dimitri_zee

I've seen ammeters fail also; check it for continuity... or probe a test light under the rubber boots and make sure power is available on both sides..

I don't run carbs on my L24 but I still have a similar water path to that one that runs through the Hitatchi's. My setup though runs from under the thermostat housing across the front and down to where the heater hose runs under the spark plugs. I should take a pic, it will explain it a lot better than text! And where the heater hose connection is at the back of the cylinder head, I have a piece with 2 hose connections rather than one. Joins to the "Y" pipe fitting again where the plugs are. In case the heater is in the off position, coolant will still flow through to the back of the head. I have noticed with this system, the engine does heat up a few minutes quicker than without that plumbing; temp needle starts moving sooner than before.

If you still have the L24, a good 2¼ system with a big resonator in the middle and not a glasspack "hotdog" and at the rear an almost straight through muffler should make it sound great; deep throaty roar without the high pitched bark.

Sounds great Chris! For a while I've been thinking about building a twin system and on my first attempt, made it way to loud thanks to the exhaust place that wouldn't listen. On my second attempt, I think I got it; almost a copy of the South African works rally cars with a twin 2", 2 in 2 out center resonator and straight out the back under the tank. Looks weird but i like the sound.

The way I check for TDC is with a torch through the oil filler cap and looking at the lobes on the cam for cylinder #1. They should form a "V" pointing down; as in one lobe at 45' to the left of the engine and the other lobe 45' to the right. If and when you can confirm that with what timing marker you have on the front of your motor, you can check your dizzy.

Another option might be to fit the Performance Superlights at 9.5 kg's each.. I think they are available in 16 x 10 now. I know they made the 15's in 10" wide. Cheaper than Wat's but just a little heavier.

Are both throw out bearing carriers the same length? Measure the length to make sure they are the same. Seen about 4 or 5 different ones!

Is the choke cable hooked up and working fine? I'd recommend a good going over of the ignition/fuel system. Have you installed an electronic distributor? Theres several things to check..

Check the condition of your alternator / regulator. If neither are working, while the car starts and runs, it is running off the battery hence it only starts once or twice then runs out of power. Place a multimeter across the battery and check the voltage while the engine is running. There should be around 13.8-14.5 volts. If its below that check the charging system.

From what I heard between 3,300,000 to 7 million Yen for a complete motor. Would be nice but...

Another thing though to keep in mind is not to skimp on the linkages. The people that say triples never run right usually are the ones that have cheap linkage setups that fall out of adjustment. Flatspots though are just acc pump adjustments and a good tuner can get rid of any. Just my 2c worth...

I'd be checking the headlight switch with a multimeter with the "continuity" setting that beeps when a curcuit is complete. You just have to make sure there is no power at the switch; just unplug it and test the headlight switch on it's own. If the contacts are worn after 37 years of switching, you may need another one. Or even better, try another second hand one and see what happens. Just a thought.

I also scored a set of genuine NOS lenses and surrounds but I'm paranoid something will happen that's why I want to install some copies and hide the originals away! I think the occasional club sprints I do would unfortunately damage, or worse crack a lens..I'll keep looking around my area for someone who can copy just the lens for now while everyone else is doing the research too.

Just curious if anything has happened since the last post. Came across some rings and lenses that have decayed somewhat and I'm after some repro lenses. Been looking around here for any plastic moulders that can re-create them but it's proving to be damn hard. I'm really after just the lenses for the moment. Any news would be welcome!

Mines not very dramatic, but could've killed most of the electrics... Drove the zed to fill up with fuel while it was cheap before the weekly-just-before-payday fuel price rise, pulled into the servo station, filled up then started the engine. Hmm..alternator light on... volts going from 11 at idle to 16 volts while at 2000rpm! Only thing to do, turn on everything to help absorb all the excess power and take it real easy getting home...and it did without any casulties..

I used to get that exact sound till I found it was a half shaft uni joint. But you stated you have a CV conversion so that eliminates that! Check your tailshaft uni joints. Noises seem to "travel" around from under the car..

Get a hold of a test light and probe the main cable from the battery to the starter. Make sure power is getting to it; you may have a bad connection within the main cable/terminal. With the light, check for power at the fusible links etc..Test light is a wonderful tool!

Is it manual or auto? I've heard of some issues with the kickdown switch bracket interfering with the accelerator pedal. Poke your head under the dash and push the pedal and see if anything binds up.

One thing came to mind about this talk about not placing a car in a museum or other special place. Imagine driving your nice restored zed to a show etc and having a nice, rusted out POS shunting you in the rear. Insurance or not, the car is still rooted. No panel beater will ever be able to make it like it was. I'm happy to keep my #121 in the garage most of the time, and when on the road, keeping a good eye in the rear view and everywhere else! Around me, there's plenty of people that leave common sense at home.

Compulsory additions would be the ZG's, Z432 and Z432R's and one from everywhere on the globe where they were sold. Unless there weren't any major differences in body/interior etc..

If the voltage goes that high, the battery is being over-charged and will start spilling out its electrolyte and eating away the paint; that's why so many zeds rust around the battery area. If your zed has an external reg, it should be mounted with two bolts on the side of the engine bay almost opposite the alternator. You'll see a 6 pin white connector going to it.

Depends on how much $$$ you want to spend and what do you want to do with the zed.. Cam, porting etc..

I had that same problem when I installed an RB engine into my 240, I used a Skyline slave cylinder instead of the 240Z one. Turns out the bore size on the Skyline one was bigger meaning less travel for the same amount of pedal movement. Installed the original zed one, problem solved. Measure the bore on the original one and it was smaller ie more travel for the same pedal movement compared to the Skyline one. I'd measure and compare bore sizes of both slave cylinders; make sure they are the same. It could even be the clutch master as well.

I think what blew the budget was the broken easy out. The people that had to remove that now had something of a harder material to remove other than just the broken stud. If you ever come across another rusty looking stud, try soaking it with brake fluid for a while; been told by a good engineer friend of mine that works the best!

Another thing to check if it's compatible is the bore size; too big and you won't get enough travel so you won't be able to get into gear. Just one thing I found when playing with RB conversions in the zed. Take a vernier with you and measure.