Gav240z

Tricky question L24 had 2 heads on a 240z anyway a E31 E88 L26 to my knowledge only had the later E88 The early Z's had the L24 E31 combo high compression. The 72 Z had the first gen E88 same as E31 High Compression Bigger exhaust valve. The L26 E88 combo was a lower compression version of the 72 Z head. So really it didn't flow any better than a later Z head and the loss in compression probably meant it wasn't as good but in terms of flow yes better make sense? If you wanna confuse the situation further take into account other cars with L24 and L26 engines... eg: skyline. The main point is any L series head can flow well with the right work done the P90 being the best to begin with and the N42 close second. The P79 had round ports less desirable. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/ under cylinder heads. BTW have you tried the search function on the site? This is a topic that comes up alot, Gav:classic:

Well if you can do it without removing the shroud your pretty good I'd say . once u get rid of that just a 10mm spanner i think from memory or was it 8mm :cheeky: .

Been reading the "How to modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine" By Frank Honsowetz. Reading about valves and their head shape. It says you can get stock valves that have been modified (Numerically Controlled) in the way they are machined. It gives a part number 99996-N1100. I am wondering if anyone knows if these still exist and if so is it worth trying to get a set and paying $$$ or just getting a reputable machinist to cut stock ones the same way? Good book BTW. Gav

She would have the hour glass figure for sure. Who said high maintenance was it you 2many? Maybe high maintenance but at least she's not too expensive she just likes being given attention. She likes having her carbs and valves adjusted. Nationality is not important she's sexy all over the world. Angelina Jolie said in gone in sixty seconds "always was a sucker for a red head" well look at my avatar. Although i don't dig the red heads much in real life . Anyway I can't out perve victor on this one. :tapemouth

Webbers and SU's. Depends if you know what your doing. You can get the SU's to flow plenty for any street application. On the race track the Webbers are the better option but if you don't get them set up right ie: overcarb then you could reduce performance. The SU's are a very good carb in good hands and are very simple also much better on fuel for suburban style driving. Oh and not to mention a good carb to begin with because they are very simple to work on.:cheeky:

Sorry i may have read bits of your post incorrectly in my previous statement about fuel pump. With a rebuild it depends on if you wanna do any extra while it's apart.

Since all i have worked on in terms of Z's is non FI cars here is what could be the problem. The first thing I would think is fuel starvation jerking like you describe especially above certain RPM's would mean a fuel issue. The fuel pump is one i think you didn't take into consideration so maybe just check it's putting out enough PSI i think for FI it's about 30psi could be wrong i know carbed is only around 3-5psi. You might not wanna overlook distributor problems, I know the shaft can sometimes suffer wear and cause problems above certain rpms, i think it's slipping as a result of the worn shaft. It will be electronic so just check the rotor button and the cap are ok. How about spark plugs are they black or grey? This will let you know a few things. I wouldn't go blaming the ECU just yet. You've done the other minor maintenance issues and sounds like your fairly confident i think you should be able to find the problem relatively easy. Anyone else wanna chime in here?:cheeky:

how sad this thread is!!!!!!

I took this from Zgarage easier than retyping it and pretending I'm the all mighty know it all :cheeky: . ENGINE FAN CLUTCH IS LOUD This is when you car sounds like a hovercraft when accelerating. The round, finned viscous fan clutch is seized. But rather than spend bucks on a new or rebuilt one, fix it yourself. Simply take the fan and clutch off the car, unbolt the two halves, tap them apart, spray it out with brake cleaner, and refill the deeper half with 90 weight gear oil. The original oil dries/leaks out over the years. But don't worry, it's not full of springs or anything, it a simple design and bolts back up easily. Did it on mine and it went from almost seized to spinning freely. A better fix is to simply take the whole assembly completely off. You can then add electric fans on the radiator. This will free up a couple of horsepower, and make the engine rev much more quietly. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html

man next time i get a jack adapter plate for the transmission i about broke my back lifting it while i was under the car from my side. I really struggled I'm not a tall bloke or even that masculin well I'd like to be a bit more buffed. So i'd say hire one or buy a transmission jack I know i will next time. Gav PS: I also wanna buy truck stands to lift the car a bit higher off the ground I find the clearance from the normal stuff is pathetic.