ta240

Will the amp meter still register anything if you have a connection directly from the alt to the battery? In my white Z the amp meter got fried so I replaced it with a volt meter before I did the alternator upgrades. In my orange Z I'm not up for ripping into it just yet to do something like that so I'm hesitant to move the high amp alt to the orange one. If the battery were ever to go dead in a parking lot that would be a lot of load to put on the wiring after jump starting it. With the alt trying to charge the battery on top of running everything else. If you have direct wiring from the alt to the battery it makes sense to run add on accessories directly off the battery terminals, but with the stock setup wouldn't it actually be not the ideal setup as the amps have to make a complete trip from the alt through the interior of the car and back out to the battery. Putting a lot of wire between the alt and the accessory. And making it look like your battery is charging more than it is?

The dents are very round. Our guy uses the spoons from behind the dent method. He's removed some dents in the past that I didn't think could be done. One on our other car was right on the character line and a good solid crease line going against it. I can only spot where that was by the slight dent in the paint there now. I guess since we go to him because he's good I should just trust his opinion on it but I'm not looking forward to having a rough drivers door from now until the car finally needs painted or I break the 'gotta have a Z' curse.

Our paintless dent repair guy didn't want to try removing the dents in the door on my Z because he said the paint probably wouldn't hold up to the bending back out. I think it is the original paint and no telling how old the dents are. The dents are quite deep for door dings and it has 3 of them within about a 10" area on the drivers door. I was hoping to get them popped back out and don't really want to mess with having a body shop do it as I can't imagine anyone being able to match the look of the 34 year old paint. Anyone familiar with removing dents with old paint? Will it likely split or do that wonderful spiderweb cracking? -Trevor

maybe its those things sticking out of the side of the neck:

Will an early 280Z manifold work with carbs on a 240 (e88 head)? Would that be a workable way to get away from the airpump rail?

not having any problems. Just looking for something that doesn't stand out so much on the router logs:classic:

is there an ip address I can type in to access the site rather than the domain name?

I've been going over post after post on headers. I had some pacesetter ones years ago that wouldn't stop leaking for anything so that has tainted my view of them a bit. From what I've read MSA has fixed the flange thickness problem on theirs and people seem to think they are decent. But since I don't plan on any other performance modifications the popular opinion seems to be it will actual hurt performance. So buying a new manifold (they show still available at one site) looks more appealing at times.

so chewing gum won't take care of it?

thanks! Anyone know what the E30 is off of? That is what was on my Z. I had thought it was a 72 since that was the car that I got it from, but I guess they had switched it at some point in time. Did the early 280's with the square exhaust ports have smog pumps?

just wanted to make sure that this was a bad crack, not just a "no that's normal" like I'm hoping for :cross-eye

dang, I shouldn't have looked at this thread. Up till now I hadn't seen the wheels on my white Z anywhere else. I got them off of a parts car that we had to drag out of some brush that was higher than the car. When I got them the fronts of the wheels looked about the same as the backs.

within minutes of emailing Motorsports Auto I got a reply: I can order them which normally takes about 3-5 business days. The price is $73.57 each side. The only problem is they are “new, old stock,” meaning they have been sitting for a while and are starting to crack a little. Nissan no longer produces them. We also have an aftermarket version of the original for $34.95 each side. so far they have been lightening fast with all of their replies

so far my online requests have come back with: > no longer made, nissan has not had those for many years or >G6921-W6000 WELT BODY is the part you are looking for list-18.63 your cost-13.42 They would have to be ordered. or >The catalog is not very clear, these parts are listed as rubber-sealing door , 80931-N4501 RUBBER Rh is $14.15 and 80932-N4501 RUBBER Lh is $14.15 no reply from Courtesy yet, although they haven't replied to my request from the weekend when I bought the car either yet.

this post may have answered my question: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18761&page=2 although on page 1 it was mentioned that the 240Z factory ones weren't available anymore. My prior attempts with adjusting doors when I had to replace hinges were nightmares that I don't want to repeate. Years ago I used some universal fit stuff that we used on tractor cabs where I worked. It worked pretty good, but I don't have the source for it anymore

sheesh, I do that way too often. Jump on some aftermarket source without checking with Nissan first. Thanks for the heads up.

I've read a ton of posts about how the new door seals are larger than the stock ones and cause problems. Anyone bought the ones from here: http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-rubber1.html since they are Nissan would they fit without adjustment? I'd rather go to the dentist than try to adjust the doors.

anyone have a guide as to what number manifold comes on what year? I was shopping at: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/catid/6798_6806/EXHAUST_MANIFOLDS___AIR_INJECTION

anyone have a quick how-to on removing the factory radio from a '73 without breaking anything? Do you have to remove the complete center section with the heater controls?

Anyone know of a good GPS theft tracking system that doesn't have to be professionally installed? Crutchfield has this one but its service is fairly expensive: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kDYPeNgJdwb/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=282850&I=667IQSILV you have to keep paying on a regular basis for the service even if you don't use it. I found these that seem cheaper in the long run: http://www.mymobileguardian.com http://www.omegagpstracker.com but those two have to be installed by a shop that deals with them. If anyone is going to mess up the inside of my Z it's going to be me I just can't see turning the car over to them to install and wire it. I'm not looking for any sort of continuous information from the car, some of them seem to be teenager watching systems. I don't need to know where it is except when it is stolen. And I don't need to be reminded of how fast I went. Ideally I would never actually use the service because if I did it would mean that the car was stolen. Just somewhere to login or call if the car is gone. -Trevor

Wow, I've run into the confused parts guy at regular parts stores when I call it a Datsun so now I just say Nissan but not at an actual dealership yet. Although at a Ford dealer I used to work at when they got their computers for looking up parts the management bought the sales pitch for them that anyone could lookup parts on it so they could save money on counter people. One day one of the new counter guys came back into the wholesale office and asked for someone to take a look out at the front counter and tell him what the part was that was on his counter. Seems the customer came in set the part down and said "I need one of these for a such and such car". Only the kid didn't know what 'one of these' was to even start looking it up. he was too embarrassed to ask the customer. The part was a distributor. One of the guys called the front counter pretending to be a customer and had one girl looking for a muffler bearing for about 15 minutes. My favorite had to be when the driver for the local auto parts place got sent in to pick up a fallopian tube.

here's a link to one post that covers some information on the rebuilt cars from Nissan: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25942&highlight=ebay+factory scroll down just a bit past the first couple posts. oh and my page on them: http://www.geocities.com/z-car/rebuild.html -Trevor

I've pretty much settled on the Coco mats. Now I just have to pick the color. Probably just all black but with a dark orange car I thought maybe red. Or a mellower black and gray. I requested a sample so we'll see when it gets here. -Trevor

I haven't shopped locally yet, just the online places. I need to find a car show so that I can ask around for who is good. I love the look of the MSA leather: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/IA31 and would hate to mess up the look with a center section that didn't look like it was right. The blackdragon catalog has just a drawing of the covers. the suede center section sounds good. Don't know if it would breath any better, which is what I'm looking for, but it would look sharp. I wonder about perferated leather for the middle. I need to move to an area with lower temperatures in the summer.

anyone have the ones from blackdragon? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0073.asp