Gav240z

My other world is epitrochoid-shaped :)...and goes brap brap ? My understand has always been that early S30Z's had the "Flash" switch. Then in 71-72 there was a change to the typical standard hazard symbol we see today in most cars (Double Triangle) Then with 73 in the North American market there was the fiber optic style Green pull out button to match the light up heater facia panel. In terms of wiring loom differences in length, I've no idea why this changed.

Sure, I know of a grand total of 6 HS30's that were White 904 with Blue interior. HS30 00063 - Car is no longer Blue (was repainted Silver) and now in the hands of a collector in WA restoring it. [photo and history here] HS30 00643 - Now a Blue car, no longer has Blue interior [photos here] HS30 00982 - Previously owned by Cuong in Western Australia, he sold it on. But it was also a manual car. [photos here]. HS30 00990 - which has since been converted to an RB25 powered car and the blue interior was scrapped. [photos here]. HS30 01071 - was previously owned by John Newlyn who owns #35 and I think #99. But 1071 was written off in 1991, but was repainted silver (from white) So that leaves my car HS30 01415 - which was 904 White and Blue interior with Auto box. [photos here]. [Video Here]. Actually I tell a small lie, there is 1 other White 904 and Blue interior HS30 I know of, but I don't know it's chassis no. and it's documented here. Also a manual car. So as far as I'm aware it's the only 904 White, Blue Interior Automatic 240z (HS30) in the world. :). Blue interiors are my favorite, I believe it's very rare even for HLS30's! FYI: The mud flaps on this car appear to be Datsun Dealer fitted and have "Datsun" embossed into them. Not seen another set.

Kats it's 1 of the reasons I'm contemplating keeping my 71 240z an automatic. It's so rare now, many have been converted to manual and the good thing is people literally give away the auto parts and gearboxes. I've got a spare 240z auto box sitting in my backyard because someone gave it to me for free. I actually don't mind the auto, it is a little slow. Initial pick up is ok, but top end suffers a bit. I haven't tuned it mine you, so might just need some additional ignition / carb tuning to get it really moving along. But an auto was considered a big luxury at the time and commanded a price premium. This car was also fitted with dealer option aircon, and I think having both of those things is nice especially with the hotter summers we're getting these days. So I would like to retain both. I certainly don't see many HS30's with auto gearboxes anymore.

View Advert 70/71 Hazard Switch x2 Wondering if anyone has either 1 or 2 70/71 hazard switches for sale (as pictured)? Will consider broken ones also.. Photo for reference. Looking to get either 1 or 2 (need 2) but happy to find 1 at this stage. Advertiser Gav240z Date 12/08/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240z  

I would love love love to get my hands on that car! I saw it for sale a while ago in GooNet, I believe it was hidden under a rickety shed/garage with a tarp/cover over it.. It looks to have some rust issues, but like you say very very original and would make an excellent patina project. Although Kats I think you want your cars to be of a certain standard so it may be hard to resist re-painting it. I have the same dilemma with my white 71 240z.. which I was just working on. I polished it up nicely, but the paint has many flaws in it. And I am not sure I can resist repainting / restoring the car long term.. it would be a very easy restoration compared with my Safari Gold car and 907 Green early 240z. https://photos.app.goo.gl/H6R4Z7uJ8CHz8LeB8

Same as this 1. I can get photos of the 1 in my garage if you want, but it's all dusty ? Can only just see it below here. and at front here. I believe it was common on UK spec cars.

That's a beautiful car, love the detail of it. There is a link to an album with more photos and a video of it too. S20 sounds beautiful. I really like the sound of it compared with a more simple L-series engine. I get the same feeling looking at the S20 as I do when I look at my RB26, I just feel they are a very special engine, it's kind of hard to quantify it, but it's the look, sound, smell and simple/yet complex nature of these motors and their excellent engineering that draws me to them. Safari Gold is quite rare for a Z432 isn't it? I have that optional lower lip (rubber/urethane lip) sitting in my garage and the headlight covers. But the lip actually belongs to a friend in North America and I've been gently prodding him to sell it to me. I went all the way down to Wollongong 1 weekend and back to collect it for him a couple of years ago and haven't seen another for sale since then. It's a beautiful piece compared with the fiberglass copies.

It's a bit sad to let them go, but I guess I understand. I've got several pairs of SU carbs sitting off my cars and will likely be putting Mikuni/Solex on my cars instead (when they are running again) so having them sit around they are not being used. It's good to keep original parts, but sometimes you have to factor in the storage space and value of them and the fact that they should be in use and if someone else is getting good use out of them that's better than having them sit dormant in a cupboard for 20 years.

I am also a fan of the Type Q/Type 2 Mikuni 44's... but local legend has it that they don't stay in tune. Apparently the magnesium/alloy composite they are means that as they heat up they distort and create vacuum leaks, leading to poor tunability... At least that's what a local guru (who I trust knows more about them than me says). Have you heard of similar? By the way is there any difference between the Z432-R option ones and the U20 Roadster versions?

Thanks Kats, that is interesting. I have to say I like seeing the same interior colour in a race car as the exterior. I see a lot of white interiors on race cars too, often so oil spills or other fluid leaks can be spotted easily (or at least that's the reason I'm told it's done). But this is just another small detail of the Z432-R I was not aware of. On the topic of different trim level Z432-R's, this car (and I don't recall the chassis no. I'm afraid) really catches my eye. I love it's completely bare bones / raw look. NB: The straight gear stick and the Topy steel wheels are just begging to be changed to some kind of racing spec wheel, but I love it like this. I'd love to drive it around on the steelies, since it just has that weekend racer look. In Australia Bathurst was a famous racing circuit and track because anyone could enter off the street. You could walk into a local dealer buy the hotted up version of whatever car it was you wanted to race and then go from the show room to the race track with it. Many did, and drove on steel wheels (but removed hubcaps). So it has that sort of appeal to me.

Any idea why it was done? I just can't think of an advantage to doing it? I get the flat black bonnet to reduce glare, but inside the floors and under under dashboard etc..? Just not sure why they would bother?

It's a difficult 1, I recently got another 240z that is very "patina" and it kind of drives me nuts that the paint is flawed on 1 hand but on the other I want to keep it that way. Not sure I'll be able to resist repainting it forever though.. But it helps that I'm kind of broke for the minute. Having said that, it's kind of what makes up a cars history, all those flaws, stone chips etc.. I recall seeing Nick Mason's Ferrari GTO and it still has the original seat material and all the wear and tear. I kind of think it makes sense on such cars. As with this 432-R. Can you show me examples of the areas that should be more satin black? Was it a brushed black paint like the front radiator support area?

Are they genuine Kobe Seiko Rally Mag's or are they reproductions? Age..unfortunately. Must be old age Kats, you're getting soft. ?

Not hurt at all, I just saw the thread diverting into a bit of a sH!t show. With a dash of tit for tat thrown in. Much like the thread Alan referred to previously where the L24 and S20 are being compared. And whilst it wasn't directly purely at you, I just get frustrated seeing the same silly comments made anytime a home market car like the Z432 and Z432-R is discussed. It seems odd to me, when it comes to other marques usually there is respect for the "best of breed" version and they are highly coveted. Here it seems that we want to find flaws in it and talk them down. No idea what drives it, perhaps it's envy?

Oh c'mon now.... the American's built plenty of bland rubbish that needed jazzing up. The Mustang was considered a "ladies" car, hence why Carol Shelby had to work it over to give it more "muscle". But the whole premise is just silly to begin with. Plenty of politics in big companies preventing "special" versions of cars being released. That's what is good about the aftermarket tuning scene, they can push the envelope. And what was poorly built about the AC cars anyway? They were a beautiful shape. But how is this even relevant to a discussion on a Z432-R when the O.S Giken offering came in the late 70s almost 10 years later? I mean I could say the RB26 is the ultimate set up too, but it came in 1989... How is this relevant to the thread at hand? For all we know it puts out 500hp on a Rebello dyno... ? Ughhh, this thread quickly devolved didn't it? It's a good thing all these Westerners know how to do it right and get to show those orientals how it's done lol.. Somehow I think you'll have lost them..

I just love the interior on Z432-R's... I wonder why the gear stick / shifter is bent though? 71A boxes usually had a dead straight shifter...unless it's an option box feature? I've got a Mach wheel like that, but I always seem them faded to brown, they were originally black. If anyone is planning to do a replica you'll want a set of Ikeda Bussan seats, I went to great expense in grabbing a set for myself. They are not cheap..but then again nothing Z-432-R parts wise is cheap. That's what makes these cars so special, the parts are all super rare and expensive if you can find them. Not the most comfortable, but certainly look the part in the Z. I've now taken them out since I used the car for my wedding and it wasn't gonna work with the wife's dress on the day.

Some photos I've amassed of what I believe are Genuine PS30-SBs but some photos may be of replica's. I'm not sure. https://goo.gl/photos/s1SzsY35jA47dTZc7 But I kept them for reference purposes.

I hope PS30-00166 finds a good home this time. Feel like it's getting flipped between owners. I'd love to own it and fix any issues it may have.

What a beauty, do you think I could swap my house for it? My house cost me about this much lol.

I think it sold for around $1,500 USD a couple of years ago. Not a bad price really, considering what some are asking for second hand ones these days.

I haven't looked inside the 2 radios to compare yet, someday I will. However I thought you'd appreciate these pics of a NOS radio I wanted to buy on eBay. But someone else outbid me. https://goo.gl/photos/sXHcEMFqGQPd3K5ZA It shows the original box/booklet and condition of the radio is superb. A true treasure.

Hey Kats, I have both ZA and ZB radio's and noticed the red vs green light. I believe the ZA radio I got came out of a very early 240z. You car is the first I've seen with working red light. I think it may have applied to very early build date cars. The rest of mine are all Green.

Thanks I have that manual, but I had difficulty understanding it. Perhaps because I don't have the same background as you do. I'll be sure to reach out to you. I am waiting on the radio chassis to come back from re-plating. Then I have to find my reference pics of when I took it apart. Which you can find here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvuUP6gMXZW9qMKL7 I started with this radio because it was damaged in the post (chassis got bent) and it chipped a part of the PCB off, which I was wondering how to best repair. It still works but I have trouble with the signal seek function. I figure if I mess this 1 up, at least it was already damaged, but given the value of these radios now I want to fix it properly. ?

@kats just wanted to say thank you for sharing that 8- track repair information. If I manage to figure out how to restore these Hitachi TM-1081ZB(S). I'll be sure to share a write up.

Thanks mate, I've actually found a shop like that that deals in antique radios along the central coast of NSW, but it's a bit of a drive out that way. I was hoping to figure it out myself and share the knowledge with the community. My mum is good friends with someone who used to repair old Television sets and has been doing part time work (he's retired) repairing vintage fuel injection systems for early BMW's that are being restored. I've been meaning to ask him to take a look, but he lives in Melbourne and I'm up in Sydney. So it's a little difficult.