ta240

On the one bushing that is thinner I believe it has a correct direction to it. If it has a huge gap, rotate it 180 and then slide it on. -Trevor

Anyone know the correct size for the long bolt that holds the alternator to the engine? 1973 240Z -Trevor

I can't get nissanparts.com to work. MSA wants $349 for one. -Trevor

thanks! That's what I was looking for.

The other question is should I go with the outer tie rod ends that MSA lists or get the Nissan ones?

it has several slightly different sizes, all under 2", looks like through the years when they've done exhaust work on it they never cut off all of the old pipe and so there are couple inch long left overs in there. It is just the stock manifold with stock downpipe. Haven't checked with local shops, the price on it seemed like a good inexpensive way to replace the old mix of pipes and add a resonator.

Anyone tried one of the New Motorsports Auto steering racks? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/23-4497 I've had nothing but bad luck with reman ones being sloppy.

I second the vote for the Z Specialties one. I went through several different alternators through the years before getting it. Had the 45 Amp 240, the 50 amp 240, tried the 100 amp GM alternator but the custom bracket cracked and the other problem there was it wouldn't start doing anything at all until the engine was around 1000 rpm. Then went with the 60 amp 280Z alternator before finally getting the Z Specialties one. Now the lights never dim even with the highbeams, and electric radiator fan on etc. -Trevor www.geocities.com/z-car

I think maybe when you have "FRAME UP RESTO MINT" in the title of the auction you are asking for it if it isn't perfect. I always love the ones that say 'recent restoration' and all they did was get the seats recovered and the car painted. -Trevor

never mind, I found info that shows it can be done but requires some customizing.

isn't it a good idea to switch to a volt meter at that point? That way the wiring can be updated so that the full amperage doesn't run all the way into the passenger compartment and through the dash. -Trevor

Is this really a good transmission for a 240Z? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-240SX-SR20DET-FS5W71C-NR_W0QQitemZ250097428715QQcategoryZ33733QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -Trevor

Anyone tried one of these for a resonator and pipe?: http://maremont.com/smartlink/exhaustspec.aspx?partnum=251005 I know it's only 1 11/16" but for a stock setup the price seems good at about $100 from carparts.com or partsamerica.com -Trevor

A coworker is selling a set of "D" hubcaps on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230075387189 -Trevor

too long. Something around 14 years. Long enough to butcher a few repair jobs and put almost 200,000 miles on it. With the rust damage and problems with frame rail sections not being lined up it may be enough on the work needed list for it to be getting near the end of its life span.

the picture cracks me up too. Looks like it could be separated at birth from Spot: oh and congrats on the purchase!

I had a cold start valve go bad and spray gas out the top of it once.

saw the car on Ebay earlier today. beautiful. As for the restored thing, the ones that always crack me up are the ones that say something like "restored 2 years ago" and all they did was get it painted and replace the carpet. One thing that kept me holding onto my Z through the times when I probably should have replaced it was the people that would come up to me at gas stations to talk about it and it would always start with "I had one of those once" and I could tell they wish they still had it. Someone is going to get one heck of a car at the end of the auction. It is way to nice to abuse on my 110 mile a day commute. -Trevor http://www.geocities.com/z-car

I got one from Autozone, I don't remember the brand but it was junk. It had more slop in it than my old one and that was even after I tightened up the inner tie rods that were about to fall off. Zbarn said they had 280 ones that were in good shape so I may try them next -Trevor

This may have been brought up before but I wish Nissan would have done the body lines more like BMW did with their Z4 Coupe. When I first glanced a side view picture of one online I thought of the early Z's.

I've got a 73 that I've replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one and I'm looking for an easy and effective automatic shutoff for the electric fuel pump incase of a wreck. My 78 has an oil pressure switch with two prongs on it, one prong goes to the pressure guage and the other one is closed if there is no oil pressure and that shuts off the fuel pump. Any chance I could just changeout the oil pressure switch for one from a 280 and wire it in? I know the 280 has a circuit to bypass the switch for starting and the 240 has the carb bowls that would hold enough for starting but I guess I might need some type of momentary pushbutton to run the fuel pump for those times the car has been sitting for several weeks. Years ago I drove a company Ford Ranger that had an inertia switch that (if I remember right) basically had a magnet and a steel ball that when hit hard enough the ball would drop away and break the connection. It disconnected during regular driving twice

here's a site I found that seemed quite detailed: http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1803105&uid=786489&members=1

and Wow, talk about a revenue generator. If they know where you are and how fast you are going they could just mail you a pile of tickets for each time you exceeded the speedlimit.

thanks for the ideas, it looks like I'll have awhile to decide as the next project on the Z has moved from being the engine to floor pan replacement. Severe rust on the passenger side has left it in pretty bad shape. A screwdriver poked right through the frame rail and it is actually cracked in one section. Haven't gotten brave enough to look at the drivers side. On the good side any job on the car that gives me an excuse to buy new tools isn't all bad -Trevor http://www.geocities.com/z-car