Gav240z

I will trade you a drive of a 71b gearbox, for a drive of an S20 powered S30z? ?

Any idea on cost of shipping to Charlotte?* 2910 Interstate StCharlotte, NC 28208 I could potentially be interested in the whole lot, but I recently imported 2 rear 1/4 panels and after blasting found 1 to be in very average shape.. (looked good with paint on it) so a little wary of importing used panels with unknown history. *Shipping company I use is in Charlotte. They then ship items to me in Australia..

Both this car and the BAT car are nice. Safari Gold 920 just does it for me however. 918 orange is quite common on early S30Z's. (most common colour as far as I'm aware).

Early cars have the transmission gearshift further back than earlier cars. So a 71A gearbox is more suitable for early 240z's. If you don't want to get into the business of bending the gearstick backwards and hacking up center consoles. In my 72 240z (which had a 71A box from factory, being a late 71 build) we compromised with a 71B/C hybrid box (71B bellhousing) and Ctype rear extension housing which gives my car a 71B box in terms of ratios etc.. but the gearshift lever further back to suit the early style body and transmission slot. Which might explain why shifting to 5th always felt strange compared to rowing through the first 4 gears.

I'm not sure why the US market got stiffed with a 4 speed box. AU market cars were all 5 speeds from the beginning.

Wow, it would be a shame to separate this pigeon pair. They belong together. You'd be kicking yourself for selling a Miura though! What a car.

The Porsche on the floor plan (is not from the original plans) it's more an "aspirational" diagram for the punters to feel like their buying into that sort of lifestyle I suppose? :). You see it a lot with glossy Real Estate brochures over here, they will put vintage / classic cars in the driveway or in 3D renderings etc.. Sadly that home and many others like it are often being bulldozed to make way for multiple dwellings on the block (multiple town houses). My aunt sent the house to me as her friend was somewhat sad about selling the house his father had designed and I guess much like us car enthusiasts want to find a good home for our cars to preserve them, some people want to see houses go to someone who won't knock it over for the next best thing and in the name of making a quick buck. In another thread I noticed similar architecture with a 240z here. I don't want to derail Kats thread with talk of real estate, but I can't help but notice such things when looking at old brochures and the like, because it is of that era. I've recently started to warm to 70's styled houses - having not given them much thought until recently. I guess it's a lot like S30Z's there was a period in the 90s where they were dated and somewhat uncool, but their timeless styling has made them more desirable again.

Thanks Kats, I like to think that 907 Green 240z (AU spec) is my car HS30 00051 - however there is no way to really know for sure. I recall a friend showing me that full brochure in person many years ago. He got it when he first bought a 240z in 1971 (it was incidentally 904 white with a blue interior - photos here) However I was only able to find the second photo with the woman outside the house - which is very 70s Australian architecture (here is an example of such a house, a family friend's father penned this design back in that era). I couldn't find the front cover photo again. Thanks for sharing it.

That blue car is likely a European market HLS30 with the amber rear turn signals and clear front parkers. I've seen them referred to as "export" market parkers on Yahoo! Auctions Japan. You can also tell it's European (likely) because AU market cars didn't have a turn signal in the front fender (note it's smooth in that photo?). We didn't get them in that position until 1974+. Early AU market cars did indeed have fender mirrors. From 70-71. (2 styles, a flat mirror and a later bullet mirror like the Japanese Market cars). However from 72-73 they got a single side mirror (like North American cars) on the driver side only. The passenger side had no mirrors fitted. Unlike North American market cars it was uncommon to see dealer fitted mirrors on AU market 240z's. We did get a lot of aftermarket wheels in place of the steel topy wheels though, which makes them very hard to find over here. Both my 70's had aftermarket wheels fitted from new. #51 had peanut / kidney bean style alloys and #150 had Aunger Hotwires (even as a spare). Lots of people fitted later mirrors or mirrors off other cars later on (since many didn't like fender mirrors) or didn't like the single door mirror on the driver side. Hence you see a lot of Ford Falcon XA mirrors fitted to these cars. Side note: The data I've collected on AU market HS30s (and HS30's in general) indicates that 903 Blue is quite a rare factory colour (3% of total cars).. I love the colour, hopefully I can find a 903 Blue car at some point!

I see the problem, can you? No factory undertray on that car. Ouch, in Australia we actually have a good scheme going in Victoria.. You can have 45 or 90 days permit which is really cheap. Like $100 p/year. No recurring road worthy checks and no emissions tests. Once the car is over 25 years of age (classic status). Only requirement is you join a local car club that is part of the scheme. You will then be issued with a CH plate (Classic Historic). Which is a bit of a bummer because I lost the original plates from new (LCU540). But I still have them in storage. Original Victoria Plates from 1972 Historic plates (burgundy background). Each time you use the car though you have to write it down in a log book (on paper) - which is annoying but it's kind of interesting to keep track of what dates you used the car and what you did in it. My 1995 FD RX-7 will be eligible in a couple of years which is great because right now it costs me $2000 in registration, insurance and tax each year. Once they hit 25 years of age however all costs drop significantly as vintage cars are considered "low risk". I think I could live anywhere in the world, so long as I owned at least 1 S30Z. :) Here is an Australian brochure photo. PS: Kats thanks for sending me that HS30 data via PM. I can't recall if I replied thank you yet or not?

I have a more important question, how do you keep all your bolts / fasteners organised before and after plating? I've put them into separate bags but not all platers keep them in the order you sent them to them in. I was going to photograph them with a sheet of paper giving their specification in terms of thread size/pitch and where they go. Example of what I do with SUs here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ewb1ZWYoF5QJH7ey2

Thanks unfortunately I'm seeking an earlier block (E31).

What is the engine number and is it a P30 or E31 block?

Looking forward to seeing how the powdercoating turns out, how many coats will they do? I recently repainted my undertray, but didn't powdercoat (used VHT Engine Enamel). https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16002-what-did-you-do-on-your-z-today/?do=findComment&comment=206628 I tried to hammer it as straight as I could, but there is still imperfections. After a while I decided it was good enough, it is an undertray after all.. Will see how well it holds up, I think next time I'd powdercoat it. You don't save much money by painting yourself.

I would/am going to use KBS rust seal (similar to POR-15) and some good seam sealer to prevent moisture getting under the slam panel area. Gotta be better than the factory effort of nothing - hence why they rusted out!

Nearly every S30z has rust in those places. If it doesn't, it's been patched already at some point. Dog leg in particular.

I'm guessing these bottles, new or used with the bracket are super expensive?

By the way Kats, this is a coolant overflow bottle right? I thought the Z432 was fitted with them as standard or was this an optional extra. I know my AU market 240z just has a drain hose that dribbles onto the ground. Always wondered why it didn't get an overflow bottle or need 1 for that matter?

Wow, no valve train however inc. valves?

That formula is called Retr0Bright http://www.retr0bright.com/ I believe it was originally formed by a bunch of retro computer geeks working in a computer museum and trying to remove the "yellowing" of certain plastics. This is a common method of restoring old Nintendo or Super Nintendo systems (Famicon games consoles to you in Japan) or even just old PC's / Keyboards etc... However as I understand it, the de-yellowing works for a while, but eventually the plastics may revert back to their natural yellow state. I went out and purchased the ingredients for this, but never actually tried it myself. I probably should, seeing how Jerry's washer bottle turned out (may need to wait for summer here in Sydney). https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11678-removing-yellowing-from-plastics/ I was going to restore the tail lamp housings (which went brownish over time) using this method, but ended up hitting them with vinyl paint instead. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13514-tail-light-restoration-tutorial/

I sold my first 240z back in 2001 (because I had bought another 240z), I still regret it. Learnt my lesson. Never sell them! Hence I've got 4 now lol..

haha, yeah but the house helps set the era of the photo of the car. I'm also in the market to buy a house so can't help it. :)

Loving that 70's architecture for the house!

RE: Flat tops, thought it worth mentioning this. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/5381-whats-the-difference-between-240z-carbys-and-260z-carbys/?do=findComment&comment=84116 Gordon Dobbie is well known in Australia for racing S30Z's and many other Datsun (Fairlady Roadsters which had the Twin Solex/Mikuni 44's fitted to a U20 motor in Australia). I've heard from a few old racers in Australia that the 260z carbs performed well if not better than round top SU's on the race track! Just to stir a few pots here ? This is also backed up by member Xnke, perhaps someone here? This is also a view re-affirmed by someone here. When he discusses experimenting with different needles in the SU's on his stroker (4:55) mark. However found that SM's were ideal, even though they lean out up top, around town at lower RPMs they were better suited. So it's difficult to set up the round top's to work at both upper and lower RPM. Food for thought on the topic anyway!

Yep was gonna say watch out for the asbestos in that insulation material.