Gav240z

Hey Kats, I also investigated recreating the works 10,000 rpm tach a while ago and found this site. http://www.ks-sp.co.jp/yonrin_nissan/z_s30.htm I used Adobe Illustrator to try and recreate the designs. Also created Z432 tach. Rally Clock. I wanted to clone the Works CDI box and associated parts. You can read more information I posted here a while ago. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/6719-factory-10000rpm-tachometer/page-3

This might be useful also. I just skimmed through it. http://zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29016

I felt it was a little on the low side price wise, but I'm partial to Blue on Blue as a colour combo. I love it. I don't think Australian market HS30's got that combo, 903 blue is a really pretty blue on S30Z's. I don't think the quarter panel was that bad really, a good old school panel beater could get that pretty right. Someone with more limited skills like me would be better off unpicking it and finding a NOS 1/4 panel to work with.

Will PM.

Thanks mate, I actually was looking for an earlier block. My 72 240z has a very close engine number 078080 and I believe my car was a late 71 build date (Dec 71).

Hi Kats, I actually found a pair the other day. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/j464305461 I saved the images for reference so I can make my own at some point. But you are correct they could be made out of alloy sheet. I may ask you for measurements at some stage.

Nice part no. 16500-E4620. I didn't know there was that heat shield available. I am interested in this set up on my 72 240z.

What is the engine no.? And what is the block code E31 or P30?

And as it should... a car's value doesn't change anything re: legality etc.. - it just makes it more important to do due diligence when laying out that sort of coin. However the principal is exactly the same to me. It doesn't matter if they are $2k Corolla's for $1M Ferrari's. All my S30Z's have chassis, engine bay ID plate, compliance plate (AU market specific and if applicable) matching with engine no's etc.. I would not buy some half baked heretic bastardised car with questionable identity. Too much headache and very much a case of caveat emptor.

Love it, great work. Will bookmark this 1.

I feel like I'm taking crazy pills here. I've skimmed over most of this, but in my mind it's dead simple. If a car has a VIN # stamped on the firewall, that's the car it was and always will be. The other riveted on tags in the engine bay, door jamb, or dashboard are all removable and in the case of the car the original poster is talking about have come from another car. As to the circumstances that have lead to that outcome, well that's the unknown, but of course it could range from rather nefarious actions taken by someone in the past or more innocent reasons (I'm guessing the former to be honest). The way I see it the car is the number as indicated on it's chassis engraving / firewall section etc.. All other ID tags should be removed and the ID of that vehicle should be assumed dead / deceased. If there is no outstanding problems with the VIN # on the Firewall and the car can be registered under that ID without issue, then I would get a title for that ID and set about looking at getting remanufactured ID plates for the other locations made (Door jamb, dashboard, engine bay etc..) that match the firewall VIN. To give an example: HS30 00267 https://photos.app.goo.gl/SbqsCQ0mOfEX87Xp2 This car should be an early 240z but it has the later storage bins, vented 1/4 panels and a dual throttle lever with it (which was continued into 71 on AU market cars), but we know it didn't start life as HS30 00267. We have to assume 267 is dead. Well in fact this car was scrapped because of it's questionable identity. In Australia anyway, lots of cars were given cut n' shut jobs and it was legal all the way up to the 1980s when it was outlawed as too many people got hurt when these cut n' shut jobs were performed incorrectly. It's possible #267 was 1 of those, but most would be buyers would probably steer clear of such vehicles. I know I would, especially when it's portraying itself as an early car, with very few of the early car features remaining.

I can't be sure as the previous owner of my car had it done in the mid 90s I believe (still good today!) but I am fairly certain it was this company. https://www.dashboarddoctor.com.au/reskinning-and-restoration They even have a nice little video.

Pretty happy with my re-skinned dashboard. Done by a company in Australia many years ago. Yes the texture is a little different, yes it's not quite that dark "grey" colour but it looks 100x better than cracks.

Are you planning to restore this wheel or sell it?

My humble opinion and take it or leave it because at the end of the day modifications are to an owners taste, but I personally would change the following: 1.) Steering wheel (go back to the wooden stock item). 2.) Seats go back to the original seats. 3.) Remove the dashboard modifications (go back to stock gauges and remove the vents in the dash) and heater facia panels* + radio (if at all possible to source?) 4.) Gear stick makes it look like an auto, go back to the original (with a 5 speed knob) 5.) I would probably put the Mikuni's back on for a stroker motor. 6.) List on BAT * I see you have Vintage Air con etc.. so this might not be so straight forward. I like the body work, car has nice period correct front and rear spoilers etc.. You can't easily revert paint to stock, but the colour is nice enough just not original. I think it would certainly drive nicely and make an excellent weekend warrior. I was pleasantly surprised to see this 260z reach $46k USD. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-7/ Which is a strong indicator that stock original examples are where the money will be in future. In my opinion that was always going to be the case because so many of these cars have been changed and in my humble opinion a lot of the charm is in the original car. Not that I'm adverse to modifications, but i think keep the overall aesthetics original, drive train and other components (out of sight) can be improved etc.. without too much harm on values. Having said that I recently had a gearbox rebuild for my early 72 240z (AU market car) which would have had a 71A box originally, I used a 260z 71B box (close ratio) with 71C extension housing (so gearstick came through stock position like early cars) and I was not quite sure if I should even do that! Part of me wanted to go back to 71A but people keep telling me their not that great! So I don't always take my own advice.

If the new owner is not interested in those Type Q Mikuni/Solex carbs please send me a PM. By the way how do you find the way the car drives between Z-Therapy SU's and those Type Q's?

What is the advantage of the non-locking nuts? Apparently the Enkei wheels fitted to the 4 banger works cars of the period also had non-locking nut types. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZM9h8nL9ss0eXiE42 I have heard a few people describe them to me, but not actually sure of their real advantage? Are these the same nuts? Photos attached.

Australian delivered cars had the hand throttle feature up until late 1971 when the console change over occurred. Here is HS30 01210 which was an Australian car that made it's way over to the UK. You can see it has the dual choke set up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/lIM2A6F325FqIrN33 https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/15348/lot/664/ Personally despite how dangerous they are, I love it.

I only have the 1/4 window and passenger window ones available. I'll have to check the others later on. Good chance Windscreen is not original and I don't have my late 71 240z handy to check what markings are on it. But will take note later when I'm back in Melbourne.

To make these nuts wouldn't you just need access to a lathe and an example to copy from? (Asking as someone who has very limited experience with a lathe) but maybe modern CNC machining and 3D scanning could help reproduce these relatively easily?

Very interesting, what a shame they never made them! It would have been good to get the LSD, rear disk brakes, along with the other unique parts you mentioned. I can't help but feel it's a shame Nissan didn't produce them. Especially the G-nose variants.

Here ya go. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/58131-non-defrost-rear-glass/

So there was a discussion recently here. About non-defrost glass as being fitted to early 240z's delivered in the US (maybe 1969 dated cars?) but interestingly Nissan gave all HS30's delivered to Australia no defrost options (or it was an option but I've not seen any 240z's in Australia with this glass) up until the 1974 260z which didn't get the sexy vertical defrost glass, instead they got the horizontal lined glass. Anyway this was tough to photograph in the dark of a garage but this is the glass out of HS30 00150 a 1970 delivered HS30. As you can see it has the stamp M-214. The early US cars with clear glass (and no defrost) have the code M-214 and later cars with tinted glass (and defrost) have the code M-224 according to MikeB in the other thread. Personally I've always liked the vertical defrost glass look. The orange on the right is from an old sticker / emblem.

Your original bonnet / hood mounting holes have been elongated drastically! I'd say your car likely had a small love tap in it's life and someone frustrated trying to get the bonnet alignment right modified the holes to get it to sit right. Getting hood alignment right on a S30Z is 1 of the worst jobs out there I reckon. I've had a hell of a time fixing mine. (It was hit in the front and I repaired it) but I'm still not happy with it and being a perfectionist I may actually just start with another hood. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12272-separating-bonnet-skin-and-frame/page-3

Apart from a poor paint job what's wrong with it?