ta240

that would definately be in bad taste.

and a photo studio. Some of those shots are impressive.

great post! I muddled through a ton of posts with questions on different exhausts when I was looking at one for my Z and this would have been a very helpful one to have had then.

After 15 years of owning a bondo'd up rusted out maaco painted Z I finally get a good condition one with original paint and while cleaning it up this morning I discover that someone took their key and made a little 4" partial loop on the passengers door while walking by it. I've only had it a couple months, it's only been in a parking lot probably less than a half dozen time and probably on 2 or 3 since the last time it was cleaned. Always parked well away from other cars and never for long. Fortunately, they didn't put a lot of time or effort into it so it only goes all the way through the paint for about half of it but it still takes the fun out of owning something nice.

who paints over good chrome? I guess that is kinda like lifting up ugly carpet and finding hardwood floors underneath. those look good on there.

Spot:

In my experience when they heat up on freeway trips it has tended to be a small leak in the system bleeding off pressure. Not enough of a leak to make a noticable puddle anywhere or a quick drop in fluid level, just enough to drop the pressure in the system. I'm not sure if it is a common cause but I've run into it 2-3 times in the past on various cars.

I'm in the process of swapping out parts from my two Zs. I recently traded out the front strut assemblies since my old one had fairly new struts on it that I liked. I replaced the lower ball joint at the same time and also swapped out the control arms since the old Z had urethane bushings on it. However I couldn't get the drivers side control arm bolt out on the old Z so I had to cut the bushing out of the control arm that was on it. Since I had purchased new bushings it wasn't a big deal. The problem is on the passenger side wheel the bottom of the wheel now sits about 3/8" in from the top of the wheel. The drivers side is close enough I can't measure the difference. My old white one had a shake in the front end from 50-80 that I could never get rid of so I probably shouldn't have swapped any parts over from it, however the only parts that are from the old Z are the struts, brake calipers (toyota), strut housing, spring and control arm on one side. The hubs and rotors are off another car that didn't have any shake. Yet my new Z now has the shake. Ideas on why the wheel leans in at the bottom so much now? Is there anything in the strut, caliper, strut housing that could cause a steering wheel shake? I was going to take it back apart and just swap the strut cartridge and brake calipers onto the housing, hub/rotor from the non shaking Z but can't get the retaining nut off the top of the strut tube.

that is funny. I notice that a lot of the items had to do with pipes, which may explain it.

yikes. But he did include a link to my site in his writeup so I won't badmouth it

problem is, on mine I did change everything.

My white Z had a similar shake to it although it would still do it at night. Through the course of owning the car I went through 2 sets of wheels, 4 sets of tires, 3 sets of struts, new tie rod ends, new ball joints, strut rod bushings, control arm bushings, steering rack bushings, steering coupler bushing, 2 steering racks (1 reman and 1 new), 2 sets of outer tie rod ends, a couple alignments, swapped out the hubs and rotors on my other car that didn't have a shake to it. Everything I did would only tend to move around at what speed the shake came and went. Switching back to softer bushings made the problem less noticable in the steering wheel but that is just because less of the shake was getting transferred there. The best it ever got was when a tire shop did an on the car wheel ballance. He could ballance the wheel on the machine and then spin the drivers side wheel up to speed and it would start vibrating the front end, no sign of any cause that they could find. Last weekend I wanted to swap out the struts and brakes with my other (new) Z so I just traded the entire assembly between the cars and now my orange Z has the shake. When I traded them I also replaced the ball joints and control arm bushings. I guess this weekend I get to switch back....

thanks, I'll have to give it a try. Can I just send my wheels to you? That one in your picture is blindingly bright.

I did swap out the flat tops and may need them for putting my white Z back together. I'm trying to find a cheap set of round tops to put on the white Z for selling it. I can dig through my spare parts as I took a set of flat tops off a parts car years ago and may still have the linkage from it if you are interested. I'm not sure how the finish is on it though. Its my Dad's Fiat, I haven't gotten him to part with it yet. -Trevor

I thought I had found a solution: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150165948748&rd=1 since this is going on the Z I'm getting rid of an still not sure if it will sell for parts or as a complete car I wasn't looking to spend a lot, just get it back together. Plus my exhuast manifold has square openings so an E88 would be a good match. But the paint all over it makes me nervous. I know they often paint the outside of the heads but it looks like he hit the top mechanicals with flat black and the combustion chambers with gloss black.

or is there another way for gunk to end up on the outside of the liners like that?

I've wanted one that says "This IS my other car" or in my Pre-Z days I wanted one that said something like "if I had another car, would I really be driving this?" but, back on topic, yeah a ClassicZClub plate frame would be good.

I've seen both used in different posts by different people. Is there any sort consensus as to which is best for the old 240 4 speeds?

nevermind. The goodridge brand lines have a little insert that goes in that side of the fitting. It had fallen out of both lines.

are there differences in the brake lines between a 12/72 production date 73 model and an 5/73 production date? I'm trying to switch the braided SS brake hoses onto the 12/72 and they don't want to seal on the car side

I agree the stainless hoses are a nice upgrade. They tend to make other cars feel like they have mushy brakes. I got goodridge ones that said they were DOT approved. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?&make=Goodridge&model=G-Stop+Brakeline+Kit&group=G-Stop+Brakeline+Kit&autoMake=Nissan&autoModel=240Z&autoYear=1973&autoModClar=&perfCode=S

An E85 only engine can run at a higher compression ration giving more power. The flexfuel ones have to run at standard compression so you don't get any more power out of them.

I'm torn on the wheels. Overall I like the look better than the ones on my White Z (the car that will be going away once I get everything off of it that I want) Shown here: but the ones on the orange car are in need of a lot of polishing. They are severaly oxidized in the spoke section and I'm not sure if a wire brush would clean that up. Someone mentioned that theirs in that style were painted in that area, which would make brake dust cleanup a bit easier. Not sure about trying to deoxidize the center without damaging the smooth surface and then just paint the inside of the spoke areas, while trying to shine the surface of them?

But the steering wheel is "one of a kind!!!!!" :stupid: At least as long as nobody else has bought a black and gray wheelskin cover and put it on theirs

more pictures, including some of the paperwork that came with it. It cracks me up that it has the record of the first oil change. Also came with the owners manual.