards for the wheels are to be made to comply with: AS 1638-1991 and ISO 3006:2015 (or a more updated version if there is 1). I believe this will be equivalent to the Japanese industry certification that Alan was referring to, but in Australia. Once we get through all of that, it will be onto sourcing high grade alloy material and working with a local foundry to start casting wheels. We still don't know what it will cost to turn out the first wheel, but I'm guessing it won't be cheap. In part because we are not going to go the China route like everyone else. I believe this thread is a good reason why, but also we will have more control over quality and quantity produced. But also we will be employing locals and local industry keeping skills local. I actually think you'd be better off becoming an M-speed distributor rather than trying to undercut them. This is because anyone who has an interest in these wheels is likely to also have an interest in quality items being fitted to their car and not likely wanting to risk it by fitting Cha Bu Duo spec wheels to their car. If you were to contact the local foundry in Australia that helps me produce my own wheels looking to buy direct from them, then I'd want them to tell you to go away as Alan mentioned. Since they are contracted to produce a wheel where I own the casting mould or buck and have invested in that capital / tooling to produce them. The foundry was paid to make the wheel for myself (and partner) not so they can take that design / pattern and go make 1000s of them to sell on eBay etc..

That looks fantastic to me. Are you thinking of offering them for sale? Given the amount of antenna motors I see on eBay missing the antenna itself (broken) I'd say being able to offer a repair option with the cool looking arrow tip (my opinion) could be a winner?

I managed to get the mast out using this penetrating liquid. But I cannot extend all parts of the mast. I can extend a few but not all.. I tried putting more liquid wrench into the mast itself and left it a few days but still didn't work. I also couldn't remove the mast tube from the body either.. I've tried a propane torch to heat it and penetrating fluid but so far no joy... any other ideas? I also got thinking about potential mast replacements.. for the arrow tip... A few are on eBay for $16. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Antenna-AM-FM-Radio-Replacement-Mast-Cable-Cord-For-95-98-Nissan-240SX/323185742673?epid=20017502835&hash=item4b3f5f1351:g:JTkAAOSwnklawuIx This 1 looks close... https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-POWER-ANTENNA-ROD-MAST-FOR-NISSAN-240SX-300ZX-MAXIMA-STANZA-1989-1996/223859901620?hash=item341f1704b4:g:IQYAAOSwydpeIpFN https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Antenna-Aerial-AM-FM-Radio-Replacement-Mast-Cord-92-03-Mitsubishi-Diamante/133089766376?hash=item1efcc4abe8:g:7~EAAOSwiuFepPQC If these are made of stainless could you dremmel them into an arrow tip shape? As a potential replacement? I'm thinking if this is made of stainless you could shave it down (to required profile) and then polish it up again ?

Hi Folks, 1 thing I'll note is that we often refer to these Antenna's as Harada made, but I bought 1 from Yahoo! Japan a while ago that I suspect is a Clarion unit. I've attached photos of 1 on there now. I mention it because it's got the "arrow" tip antenna that we often say is an early S30Z thing, but I suspect the arrow tip antenna's came on later S30Z's in Japan also. As they seem a lot more plentiful there. https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/x673873132?conversionType=browsing_history I don't know if this makes any difference what so ever in terms of the rebuild process or how they are made? But just including it as an FYI. I do wonder if these are made by Clarion under licence like the Fuel pump was originally a "nikki" but later I note "atsugi" on them and other brands cast into parts.

Hey Kats, thanks for the laugh, I'm glad you like that song. Filmed in my home town of Melbourne streets too! Of course the local school yard variant was "It's a long way to the shops if you want a sausage roll". Which was the quintessential lunch time snack. How about going to a local aquarium for filter tube? https://www.ebay.com.au/i/122870227473 My old hose is very brittle, kind of like the windscreen washer jet tubes! So I'd be looking at something like this, for a transparent tube. Ok, so I have a question. I'm half way through tearing mine apart. Unfortunately the plastic retainer that sits on top of the nylon mast cord snapped, despite my best efforts to remove it in 1 piece, it was fused in. Perhaps you guys have suggestions on how to remove it without breaking it the next time I do this? (I have a couple of antennas). Where I'm stuck? I cannot remove the mast from the antenna motor body. It seems fused together. I removed the screws at the base of the mast but no idea how to separate the 2? Any tips so I don't damage it? Also the antenna itself, I can get the top part to extend and the bottom, but all the incremental steps in between seem to have fused together and each "step" won't extend further. I was going to try applying heat from a propane torch, not sure if this is a bad idea on alloy though? Photos of what I've managed to pull apart here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wote3a8HA4PX4Why6 Any suggestions are welcome.

It's definitely a TM-1081ZB(S) radio. Out of early 240z. Let me know if you have any RF Chokes / Fuse Assemblies you can part with?

Thank you Zup. That looks like the right globe. I'll double check the measurements. Any ideas on the RF choke and spring?

RE: #3 the globe. Attached is a photo of it, you can see I broke it when I accidentally dropped it on a tile floor. It looks similar to the BA9's in the Gauge Clusters but the bayonet is a bit different? Perhaps that doesn't matter? Anyone know if you can get green LEDs to replace it or another suitable alternative?

I'm not sure I see the merit in restoring to include the defective diff position myself. Although I understand wanting to be "original". But for me it's like keeping the oiler bar when they later had the internally oiled cam design which was better and for the most part both won't be seen once installed.. In terms of hard to find parts. Ashtray's (early ones) because they were made of bakerlite plastic and so no reproduction exists. 1 drop and they shatter into a bajillion bits. I also think the original sound deadening material cut to appropriate shapes would be great. (I think material still exists but you gotta cut to spec). Original Jute underlay and loop pile carpets are another..(still haven't found great sources for those). Then rear 1/4 panels, roof skins and rear valance sections would really kick things along.

I would probably just replace them also, depends how much you need to skim off them and what the minimum thickness is after that. Deep pitting will be a problem.. Half the issue here will be that undoing a lot of badly rusted stuff can be frustrating and take hours.. If the calipers have seized pistons etc.. it might be easier to start with better ones, but the main suspension components will come up good after a blast and powdercoat.

I think the libre's/libra's on there look 100x better than the rota's. Just lower the ride height a bit more..

@Kats I'm not 100% sure the A vs B model designation only applies to the colour of the globe, but so far that's what I've observed. The A seems to be fitted to earlier car. Nearly every radio I've found from an Australian delivered car has a Green led. The only red 1 I have was from eBay and out of an early North American market HLS30. To update my progress here: I just finished restoring a radio or re-plating the hardware that arrived battered and bruised. Video of it working here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/VonPvkZ95MR1McA46 My question for Greg or anyone else here, is where can you get the RF Chokes from? Does anyone have a suitable supply? I'm referring to the little coil thing that sits next to the glass fuse in the plastic fuse holder and the spring with it ideally. Pictured below (with a spring, any idea where to find the spring also?).. Good news is I found the fuse holder here for purchase. https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7920455 I have the reproduction stickers thanks to Greg earlier in this thread. I think this is the right OEM power and speaker loom connector here. http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/66 I also have reproduction faceplates and knobs..thankfully. So to finish my radio's restoration off I just need to find: 1. The spring that goes inside the fuse holder. 2. RF Choke itself (coil thing pictured above) - That suppresses unwanted noise. 3. A suitable operating globe (green / ignition switch light) - not the operating light LED itself (on front panel). I shamefully dropped the globe by accident and it shattered so need to source a replacement, even an LED with Green condom over it would be suitable. Just need to know the size or what others have used? Any suggestions on where to get these 3 items would be very much appreciated..

Alan what should a Portuguese market S30Z suffix be?

Ha, I've been watching his channel because of his Skyline content. A fellow Australian :).

Thanks Kats, I knew about the home market steering wheels being shallower than the export market cars. I agree it was likely for leg room. But I couldn't really tell in the photos. :). I didn't know about the horn button changes. I knew that there was "blue" (non 432 engined S30Z's) and "red" which this car had, but I didn't know about the horn icon. As you know our export market cars just had "DATSUN" on them. I couldn't see the keys property, buy my early 240z (HS30-00150) has a "garage" position on the ignition switch. Still not sure what that does? Do you know? What is the difference between early and later dashboards in the home market? I know North American cars had the hazard switch moved about, but AU market cars didn't come with hazards and the dashboard is basically the same from 1970-73.

What about ashtray lid, early ones had a longer handle. I can't tell for sure but this looks like a later style lid.

Looks like a hooded map light, early ones are flat. The oil pressure and coolant temp gauges look like later style ones. Early ones had different ranges and a delimiter in the middle. Later ones had no center delimiter.

HS30 00150 - Original glass has same stamping (non tinted glass).

On my car HS30 00150 it was silver.. Here is what was left of it.

Haha, thanks. I'll add it to the list of things I need to ship with you from Europe -> Australia. But being glass it will need to be carefully packaged. It makes sense it was a "Deluxe" model option though, Australian spec cars were quite spartan in many ways. Didn't even get Hazard switches until the 260z! I just like the "busy" look on an early car like the photo below shows. Yes @Mike B I think was asking me about them. I took photos of the 1 from HS30 00150 and it's exactly the same stamping etc.. not rare at all over here. So I'm sure you'd find someone willing to swap for a frosted glass version. I believe the defrost glass was "optional" but only ever seen 1 or 2 here in HS30's. We all want what we can't have!

Funny enough all AU market cars had the clear glass. I actually want the vertical defrost glass. It was later I discovered the early 69 build cars had the clear glass only in North America.