Gav240z

No problem at all, I just picked up 1 on eBay for about that price. I personally wouldn't sell them that cheap either, but some people don't appear to want much for them. I figured no harm in trying. All the best.

Great to have multiple options for these clocks. Interested to see how you go when testing with other clocks.

I've bought a few clocks recently for $25-$30 USD. If you would consider selling at that price I'm interested. Not sure if this is a reasonable offer or insulting, but don't ask you don't get I suppose..

I would be interested for sure, sadly after discovering my radio was not an original 240z unit I decided to put it aside and haven't touched it since. It was working ok in terms of signal etc.. but it wasn't perfect. I have sort of relegated it to the parts bin if I find anymore TM-1081ZB(S) radio's in need of donor parts.

I've got a few of the Rally Clocks + Oscillators (not gonna say how many, some will faint!) and I've interchanged the Oscillator between the various clocks and it hasn't made much difference. I have noticed that it can take a few minutes or so for the clock to sync up and start keeping accurate time for 1 of my oscillators and then it's good to go. I also had issues with my test bench which was 12V made up of 8x1.5V AA batteries DC batteries. 1 of the clocks would run slow, but the other was fine. Then when I connected the slow clock to my car it kept perfect time... So they can be temperamental but that's kind of part of the charm. I kinda of like the fact that they are still somewhat mysterious...I'll look up those other guides you were talking about. Keep in mind all mine were adjusted and rebuild by Ron so maybe they are more close in operating behavior as a result?

More options for us Rally Clock enthusiasts to have a working time piece is only a good thing in my opinion. I agree that often there is as much wrong with the clocks themselves and it's not just the motors that quit. As far as I'm aware Ron makes his own replacement motor bearings and gears to deal with these kinds of issues. Finding any Rally Clock is getting harder now, without or without the oscillator box. So your market may be limited, but... you may be able to use your learnings to create options for the other standard clocks which have a pretty high failure rate also.

Incidentally which wideband sensor did you go for? I'm interested to see how you progress. Although I think a high compression engine and SU carbs are not the best combo. In my experience my 72 240z with a high compression L28 block and E88 head tends to feel a bit flat through the mid-range and definitely feels choked at the high end. But until I get a wideband on it I won't be sure if it's not enough fuel or airflow.

I suppose the reason they asked what car it's off is probably due to a couple of things. 1. The size and shape of the bumper. The more curved it is and the more intricate the design the more expensive to repair. Think of those classic cadillac bumpers that take up the entire nose cone of the car. 2. Rarity, if something is lost, damaged or destroyed they want to know what sort of money it may cost them to find a replacement. So it's a kind of insurance charge for doing the work.. Compared to other bumpers the ones on an S30Z are relatively small and thin.

Just had my bumper re-done in Australia, haven't seen it yet or collected so no photos yet. Price was $550 AUD for the rear bumper + overriders. I opted for the stock bumper to be re-done as the quality seems to be better than many of the aftermarket ones and the chrome quality seems to be better done also. I've heard horror stories of reproductions rusting in short order. I'm wondering where you sourced the rubber strips from? I will be getting some for front+rear and the overriders. Think I'll run them although like the clean look without also. Going to paint the inside with Black KBS Rust Seal, similar to POR-15 you guys have over there. That should protect it.

I have several I can test it with to see if there is any variation. All the clocks have been refurbished by Ron @zclocks so are in good shape. So therefore the Oscillator should work consistently with all of them.

True, but I hate to sacrifice a somewhat working unit.. We shall see what it's fate is.. :).

That's what I was thinking also, sadly...

If I didn't already sink money into my E31 head, which was at least $2,500 AUD worth of work I'd have bought this...Definitely looks like it has had a tickle in the ports.

That BBQ is registered in NSW, must be road worthy...

Yep odd......internally mine looks very different. I wonder if there was more than 1 model with the same faceplate?

Sorry for the late reply on this, I've been quite busy lately. The short of it is, the radio works. But interestingly I have noticed that sometimes I don't get great reception unless I put the negative lead near to the ground wires on the radio chassis. Here is the strange thing. Say I tune the radio in to a certain frequency and I'm getting clear transmission. I switch the radio off, leave it say until morning. Go back and reconnect it to power the radio powers up but the reception is gone. If I move the black negative lead close and around the grounded black wire on the chassis (there is a couple of spots) suddenly reception comes good? I've attached photos of the transistor / coil thing I was talking about, you can see the brown wire is not soldered down. I've now soldered it in place and the radio works, apart from the somewhat strange behavior when it comes to moving the negative terminal on my 12V supply around on the chassis with relation to reception. The radio is not back together so half the chassis is not back together which may explain this odd behavior, however before I can reassemble I'm having some trouble putting it back together. I should have taken more photos but the transistor part I'm not sure where to fasten it down. Does anyone have photos of the internals of the radio so I can see how everything is orientated? This rear left area of the radio I can't remember how to attach the remaining components, if anyone has photos of how this should be organised please do share. I can take better photos later of the trouble spots. Radio lights up and works..has reception etc.. Where the dodgy solder point was, brown wire on this terminal post bit... I've since soldered it. Transistor?

The problem for HLS30's is they made so many of them. HS30s, HS30-H, S30, PS30 are all quite rare now. I've been trying to keep record of what's left in terms of HS30's and I'd estimate of the 3000 or so that were sold here (maybe less?) we have about 300-500 left. Of those many are long term restoration projects. Good RHD cars are hard to find now and prices have taken off already. A couple of good but unrestored cars have sold for $75K AUD + already and gone over the the UK. 100K+ USD may take a while longer but each year it becomes more likely, especially as the cost of early parts goes up!

I agree seller should have taken $58K if that was the best offer, I probably would have given it's current condition. I know you've also restored a few to a high standard so you know the costs involved. But... this car's body appears to be pretty good. As we know the value of an S30Z is really in the body (and apparently the serial number also), and most early cars (sub 100 chassis) are close to dust by this stage. If this car just needs some minor floor pan work and a little bit of rear dog leg work (never seen an unrestored S30Z that didn't). Then the rest of the work required is relatively minor in comparison. Anyway it's an interesting watch all the same..

I've been debating the folks on the Facebook group on this car.. I do think early 240z's will hit $100k USD sooner than later. Already the way in Japan with the more 'unique' S30Z's.

I've been debating the folks on the Facebook group on this car.. I do think early 240z's will hit $100k USD sooner than later. Already the way in Japan with the more 'unique' S30Z's.

Also interested in the center caps if the others above don't take them.

So.... the radio works sort of... The Antenna trimmer screw seems to do nothing. Behind it is a wire that appears to be tensioned but really does nothing as far as I can tell. The problem is the radio is half apart but.. I've had it working with loud clear volume and reasonable reception but moving the pieces of the radio around (it is still soldered to ground on the chassis in parts) so I can't remove it fully from it's chassis. Near the blue power in cable is another brown and red wire to what looks like a small form of coil. I will need to take photos but the small wound coil appears to be part of the equation. The brown wire came undone and needs re-soldering but I was able to move the wire around on the solder point and find a sweet spot where the radio was clear and working correctly. The coil doesn't look like an off the shelf part but I'm not that familiar with older electronics so maybe a modern replacement is available? Anyway I'll need to see what I can do. I'll take some photos of all the above, but basically it does work. Which I'm happy about but needs a few tweaks and a bit more troubleshooting.

Thanks but I somehow doubt that is the issue with this radio, mainly because the earlier AM radio's performed fine when I tested them (all 3). I will test it again now that I've fixed the tuner adjustment issue just to be sure. I did hear a crackle in the speaker so it should in theory be working with reception.

Thanks I have seen Antenna trimmer written on the radio chassis before and had no idea what it was for. A quick Google: http://www.chevelles.com/radiotech/reception.html Sounds like it's worth a go. That schematic is also great. Although I really wish I paid more attention during Analog Electronics class back in my computer science degree days!

Just saw this on Facebook, check out the chassis number correction here also.