ta240

I've got the PBR Metal Masters on my car. They are quite old so I'm not sure if they've changed them since I bought mine but I like them. They do tend to want to squeak every so often though. Not bad for dust. Decently easy on rotors. Had the RS4 porterfield ones on my truck, really great pads. A fair amount of dust but not as bad as some I've had. Good initial bite and then as they heat up they grab even better. Could notice it on 70 mph stops at stoplights on the highway, I'd have to let off on the brake pressure as I could feel the friction increasing as it slowed. Trevor http://240z.me

are yours a newer install or mounts that you've had for awhile? I've heard that early mounts worked much better than the current ones.

"Transmission/gear lube is especially smelly " Go with Redline MT-90 when you refill to avoid that in the future. That's the reason I went to synthetic gear oil years ago. Although it still isn't fun having it spill out on the floor. "A transmission jack adaptor makes pulling the trans a very quick process." If you pull the transmission while it is in the car an adapter (if one will work with your jack) or a Harbor Freight transmission jack is a wonderful thing. I just pulled the Trans on my Z and it actually went back together faster than it came apart. I might have just got lucky on the angles when sliding the trans back in but I was ready for a long battle and it took less than 10 minutes to get it slid back into place. I got some great tips in the thread at: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43545-One-man-job-Removing-and-replacing-transmission&highlight= saved me several of the usual 'ooops, didn't think of that' moments. Trevor http://www.240z.me

It seems like all I hear on that brand is either they were great or terrible. Not sure how much of that is luck of the draw and how much is proper maintenance. But it seems like if you get a good one you are set and if you get a bad one the ownership experience isn't much fun.

I had one from a Ford of some sort for years. Had to use it a couple times too. It fit down in there quite well, but mine was a 73 which came with a full sized spare so there was tons of extra room

I used the rails from the Z seats and drilled a new mounting hole in one end to bolt it to the bottom of the seats. The outside rail needed spacers to get it level and the above tip for shimming the rear is good. The first time I didn't do that and then you really sink back into the seats. I like them because they have way better support than the stock seats but still have a similar profile. Trevor http://240z.me

not the best picture but early Miata seats:

It is done!!! Thanks to everyone for all the tips. Found a $50 off and free shipping at Advanced Auto Parts online site for a beck/arnley clutch set and replaced the rear main seal while I was in there, new front and rear seals on the transmission and the axle seals on the diff also replaced and the seal on the fuel sending unit. Everything actually went back together easier than it came apart, which is a first. Trevor http://240Z.me

another nice plus is it doesn't seem to contribute to the haze on the inside windows like some products

doesn't the free play in the shifter just mean it needs new bushings where the shifter connects to the transmission? 2 of these: http://www.courtesyparts.com/shifter-bushing-240z-260z-280z-280zx-m/t-p-568963.html?cPath=7724_7755& Trevor

Id have to say this: (also note the small 'vents' on the front fenders)

It depends on the starting condition of the car. If you rescue one from the crusher then it is different from taking a clean example and cutting it up but in my opinion anything that can be switched back to stock easily isn't bad (I have an attic loaded with original stuff off my Z). I guess some people like the old flip up sunroofs but when I was Z shopping I'd just keep looking when I saw one of those. Paint color changes I'm okay with, I'm not a big fan of some of the stock colors so new colors aren't all bad. I do cringe when people say "just cut a hole in the door panel for a speaker", but it is their car. I'm not a fan of cutting up the sheet metal. Seen plenty with bulges added that look terrible. The biggest crime against a Z in my opinion is not driving it. I love to see them preserved but I prefer to see them on the road. When it is cool enough to get away without AC mine gets spends at least 2 hours a day on the road for my commute. To that end it gets just about any change that makes that more enjoyable and comfortable. Although I can't bring myself to add AC to it As the values climb and the cars become more rare the number that are garage queens increases. A lady at work often tells me "You shouldn't be driving that". But if I didn't drive it I'd have to either park it in the living room as a decoration or sell it. Neither of which I want to do. And most of all I hope that Z owners never become a group that look down our noses at other owners because of their choices. There are plenty of things I don't want done to my car and things I think look terrible on other cars but I won't think I'm better than you because my Z doesn't have that done to it. It takes a fair amount of time/work/money to keep these cars going so if making it yours keeps you interested in keeping it going then all the better. Trevor http://www.240z.me

on a side note, if you can find a place that does roadforce balancing I've had much better luck with that. My first Z had a wobble and every part I replaced just made it more noticeable, because I was making the connection to the steering wheel more solid. I'd had 2 different sets of wheels on it but apparently both were off at least a bit.

thanks! I didn't want to guess and be wrong.

I waited too long between removing the transmission front seal and installing the new one. Do I have it in the right direction? Is it correct that the open side always goes towards the liquid? thanks!

I saw where the aftermarket ones weren't too bad, but I wasn't sure if that was an item that I'd just be asking for trouble if I didn't stick with Nissan parts.

Didn't think it would be hard to find, just thought a thread about the car selling might include a link to it. We aren't here to share information on all topics? Especially with 319 views already, I didn't see a reason to make everyone search for it. Unless there is some reason not to include it in the post. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Datsun-240Z-Survivor-ready-drive-anywhere-/120778007297?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1c1eee2301 Trevor Not an original signature by me but somewhat fitting: Look at your post, now back to mine, now back to your post, now back to mine. Sadly, it isn't mine, but if you stopped being nonconstructive and dumb and started posting about something that makes sense, it could look like it's mine. Look down, back up, where are you? You're on a page with the post your post could look like. Anything is possible when you post like me, and not like an idiot. I'm on a forum.

link to the ebay listing?

that is one I'd have overlooked. That and that I think I have a FSM on CD somewhere too, forgot all about that. All the regular jobs on the Z I've done so many times I forget about things like that for the less often stuff. thanks! Trevor

How much does a 'good' one run? My jack doesn't have the removable top part so I can't get an adapter for it.

on a side note, how crazy/stupid would it be to replace the seals on the transmission and not do anything with the clutch while I'm in there? The odometer has about 127,000 on it (no idea how accurate but seems close). I don't know if any clutch work was ever done and judging by the ball joints I'd say the prior owners weren't much for maintenance. The clutch works great now and I only put about 7 to 8,000 miles a year on the car so I figure if it even has another 20,000 or so miles left on it that will get me 3 years and put off spending $350+ on clutch parts and flywheel surfacing. Also hoping that maybe if I don't mess with it then things will be lined up better when putting it back together. Or just bite the bullet and order up a Nissan clutch for it while I've got it apart?

thanks for the tips, Those should save me from several "Doh" moments

am I crazy to undertake it on my own with just jack stands and a floor jack? The front seal is leaking and I'm tempted to try it. I know removal is much easier than getting everything lined up for putting it back and not sure if getting it all lined up and held in place can be a one person job. Trevor http://240z.me

if you are removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle and it is really stuck, heat it a bit, spray some penetrating oil into it and then right on the outside edge of the steering knuckle where the tie rod goes through whack it really had with a big hammer. That will spring the opening slightly and allow it to drop out. It may take a couple whacks but it has always worked for me. Years ago I spent several hours with heat and a pickle fork on an air impact hammer trying to get a tie rod end to release with no luck. Then a mechanic friend of mine just whacked it really hard on the outside edge and the tie rod dropped right out in half a second.

I actually wish they were less expensive but I can't do anything to make them more plentiful. I miss the days when Z's were more affordable fun. I'd love to pick up a 280Z with A/C but anything clean is just too expensive. I guess as prices go up there is more incentive for people to fix them up but I see another Z on the road about every 2 months anymore and I miss the days when they'd be running all over the place, everything from beaten up ones barely still running to pristine examples all being driven.