ta240

Just to be a pain, I miss the old main page, I liked the picture and being able to scroll down and see larger versions of the latest post.

I love living vicariously through threads like this. Thanks for taking the time to let us know all the details and steps.

how do you filter that out of the search results too? I did a quick search for Thermostat early and that was about all I got for results.

Anyone have experience with the repro belt moldings (chrome parts at the top of the door with the squeegee). The NOS ones are around $400 now but I'm wondering if the new ones are any good.

Running 195/60 R14 tires. Slightly larger tires would fill the openings better but I finally got my speedometer reading right with these by swapping the gear for it.

That's one of my issues. By the time I get to where I think I'd be okay with larger rims on my Z then that size is too small to have choices and I have to try to adjust to an even larger size.

I'm curious to see what the recommendations are too. I'm currently running 195/60 R14s but the pickings in that size are getting thin. The BFGoodrich G-force super sports I'm running now aren't terrible but they are no where near as good as the Bridgestones that I ran for years until they were finally discontinued. The BFs have a lot harsher ride. I like my wheels but I've thought of going to 15" ones to have more choices but it looks like anymore even in 15" size there aren't that many really good tires available.

cleaned up the valve cover polish job that I did about 20 years ago.

The list with colors and number of teeth is handy too for if your tire diameter is off from stock. I managed to get mine switched out so the speedo is correct after being off for years. It wasn't ever fun doing math in my head when I had a cop behind me.

The classic 124 they are paying homage to does share some similar design ques with the classic Z. I always thought the BMW Z4 hardtop looked Z like from the right angles. What I don't understand is why Nissan can't make a sleek sports car.

Depending on the year and location, unfortunately, some don't have a choice on that.

That is practically artwork there. When I start my projects I picture them looking like that but when done they rarely do. Definitely some real skill and patience involved.

I hadn't even noticed that they added fender flairs for the dirt track portion. And they couldn't be bother to get it running?

Exactly. Which is really bad considering, at least in my experience with 3 difference Z's over hundreds of thousands of miles, they are hard to kill. It should have run circles around their other two choices. It reminded me a bit of another show about a decade ago where they'd give two teams cars to modify over a day and then drag race and the winning team would get both cars. I thought it was cool when they did 240Z's but then they gave them the 4 barrel carb setups and didn't spend any time tuning the cars. When they pulled off the line it looked like you could have outran them on foot.

I went from "awesome! they got a Z" to "oh really, and it is the only car that won't start" Looks like it had a 4 barrel conversion. It was also frustrating that they had the time and money to change out the tires and wheels for the dirt track at the end but not to get it running right. But my wife may have been right with her comment that it is a bit hard to find a cheap enough Z for them to trash on the show that runs decently. In the 3rd picture, what is going on over on the passenger side floor and doesn't the shifter seem to be at an odd angle? And in the 4th picture as they pan across, where is the clutch pedal?

I plan to do the fuel line rerouting behind the engine to bypass the fuel rail this weekend. I'll try the no return line first as less connections is easier and then I don't have to find a way to create a reduced flow back like the stock rail. It is supposed to be decently warm on Monday so if it stays that way that should be a really good test for it.

Not only are the carbs great but I was pleasantly surprised when I emailed about changing parts on mine that I've had for years because of engine changes and he advised just adjusting them rather then buying parts.

The fuel rail does have little plastic pieces at the top between the mount and the fuel line but the metal from the mount wraps all the way around the line so I think a lot of heat still makes it through there. Whenever I've checked when hot the fuel rail has been one of the hottest parts in the system. Ironically, my adding heat wrap to it at one point probably helped keep more of the heat in than out. Yesterday I connected the mechanical fuel pump back in along with the electric one and it helped some so the heat in the fuel system is definitely the problem. I'm going to go with Jeff's idea and run rubber fuel line and see how that does. I had thought about trying to cut the mounts and add something in-between that wouldn't pass as much heat but going with rubber lines sounds easier. thanks for all the input!

woops, it is a '73 but I've changed out the ignition to Petronix with MSD 6A (mounted inside the cabin) and blaster ss coil. It also has '72 carbs on it.

I'll give that a shot. I keep hoping it will happen some time when I've got a good area to pull over so I can see how hot the fuel lines and fuel bowls feel. From when I've felt around on different parts when it was hot the fuel rail feels hotter than the carbs. The gas return line is working, when I first turn the ignition on I can hear it pouring back into the tank, but the rails get uncomfortably hot. So it does sound fuel related rather than the heat affecting an ignition part?

As soon as the temperature gets into the mid 70s my Z will start acting up. If I sit at a light for a couple minutes or park for 5-10 minutes it will start and idle just fine but as soon as I try to go it will cut out and buck and jerk along. Once I get moving at 30 mph or so for around 10 seconds it usually smooths back out. I have replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one, added a fan shroud to the radiator. The temperature gauge sits right at the middle, except when going 70+ on the freeway when it moves just a bit to the right of middle. When it is hot and off if I spin the fan by hand it will go about a quarter turn (about the same as it does cold). It has Petronix ignition with MSD 6A (mounted inside the cabin) and blaster ss coil. It just baffles me that it starts and idles fine and only under any power does it have the problem. I realize it uses more gas at that point but if it was After it did it yesterday at the next light I kept the revs around 1500 and it didn't do it when I pulled away from that light. But since it doesn't do it every time I idle for a bit it may have just been coincidence as it also does it worse if I have been driving at highway speeds for awhile right before I stop and the first light was closer to that. It runs fine on the highway for the hour long commute. When it is hotter in the summer even stopping for gas at lunch after driving for 10 minutes or so it will often do the same thing. would an ignition issue behave like that or would it be strictly a fuel problem?

My concern is that the inner tie rod ends on my steering rack don't look like the ones in other threads on here. The top picture is from a rebuild thread on here. The bottom picture is the inner tie rod on mine. Mine doesn't have a lock nut or anything holding it so it may not even be threaded. I don't think the replacement inner end will work on mine.

My car has an aftermarket replacement steering rack in it. It is about 8-10 years old and has a significant amount of play in the passenger side inner tie rod end. It doesn't look like the photos of the stock racks in the other threads here. Am I out of luck in getting a replacement inner tie rod end for it?

mostly even, a bit more on the inside. I pulled the wheels tonight and the rear inside bushings on the control arms have some movement. More so on the right side. Time for new bushings. Thought about upgrading them but my commute is over 100 miles round trip and some of the roads are terrible. thanks for the ideas Trevor Trevor's Datsun Z Car Site, 240Z, 260Z, 280Z

My right rear tire is wearing noticeably faster than any of the other tires. Probably 30% faster wear than the drivers side. The car tracks straight, I can take my hands off the wheel and go for quite a distance before it moves to the side of the lane. I almost never spin the tires but will slide it a bit on some corners. The only thing I can think of is to get the alignment checked but since the rear doesn't have any adjustments and it tracks straight I wasn't sure how much good that would do. The bushings all seem solid and there isn't any noticeable play in the wheel. On my last tire replacement the same one was worn a bit more than the left but not this much so it seems to be getting worse (or just cheaper tires showing it more) ideas on what to check? Thanks, Trevor Trevor's Datsun Z Car Site, 240Z, 260Z, 280Z