440k

3pm your time is about 8am the next day in Australia, so if you call any time after 3-4pm you should be able to get them (except on a Friday afternoon, as that is Saturday here in Oz) HTH

AAh ok then. I just thought that with all this talk of there being no pre-301 numbered models in existence, then 170 might be something special. The car may be for sale, for the right price, but at the moment I think the owner wants to hang onto it. It's in need of a little TLC, but as I always say, if you ever found a '57 Chev in the same condition, you'd jump at the chance of owning it, regardless of the price. Lachlan - yes, I've joined the dark side. You have to admit though, sideways around Willowbak autocross track in an angry bridgeport is hella fun. Of course if I had Gainsey's driving talent, it would be double the fun.

So, can anyone shed some light on a 240K GT coupe, with number KHGC110000170? It has a compliance date of 12/72 and the letters GT stamped above where it says "seating capacity" I saw this one under a layer of dust in a workshop recently. Would it be Australian delivered? Oh, it was 4 speed too, tho not sure if that was factory fitted. Still has original L24 fitted.

Could be worse - could be a Magna, or worse yet, a rotary:finger: Peter - who is once again Datsun Free

I don't have too many specific details about the build up, only what I've picked up through conversations with Dave & Nikki, and a brief chat with John (the engine builder). Probably not my place to say too much about their build anyway, as they may want to keep some details to themselves (you never know). If you want to talk to dave directly, he hangs around at the NDSCC site, and goes by the name of Dave Mudguts What I do know is that in 12 years of rallying this car, they've had some awesome results with a measly 130hp at the wheels (ie beaten many top level AWD's). I'm keen to see what kinds of results they can achieve with some decent power, too.

Still, that's pretty impressive numbers at the wheels!! I've been following the build up of Dave Gaines' 240K rally engine (3.1 stroker I believe) built by John Siddins. Talking to nikki after their first event, they went through 3 sets of back tyres in the KCF short course rally. Apparently, the extra power was scary at times :eek: haven't seen any numbers or dyno sheets yet, but apparently they had the limiter at 6000 in the event, and used the ample torque available. Sounds good, too

Jim that C10 looks the goods. I always thought these things had a live leaf spring rear end though? 285hp at the wheels from a N/A L28? I find that a little far fetched. Maybe at the flywheel for a very well built L series, but at the wheels? Must be an amazing engine to get those figures. What RPM was that achieved at?

The RTS made a huge difference to Kingswoods of the era, and for its day was a pretty good thing. Whether it would out handle a 240K is another matter though. Remember, the HZ Kingswoods hit the market towards the end of the 240K's market run (about 1977-8) I owned a non RTS Kingswood (with trick 308) and drove many RTS equipped cars, and the RTS cars shat all over the very ill handling pre-RTS model. Even with upgraded springs, shocks and sway bars my Kingy never velt very stable (but then at the time I owned it, my other car was a 180B rally car with street setup) Of course today those 30 year old Kingswoods feel awful, but for their day were not a bad bit of kit.

I'd be surprised if you can get any specifically to suit, but there are a couple of other options. One is a product called "lite skinz" or something like that, which uses a soft, stick on plastic that you just stick straight over the lens. works pretty well and doesn't cut out too much light. The other is a set of individual covers that go over each light They are like a clear bubble that clamps to the lamp. these are good for stopping small stones, but can still be broke by bigger rocks. I used to use them on my 510 rally car

VL and R31 are almost identical AFAIK. when I had my R31 with CAS problems, I was using VL parts to try to troubleshoot (turned out to be a dry joint in the factory piggy back computer, fault codes just kept pointing to CAS) Any RB30 running EFI will have the same issues, as the spark would be ECU controlled. not to say you couldn't use it if you were doing an EFI conversion on the L6

Looks like a vacuum gauge to me. They were all the rage over here in the mid to late 70's when the fuel crisis was hitting its peak.

Please don't apologise Kent. I was just giving you a hard time - don't take it too seriously. To be honest, I prefer the look of something different to the rivets, and would prefer something like what you're doing, or allen head capscrews. Mine is never going to pass for a GTR clone - the flares are just to accommodate sufficiently wide rubber to serve my needs. As such, I'll probably take a few liberties with my installation. As for welding the rear guards - I would be a bit hesitant to try that myself too. My welding usually ends in many hours of grinding, or blowing holes through thin sheets, so I'd stick to letting the experts handle the tricky stuff. Although rubber seals between the flare and panel aren't authentic, I'd certainly want to seal the gap somehow, and would investigate something like a dark mastic sealant as the first option. To repeat myself, just watch the profile of the inner panel at the back. I'd bolt the rear suspension up without a spring, so you can run the suspension through its full range of travel to see exactly how much clearance you need for the tyres.

Yep, strut bar is the radius rod, or caster rod. This is the bar going forwards from your front control arm, and prevents fore / aft movement of your front wheel. Those bushes are the ones that attach the front end of the castor rod to the chassis at the front of the chassis rail in the engine bay.

So you ignored my advice from last Wed, but now choose to believe 2 others who confirmed what I said? Well more the fool you That'll learn ya:finger:

I'm pretty sure that the factory flares were riveted on. I'll check the parts manual, but I recall seeing the rivets listed individually. Lachlan would be the best source of info, as he has done the most research, and whether his car is accurate or not, it looks horny!! I'd put some kind of seal between the flare and the body,, as you can see some gaps between the flare and the guard (when looking from underneath, you can see daylight in places). Minor detail I know, but something that would annoy me. Either some kind of glue (sikaflex) or rubber seal as you suggested. I think they're either gloss balck, or gunmetal - don't think they were matt black. Personally, I wouldn't try to mould the flares onto the guard, as this would spoil the factory look (IMHO) and could cause cracking in the joins. I imagine there will be a bit of flex between the flare and the guard when you cut away the guard to fit the flare. If you bond the 2 together, any minor movement or flex in the guard will likely crack the seam. Personally, I'd prepare the guards (trim the guard to fit, then roll the edge outwards slightly to meet the profile of the flare, if you know what I mean) and give them their top coat, and do the same to the flares before fitting them. don't forget that the rear guards will need a bit more surgery to get the wheel arch profile correct to suit the wider wheels. The inner guard has to be cut away (inner guard on GTR is actually different part number to stock 2 door). This is essential to ensure clearance for wheel travel with deep dish wheels. Note I haven't done this on my car yet, but from what I've seen on others, these are some of the traps I'll be watching for. HTH Peter

Well, clearly my post has the most weight in this entire thread Seriously though, off topic discussions never seemed to hurt here before, and they make for some interesting conversations. i didn't see any of the deleted comments, so can't....err....comment. Agreed if someone wants to come here and slag off at people and their cars, then this isn't the place for them (mopstly mature, level headed people around here). However, if someone expresses an opinion that differs from everyone else (as long as they're a bit tactful and diplomatic) then let them have their say. My 2c anyway.

I would imagine so. I bought a 1600 in NSW with no compliance plates. It was registered at the time, so rang RTA beforehand to see if I'd have troubles. They said that if it remains unregistered for a period of longer than (6 months I think) then the only way to re-register it is to get a letter from Nissan saying that the car complies with all of the factory specs and ADR's applicable at the time it was built. I can't see that being too easy to get. Mind you, it was over 10 years ago, so things may have changed.

Don't sell it, Lachlan. Put it into storage or something. You've put too much blood, sweat and tears into it over the years. If you sell it, you'll regret it forever. Congrats on the new job, by the way, but don't make any rash decisions. Maybe even put it into storage up here for a few months till you find your feet in Melbourne. When you get a house with at least double garage, you can keep the GTR safely stored away, and buy a cheap charade[1] for the daily commute. Trust me on this. [1] Cheap generic boring commuter that's cheap to run and doesn't matter if it gets scratched, dinged, stolen etc.

Just found another gallery on the NDSCC website (not that I've been searching ) Clicky Apparently there was another photography mob out there, so I'll let you know if I find out any more links. now to stop hijacking this thread.

Hey, Lachlan, you're famous...again. Are those sizes right? Is your back wheel 14x9 -15 offset? If that's the case, then I'd better rethink the 15x8 -4 offset I was planning. Might have to beg / borrow / steal a pair off Gainsey's car :devious: How'd your ride in the Fat Lady go? Can the man steer, or what? I started sorting myself out later in the day, but still managed to have a few moments. Few good shots of the Fat Lady here Go to the QLD Rally Championships gallery, then select the NDSCC Sponsor Day gallery. For example And another

The R30 setup can be used, but TBH, the pads look a little small for serious braking. I feel there are better options out there. Since there's no caliper that just bolts up, you need to make up a caliper bracket anyway, so why not go for something a bit better. The Series 3 RX7 pads I use in the back of the RX2 (in Fiat calipers) look much bigger and better than the piddly R30 pads, plys Series 3RX7's have vented back discs and share the Datto stud pattern. They may be too deep to fit the 240K rear arm, as I haven't checked it out yet. Otherwise, there are the 2 piston alloy calipers ysed on R32+ skylines (if you have a thing about keeping it Nissan) A little research of a DBA catalogue and a lucas catalogue goes a long way.

I know, I know. The problem isn't so much the lack of money, as the lack of time and Space. As Lachlan can attest, I have no room to work on the K (in fact, it has crap stacked on top of it) whereas at least the RX2 is in the yard where I have room to work on it. The RX2 is a rally car, and as I learnt many years ago, when you have a rally car, all other projects take a back seat. :surprised Ideally, the K will be my fire breathing track monster (two turbos and 8 cylinders should make 'er interesting in a straight line) and the RX2 will be the forest fun. One day I'll get a decent shed:(

Hey, I gots me one of those. Mine has 4 doors though. It's relegated the poor 240K to the back of the shed to continue collecting dust for a few more years though.

Have a look in The Bible. C110 and C210 use the same 11" discs. 240Z are almost the same, but not exactly.

If the adjustable strut tops are made for a standard C110 / C210 spring, then they can easily modify the setup by making an adaptor to match your upper spring seat to the strut top. IMO, this will give you a better result, as they can re-use the bearing (part No 54325). A lot of custom coilover kits omit this bearing, and it can give you extremely heavy steering, or worse yet, erratic steering weight. As the strut tops are designed to house this bearing (I'd assume so, anyway), all you need to do is make up a spacer that mates to the top of your coilover upper spring seat, and mounts up to the bottom of the bearing. What Stewart Wilkins doesn't know about Datsuns probably hasn't been written yet. He might cost a bit more, but rest assured you'll end up with a professional result that works. As for something fun to replace your GTR, a friend of mine used to own an R32 GTR (with some "enhancements") and a Cooper S replica. If he wanted to drive fast (and worry about his licence all the time) he took the GTR out. If he wanted to have fun, he took the Mini.