Gav240z

Well done, feel like sharing the document with the labels? It would save me a bunch of time.

Just to divert the topic a second for the wiring. But this is what the original UP stamp looked like on the Oscillator. Before restoration / re-plating etc..

They look great, any pics of them fitted to a door and installed? I personally ran into some issues with 74/75 model door trims that looked like great reproductions but... didn't quite fit right. Are you able to consistently get these at $500 a pair?

OEM always does though!

That's because the 2 knob rally clock was available up until 1974 (S30Z's) in Japan. 1974 is when the dashboard design changed (most export markets refer to this change as 260z dash) but really it's just the 1974 model updates. As a result the clock housing and wiring loom was changed to suit plug and play into the later dashboard. Very similar to the 1974 Jeco clocks. Basically instead of having independent loom for power and the globe, it was placed in 1 single loom plug. The housing also had a strap that runs along the back for mounting into a later dashboard. I've bought a few of these clocks that have been tampered with, some earlier clocks were modified to suit the later dashboard and some later clocks were modified to suit the earlier dashboard. (1 had a bracket mig welded on! - thankfully the clock was ok - idiots..). All the ones I've had restored have been to suit the earlier dashboard, mostly because 240z owners are more likely to shell out for these, but also because all my S30Z's are 240z's. The clocks are literally identical otherwise, the only main difference I know is that there is 2 versions of Oscillator tuning fork (see pics above), but no way to know which you have unless you open the unit and have a look. I'm not going to say which is supposedly better because these statements tend to grow legs and become urban legend before long and have unintended consequences....where people start posting things like "Wanting to buy Rally Clock with Early/Late Tuning Fork) etc.. when in reality it would make little real world difference to them or the clocks operation... Let me see if I can get Ron to chime in on the wiring details above, I haven't really sat down to look at it yet (haven't receive my aftermarket Oscillators) but definitely don't want to blow anything up by getting polarity wrong. Clock motors are impossible to replace as far as I know...(another urban legend for you).

Agree.

Why do people doubt it's value as a low Vin # 240z? S30-00806 just sold for $80K + AUD which is approx. $57K USD at today's rate. http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k223883101

The wiring diagrams you have above look correct at first glance to me. I'm attaching a bunch of photos from the repairs that have been done to my rally clocks over the last couple of years and show a lot of detail of the internals of a Rally Clock Oscillator, 1 thing you may need is to see how the wires are aligned to the pins on the plug? I'm not sure if Ron replaced all the wires with the exact same colour coding used on the originals. I assume he did. But never make assumptions.

d3c0y is correct, I basically want a plug and play solution. I don't want to have to open my clocks or solder anything onto them / modify them. Since I already have Oscillators and want to use these as an alternative / potentially more reliable solution than the original box. But I still want to retain originality to some extent. If I have the original style of connector I should be able to solder the purple oscillator circuit to this plug type and plug it in correct? No need to open the clock I assume?

Can you clarify what is required to make this work? Do I need to do any soldering or will it come with a plug to connect to the original harness? I would like 1, but would prefer if it came with the factory style plug / connection so I can interchange it with my other clocks and OEM style oscillators. I am also going to buy the other option produced by the guys in Oz. So I have 2 different options / styles and I'd love to some day understand how all this works. At some point the people who know all this stuff may not grace this earth.

Yes I was watching that auction too, thought it was interesting it was the A model and had the green light. Of course things could be changed but I've found no info on the A vs B and if it was an early 240z or later 240z thing...That manual is quite rare, the B version is orange in colour.

Awesome work! Now at least I can make 1 of my Orphan clocks work again and probably more accurately too!

I saw the Green Z432 the other day, I don't know much about it. Seems quite a few are appearing lately. Not sure if it'a rise in values that's encouraged owners to move them on? But parts have also gone up in value so perhaps cost of maintaining them is also going up and causing owners to re-think having them around? Sadly I think Phil is still in business. He re-opened under a new name. http://www.sunrisecars.com.au/ I haven't been past his address in a couple of weeks, last time I went by it still had the Edward Lees signage up etc.. But same stock as shown on the sunrisecars website. I think he's keeping his profile a bit lower these days..

I assume so, but have never seen the US fuel door (or taken much notice of the differences). That's why I took those photos so you could compare.

I'm pretty sure the lock was on all S30Z models sold in Australia, so not particularly rare. Although I don't have any spares. Here are some photos of an early AU delivered 240z I'm restoring. You can see the early style key, the locking mechanism and the bracket it locks with.

Not to trash the offering in this thread, but wouldn't the door lock be a better solution and less complicated?

But why? Maybe North American cars didn't have the lock on the fuel door? AU spec below.

I often see many cars on Yahoo! Auctions receive a bid and then nothing happens, the car re-appears on the market again later. I guess like eBay they have flakey bidders, but also sellers often have a reserve price and if bids do not meet the reserve the car is passed in. I missed this car when it went up for sale. Also gotta be careful with cars like these now, many have been re-birthed as a result of their values going up! The car looks good, glad original parts have been retained, not a fan of the modification though!

The early Hitachi TM-1081ZA(S) and TM-1081ZB(S) radios had the controls on the same side in both markets (LHD and RHD) HLS30 and HS30. The Fairlady Z-L's appears to have got an 8-track radio, where as the Fairlady Z-S got a similar radio to export markets but it was a bit more simple in that it didn't have the auto-tune feature and no antenna switch. Same faceplate design. More info here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13817-hitachi-radio-model-tm-1081za-trivia/

More like a tribute, less like a replica.

Nothing that I can see right now, but thanks anyway.

Damn I needed 1 of these a while back. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14375-wtb-accelerator-pedal-for-rhd-240z260z/ Too late now, there is a Fairlady Z group on Facebook that might need it? https://www.facebook.com/groups/737305722959425/

Just as an FYI, I think the radio I had was a Clarion RN-321U model. Looking at a couple of similar Clarion units on eBay and what's left of the model number on a sticker that seems to be what it is. But a Google Search has revealed nothing about them.