Gav240z

Kilowatts or KW is the metric unit or something similar i believe you would take say 150HP and divide by 1.3 to give you a KW rating.

Well first off I think BHP stands for Brake Horse Power. Most (if not all) manufacturers measure horse power at the flywheel. Back before the government put a regulation in place manufacturers could measure horse power of a motor with all accessories off and in a controlled atmosphere ie: to read highest output so the US government instroduced a law stating they had to give a more accurate reading and therefore BHP was introduced.

It's unfortunate I know but in Australia I rarely see any for sale i think I've seen one and the guy wanted $1200 and to me it's not worth that much money. I will try find out how much things like this cost to ship out maybe I can get a few guys to buy one and shipping in bulk could be cheaper who knows??? :disappoin

Knowing that they are fairly heavy how much do you think it would be to ship these? I currently have some money saved so I'd be ready for one but if not for a while I'll blow my money on something else .

anyone thinking of sending a $40 crank to Australia I'll pay . Even after shipping and converting it's damn cheap. :cheeky: Pretty Please Please Please.

Just a final thought the IT car you got the carbs from was it 2.8ltr or 2.4ltr? If 2.8ltr the needles and seats could have been changed to accomodate for the bigger engine size resulting in a rich mixture. Most likely choice would have been SM needles from Ztherapy. Try get a hold of a normal L24 size needle and seat for each and try that. Gav.:cheeky:

How much PSI is the fuel pump rated at? How are your fuel lines are they ok condition wise? Sounds like too much fuel if it bogs. Do you get smoke out the back? Best way is to open throttle at night infront of another cars headlights . You have got a new set of SU's what condition are they in? The seats could be worn in the carbs allowing too much fuel in even if you set them leaner. Check the throttle shafts if you spray carb cleaner around them does the engine revs rise? If so the throttle shafts need to be rebushed as they are leaking causing incorrect balance. Perhaps try driving around with the bonnet slightly open so it will let the heat out does it still act up? How about the dashpots do they rise nice and evenly if not that could cause problems. If none of those we will try your ignition set up. Also could help alot of you provide a pic of your engine bay and it's current set up. Cheers. Gav,

Is this the one in hawthorn with a custom made centre console? If so i had a read looks to be a good car from description but in all honestly as the others said definately get under the car and have a poke around. If you can get a hold of the PO have a word for sure. Also I'm the in Hawthorn area daily for school as I attend Swinburne uni there. I could come have a look at some stage with you, Gav,

Great stuff guys. I don't know if you knew or not but we are doing something similar here in Melbourne. http://www.viczcar.com or http://viczcar.com/ There are a few things to be sorted first but we bought the domain name to coinside with your club in WA. We have quite a few really neat Z's in our group hopefully we can all get together soon and do some photos for you. :classic:

Really sorry i have absolutely no idea. I have never owned an automatic but if your desperate to know i guess i could call someone or ask a mate who has worked on many Z cars. Otherwise just pull a shaft out of a junk yard Z with a manual transmission.

Great Alan many thanks for that. I believe only 6 of those Daytona coupe's were ever built. I have one question where do you acquire these pictures and documentation from? I'd love to look into this stuff more, it's great learning the history of all these cars. :classic:

I'd feel bad having my way with other Z's .

not that the R380's were 2 ltr or were they?

You never told us what happened with the Daytona Coupe I've always loved those cars and thought that the big V8 would have stomped all over the 2ltr cars.

Ok to start with i haven't attempted to switch engine heads. The situation was that I originally saw a carbie fed turbo set up for sale at my nearby wrecker and was tempted to buy as the guy who owned it was doing an RB26 conversion. Anyway I changed my mind because I didn't want the hassle of a carbie turbo as there just no quite reliable enough. So the owner of the wrecker who had a 240z himself had just pulled the motor he was running out of his car. It was a N42 Block flat tops installed. A E88 head with porting and N42 valves, 76 degree camshaft, running tripple webbers. I think someone once told me the motor was 250HP worth. Anyway my current car has a F54 Block E88 Head(From a 72Z) with port work and bigger n42 valves. The owner said it was 200HP but he was running tripples himself but a milder camshaft. Anyway the car's valve stem seals well so i believe are shot so she blows a bit of smoke. I was originally gonna replace the valve stem seals and install a larger camshaft at the same time but I was told the one being sold at the wreckers had the top end reco'd recently and to put a bigger cam in my car i'd be up around $700 by the time i've done lash pads etc.. So for $450 I bought the other recently reco'd engine head in the theory that my block is still good. Compression results show 180PSI across all 6 cylinders. Anyway it's definately possible it's in my garage and I've been driving it for nearly 2 years now. There were some detonation problems I was having with the car at one stage but this was because of poor timing and the old module on the side of my electronic distributor failed. I believe it was causing poor ignition I always run premium and where i can between 95-98 octane. Shell Optimax or better yet Mobil fuel here is really good with this engine. I have been wanting to swap engine heads but haven't done so yet due to being busy with work and just starting Uni. I also wanted to build a stroker motor so wasn't sure if it was worth investing money in this motor further. Things are all up in the air. Yep it sounds great alright the dual mufflers are a bit loud but I live with it . Oh and btw a N42 is probably yes better to begin with but back in the days when the two motors I have were built you couldn't just get a N42 from a wrecked 280zx so this was the way to go. The high quench design of the E88 small chamber is good also for higher compression. However I don't know lots about the N42 I do understand there a good engine head however.:cheeky:

I can see your point and I'm glad your going all the way with the restoration. I guess I'm not that purist just yet hehe. If I had another car myself I guess I wouldn't mind going without the stereo as the Z doesn't really need one it's that much fun to drive. I recently installed a stereo in the car but to my dismay the sound quality wasn't as good as the car it came from probably the sound deadening as you say. Ah well it will do for now no biggie. :classic: . Oh so am i to understand that the original radio could power the antenna(my other question). Did the Z come with an electric powered antenna stock?

no wonder no stereo seems to fit right in the slot. The original has a diagonal curve towards the bottom . So are you guys gonna keep the stock radio in your Z? Personally it's not my cup of tea but I drive mine sometimes daily although alot less these days.