Gav240z

Is that driveshaft painted (top 1) or stripped of all paint and in it's raw metal form?

By the way Kats I found the following online courses really useful. https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/learn-how-to-build-engines/ They are in English and a little expensive, but put together well.

Some bolts also stretch when torque is applied and should not be re-used. I don't know about factory bolts in that case, but the ARP ones may be reusable? I agree with Alan, it would be good to give rebuilding an S20 a go. That's where all the fun is!

According to my GRS30 engine bay ID plate that's correct. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/gallery/image/7430-img_20181103_181003jpg/ I agree, I think it could have been a great GT car. Speaking of 2/2's what is the perception of them in Japan? It seems many people turn their noses up at the extended roof line. Having owned and driven both I liked my 2+2. The shape isn't quite as beautiful, but it was still a fantastic car and I would say in some ways a better handling more stable car. I thought you might already have a copy, I have a hard copy and PDF (I sent you). It is very useful.

https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/nissandatsun_parts?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Warren from All Z Parts in Sydney / Hornsby would be the person to ask. He bought up a lot of Nissan's Old Stock years ago when it was going for a song and paid peanuts. He's been stuck with it and low balling S30Z tight arses ever since. It's made him somewhat cranky. Last time I called he told me off. It was Grand Final day (I'm not a football fan). He can be slow and difficult to get things through, but I generally have had success buying hard to find items through him. He does list on eBay from time to time.

Ok so I should be in bed sleeping, but when I find stuff like this I just want to write it down whilst it's still fresh. 1. That 260z 2+2 I linked to earlier was a low VIN# GRS30. Full album of photos I collected here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CWdhoXxY9WjdXoKE2 "Datsun 260 z 2+2 built date 5/1974,,,80,000 kms original" Now people mess up build date all the time here, I suspect it's compliance date. Which is found on a plate fixed in the engine bay upon arrival into Australia making the build date probably closer to March 1974 or thereabouts... I don't have the VIN # itself. But if you look at the engine bay you'll see: (best photos I have I'm afraid). a.) No charcoal canister b.) No airpump (or at least I can't see 1) If the above parts manual is correct, then it makes sense since it was introduced April 76, but what about the charcoal canister? Which appears to have started in 09/74. So that means early 260z's in Australia got the flat tops, but no charcoal canister and no air pump until later in 1974.

Hey Kats, RE: Emission systems on AU market S30Z's. It looks like we got the Airpump in April 1976. My 75 260z had a charcoal canister, I am fairly sure. I will need to double-check. I thought that was part of emissions, but it may have been part of the climate control system in the dash? I'll send you a PM with a link to the PDF for HS30 parts manual.

Any idea what freight would cost to Compton, CA 90220? I'd be interested in both the 260z date stamped wheels and 280z ones you have listed (all 4). Shipped together.

Very similar to the late E88(e) head found on L24 blocks (MR30 skylines) here, in terms of combustion chamber design. But has the bigger valves. Shame they are round port heads on exhaust side. Kind of limits header options!

Yep Gareth is right, RB30 crank needs considerable modification however once you machine an LD28 crank it's kind of negligible costs wise.. between the 2. LD28 blocks are indeed taller and may be an advantage in that regard, however only way to know how good it is sonic test for bores and see how much "meat" is left in the walls. Although not directly related to the L-series (applies to RB30's), this may give some idea as to which blocks are best.. (They look at RD28's) which is probably similar to the LD28 block (which is likely to be thicker due to being a Diesel motor and casting) but I've never tested.

You forgot the best car Kats, the FD RX-7 :). 1 of the most beautiful cars of the era (if not the most beautiful in my humble opinion). The only modern sports car in Japan I've seen with the fender mirrors has been the RE Amemiya Super G RX-7 kit. Love how Orido puts the Civic into the weeds here ? RE: The Gentleman's agreement of 280PS, I am pretty sure they were ALL over this power figure but never dyno'd each car to confirm it's true "stock" power. There was a similar issue in Australia in the 70s as we kept building more and more powerful muscle cars (with inadequate brakes and suspension/handling to go with it). A Journalist wrote an article that changed the direction of such cars forever. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercar_scare It resulted in the stillborn Ford Falcon Phase 4 GTHO. These homologation specials were really race cars dressed up as street cars. It's not just Japan with strict laws re: modification of vehicles. In Australia you can be issued with a defect notice for removal of the standard airbox and replacing it with pod filters (unenclosed in a box). Also non-recirculating blow off valves are a no no (since they vent to atmosphere) and could disrupt MAF/MAS readings (so the story goes). So it's supposedly emissions related. A lot of the rules don't make sense, some of them do (waste-gates should be plumbed back in, no screamer pipes thank you!). PS: Kats I love your old Silvia, very hard to find a clean example like that today. That dashboard cluster is unique, I'm not used to seeing the digital readout etc.. is that a special option? In Australia you see a lot of Holden's rebadged as "Chevy's" because of the LS motor's and the wannabe status. It's a good way to attract the wrong attention from the Police etc.. however.

How about vapour blast, given they are made of alloy? Leaves a nice shot peened like finish and seals the surface to some extent against contamination plus it won't rub off like paint? It's what I used on my SU Carbs.

The flat top HMB46 carbs are very misunderstood. Nobody takes the time to properly understand their operation and therefore people think ditching them is the solution. Unfortunately the internet being want it is, it means once a rumour and story takes hold it gets repeated often enough that people believe it's the truth. Hence many have been thrown out over the years unnecessarily..sad really.

Hey Kats, Here is a 74 model year 260z 2+2 delivered to Australia. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LpRw6YwZb9AyAKjD9 It's a bit of a time capsule so a good example of an original engine bay. Interestingly I don't see the charcoal canister. However my 75 2+2 did indeed have the charcoal canister. I can try and look in the HS30 parts manual for Australian/NZ to see when those emission items were introduced if you're interested?

AU market 240z's never had it, we got the "early style" airbox for all years 70-73. 73 AU market engine bay here. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/gallery/image/6314-no-caption/ You can tell it's a 73 because of the choke cable bracket on the far right and the throttle linkage in the middle of later SU's has an extra safety bracket. See more images of car here. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/profile/101180-specialp3/?tab=node_gallery_gallery We didn't get the airpump and all that gear until 1974 with the introduction of the 260z in Australia and flat top carbs etc..We got round tops all the way until the 240z finishes in 1973.

Sadly it will probably be a better long term "investment" money wise... but I love the shape of the S30Z and Z432 is a dream car to own for me. :)

VHT Cast Iron enamel also looks good! On these MK63 4 pots. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15738-sumitomo-fia-mk-63-caliper-pistons/?do=findComment&comment=196389

Did you convert a Turbo RB20 or non Turbo RB20? I like the Z432-R 'look' now you just need the Ikeda Bussan seats to match! https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11823-evie-1972-datsun-240z/?do=findComment&comment=188566 They are not too comfortable though.

Can't tell if serious?

Yes it's kind of like a stud welder, but I'd say far milder. https://www.easybeat.com.au/easybeat-model-3000-car-truck-body-dent-pulling-ma I haven't tried it on the rear 1/4 panels, perhaps they are very thin like you say due to the amount of stretch they would go through via the pressing process? I did have issues using it on the rear hatch once, but that was because I had thinned the metal out a bit already (via angle grinder with flap disc) and we were using a body file to knock down high spots etc.. it did blow a tiny hole. That's when I stopped and decided a small amount of filler may be more appropriate. (gotta learn what not to do sometimes). I agree long thin dollies and perhaps a "slapper" would be another option (if you are not working on the panel off the car).

That is truly lovely!

Use an easy beat to pull out the dings... it uses a tiny weld at the tip and then you use a slide hammer to pull it out. Useful for tricky areas like this with limited access. RE: The original post, these are definitely aftermarket 1/4 panels. Not sure why someone would go to the effort of making the lower half only. Why not do the whole section? I have a couple of NOS rear 1/4 panels, investigating scanning them and reproducing entire rear 1/4's. Seems a lot of S30Z's could be saved if we had those options. Shame about HLS30 00059.. I can promise HS30 00051 won't end up the same!

Interesting, 1 thing I noticed about all my S30Z's is they have the same smell too! I always thought it was the smell of the vinyl and jute materials, coupled with the dashboard and interior plastics. I love the smell, it's takes me back to 1997 when I got my first 240z as a 17 year old boy who had worked with my uncle as a bricklayer over my summer holiday from school to pay for it. It's funny but I always worried that using reproduction materials wouldn't reproduce the same smell... I definitely think it's the aged vinyl, because I have a box with spare vinyl pieces and when I open it I get hit with the same smell. My 70 is stuck in the garage without driver side door glass and rear hatch (so the interior is open to air) and as a result the smell has left it. However I suspect if I put the hatch back on and door glass etc.. and seal it back up, each time I open the door I'll be hit with that smell. When I was in the US I opened the door on an HLS30 and noticed the same smell, not sure if the home market cars smell different? :)

FYI: Bat auction sold just over $50k USD. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-69/