440k

Good stuff, Kent. Good to see someone is progressing with their project (that's a dig at myself, nobody else here). In the 2nd last photo, it looks like the D-bush clamp isn't seated against the metal (ie where it bolts down, it looks like there's a gap). Is this the case? If so, then make sure you use a spacer to fill the gap, so that you can bolt the clamp down hard against steel. Otherwise the bolts will break or come loose. If there's not a gap, then ignore my ramblings above:tapemouth I would recommend replacing the end bushes too. These are a standard generic bush, that would fit most aftermarket swaybars. Replacing these will give you the most benefit from the new sway bar. The rear one shouldn't be too hard to install (I can't open the link). I think on 1600's, they bolt into the rear control arm in place of the bump stops (ie they use the same holes). Not sure about the 240K, but I guess it would be similar. Cheers

Or you could kill 2 birds with the one stone. Just fit R&P steering to the car :tapemouth . I have an R32 steering rack in the garden shed not doing very much. (I mean, why have a simple solution, when you can get into all kinds of complex exoic engineering exercises to solve the same problem)

Pretty sure the diff will fit, but it has different shafts. The DR 30 will have CV joints, whereas the 240K one has universals. If you have the complete DR30 diff and axles, you should have enough parts to do the swap. I don't know whether any machining or modification is needed though. Also, some of the newer diffs are a different length to the older ones. Just check this before committing. HTH

Hey Cam, how about you stop hijacking everyone's freaking threads??? We get the picture - you're after a brake booster. OK one post will suffice - we're not idiots around here, ok? There are other boosters (apart from 240K) that will fit, and you can buy boosters brand new, so how about a bit of research. Sorry if I'm a bit abrupt, but it's poor form to sign up as a new member, then proceed to hijack everyone else's threads for your own personal agenda.

Cool. Yes, these things are calles lots of different names - even STONE TRAYS. Sorry for the confusion. I guess we don't always sing off the same sheet of music, hey? Mostly good, but frustrating as hell at times. They do some things a little differently over here. Not to worry - it's a good challenge. We're spending christmas with relatives in Finland, so that'll be nice and cold (inside the arctic circle). Hubba Hubba!!

Hey Lachlan, The stone tray is the panel under the front bumper, visible in the front shots. Mine is badly damaged (as you have probably seen) and fixing it may take a little more magic than I'm capable. The beaver panel is the same panel at the back (I believe this one is spot welded in). Yes, I'm in America at the moment - West Virginia to be exact. Let's just say it's an experience :stupid: . Heading off from here in about 6 weeks, and coming home via Europe (about 2-3 weeks touring around).

Excellent, Lachlan!! If you do part it out, I call dibs on the engine and front stone tray / radiator support and beaver tray (heck, I'll take all the panels just in case) The rust looks bad, but it's always repairable. It's amazing what you can achieve with a bit of sheet metal and a mig (or oxy welder). How's the glass on it? Worth keeping that too. Oh, those wheels are original C210 skyline wheels, and look great on a 1600. You should be able to sell them for a few bucks if you ever need to. Look forward to seeing it when I get back. If you haven't already done the conversion by then (Jan) I'll give you a hand with it. Peter

That's the one that was advertised in the trading post for 800 a couple of months ago. The guy had an offer of 1500 from UK - allegedly. Looks like it's got potential, but needs more than a bit of TLC to get it going. Worth $800 maybe. Oh, by the way, it has an L24 under the bonnet - don't know where he got the idea it was a 3 litre.

Yeh I know. I put him onto it - sounds like a good buy. That's why I said "another to add to the collection" Me too .I won't be back till January. Otherwise I'd buy this one for muself. It's certainly a good'un (bit of rust, and needs a good tune up, but would make a great project)

It's Baaaack..... Hey, Lachlan, looks like the "other" datto guy didn't come through with the goods. Another one to add to the collection?

Also: The thermostat helps keep up pressure, to distribute flow evenly through the head - very important. If it's overheating at 100km/h, then you have a problem. You're only using 20-30kW at this speed, and the airflow through the radiator is better than any electric fan could ever hope for. My bet is the radiator is blocked enough to stop it working. I had the same problem on my 1600 - it ran very hot at 100km/h, despite repeated flushes. I put a new radiator in it, and it never looked like getting hot again. If your carby is overfilling, it's probably your float valve seat. Either the seat has some gunk on it, or has worn out/ corroded, preventing it from sealing off. You DO NOT need the mechanical pump in line with the electri pump. Run the mechanical pump inlet hose directly to the carby. DO IT, NOW!!! :classic: The water can't boil out of the radiator. If it does boil, the steam will still escape through the radiator cap. Putting in an overflow reservoir will show you whether this is what's happening. Hope this helps.

I'm led to believe it's fairly common.The fixes range from something as simple as tightening the nut on the output shaft, to replacing the 5th gear dog, to a total rebuild. I had a K box in my 1600, and after unsuccessfully trying to fix it twice, I just learnt to drive with my knee under the gear stick to hold it in 5th (dodgy brothers). I got worried when the box stopped doing it all of its own accord. ChrisA - yep, they're IRS. Just one of the many reasons we love them so Oooo. That black one is seriously sexy

Yeh, I thought that the manual swap would be on the cards. As I said before, you could tidy it up a bit, put your old auto into it and then re-sell the car to get most of your money back. Saturday morning would be good for me - any time after around 8am, if you like. I'm pretty free all weekend, so could work it in at other times too. Let me know when suits you.

Hey Lachlan, let me know if you want someone to come and look at it with you. I'd be happy to help out. Would you look at restoring it, or just for the parts for your Manual conversion? The guy's a bit misinformed (only 200 built?? WTF??) but that's to be expected these days. The main thing to watch with the 5 speeds is whether it pops out of 5th under load, so you need to be able to drive it on the highway to test it properly.

Is this the vertical seal that goes between the front and back side windows? In that case, I'd love to grab a pair too, as mine are both FUBARED. Put me down for a pair (make it 2 if you can spare them. Again - you can never have too many spares :nervous:

I can't for the life of me see why you would have to do that. As I said before, the mechanical pump doesn't start to build up pressure until the engine's actually turning over, and the car runs fine without it, why would an electric pump be any different? Sorry, but I think in this case the guy's telling you porkie pies - simple as that. (I'm not trying to discredit him - if it's the guy I'm thinking about, then he knows a lot about Datsuns) If his race car needs to be primed before he can start it, then as I said before, it's a simple matter of turning on the ignition and waiting 2-3 seconds before cranking the engine. I did that for 6 years in my Datto rally car and road car. Note that the car didn't actually need it, as it would always start without the fuel pump running. I just liked to hear it build up fuel pressure before starting (and I could tell by the fuel pump sound whether there was a fuel leak, or suction blockage or some other fuel delivery problem)

I think that the mechanic was confused with an EFI car. EFI cars are designed to run the pump for 2-3 seconds to build up the fuel pressure, then the pump cuts out till the engine starts cranking. This saves dead-heading the fuel pump. On a standard carby engine, the fuel pump doesn't pump until you start to crank the engine. An electric pump would be set up to come on with the ignition, so it would always prime the fuel lines for a second or so anyway. I used to turn on the ognition and wait for the pump to build up pressure (you can hear it happen) then start the car. Besides, if your carby is in good condition (ie no leaks) then the fuel won't drain out, and there's no need to build up any pressure / prime the system.

Yep, I had you in mind when I looked at it, Lachlan. The car would probably drive (he didn't start it up), as it is mostly complete (all the trim, handles etc. are off the car). If you got it for $800 (seems unlikely now) you could take the good bits for your car, put your auto in it and re-sell it for around the same money as it cost you. Not a bad proposition, hey?

No, not mine. I saw it in the trading post last week. It's a project some guy has been working on for 4 years (translation, it's like all good projects, and has sat in his shed for 4 years) Looks to be a fairly good, straight body, with a few spots of rust. L24, 5 speed. There are a couple of spare bumpers and other bits (boot was full of junk, so hard to tell what belonged to the car, and what was spare). He says all the chrome trims are there. Guy was asking $800 ONO (which seemed a good price to me) but when I got there, he said he's had an offer of $1800 from UK. Def not worth that kind of money to me, but maybe to someone else. He doesn't know a great deal about these cars, as he tried to tell me it had a 3 litre Skyline engine in it The guy's phone number is 07 5573 6926, if anyone's interested.

Kent, Looks like most has been answered so far, but just make sure there are no blockages on the suction side of the pump (will have a buch bigger impact than a blockage on the delivery side) Also, a small split in a suction hose WILL suck air in - no doubt about it. Specially if it's close to the pump. Might be worth re-kitting the pump. A split in the diaphragm will mean she no work, and could allow petrol to mix with the oil. As Lachlan said, throw an electric pump in there. It's not that hard. Just mount it in the boot. route the first suction hose from the tank to the pump, then put another hose from the pump discharge to the metal fuel line (where the original hose was connected). Make sure you use good quality new hose, and connectors at all times, and the hose is correctly sized for the tails. Then in the engine bay, you bypass the fuel pump and route the hose directly from the filter to the carby. Simple. Although, if you're not mechanically inclined, then a car's fuel system is not the place to teach yourself mechanics 101, if you know what I mean. :eek:

Just hope you do a better job of the top radiator hose

Whoa!! it's not my modification - I can't take credit for it. :nervous: It's a fairly common mod done on 1600's, which consists of slotting the holes on the rear crossmember that hold the rear control arms. This has been done on seriously lowered IRS dattos since the 70's. Datsport sells exchange X-members with the mod, and an adjusting bolt. See HERE for some pics and details of the Datsport kit. Essentially, you slot the outer brackets fore / aft, so that you can adjust the toe. The inner brackets are slotted up and down, so you can adjust camber. This can be done at home by a semi skilled handyman with a pencil grinder (or round file). The big trick is to hold it all in place once the adjustment has been done. Yes, the track is measured from the centreline of the back tyres, so if you put big offset wheels on, then this increases your track. I Think that we may get around it with the fact that the GTR had a wider track (I think? Did it???). Thing is, as long as it's well done, and you have flares to stop the tyres protruding past the guards, you will get away with it (ie not be picked on for it). I don't know the implications re insurance etc though.

Kent, don't worry about the diff. They seldom break, even on high powered rally cars. Make sure yours is in good condition (rebuild it if necessary, setup the contact patterns / backlash) and it should be sweet. Take a box of electrical crimp connectors and spare wire, spare headlight globes, maybe assorted nuts and bolts, a cordless drill perhaps, maybe a spare control arm or 2, some fuel hose, saddle clamps and tek screws (dodgy I know but it may just get you out of trouble in a bind). Make sure your seats are strong, and not likely to break off their mounts (fixed aftermarket seats would be a great idea - your bum and back will love you for it on the rough stuff, despite getting a numb bum on anything over a 2 hour drive). Maybe a couple of spare wiper arms, fit a big aftermarket washer bottle (even put extra nozzles mounted on your wipers to help clean the windscreen - as Mr Moffat used to say, "If you can't see well, you can't drive well") What else? spare relays, light globes, electrical connectors, maybe a tube of Sikaflex (never know when you mioght need it) and some soprt of slide hammer / puller or even a recovery strap. If you do have a bingle, at least you might be able to pull a damaged guard off a tyre so you can get back to civilisation. Radiator stop leak? Maybe some sort of guard over the radiator to stop sticks / stones puncturing it?? That's about it for me. Oh, if you're going to have any decent driving lights, then get a spare (80A) alternator Oh, spare air cleaners, and / or cleaning / re-oil kit if you use anything like Finer Filters K&N etc. Maybe a few spare wheel nuts (imagine accidentally knocking yours down a drain while you're changing a tyre - I saw Brett Middleton's rally crew almost do that at Bega a few years ago - we were servicing just next to them) Points, plugs, carby kit, fuel filter(s) I'm spent for now :classic:

Hey, Lach, that's one sweet Bluebird. I'd buy that one too, if I could Imagine it with an FJ20T, slammed on 17x9 Watanabes and wicked widebody kit with a tubbed rear end and ford 9" :bandit: I'm joking peoples .Too good to butcher, IMHO Kent, I know that up here in the backward......er....smart state you can get a full tower to tower cage fitted for about $1400 (which would meet FIA specs). I wouldn't skimp out on a dodgy rollcage (not saying this one is dodgy, but I seriously doubt it would be anything hard core.

Here's yet another 2 door 240K. This one runs triple webers, a cam and a bit of other good gear. I would be very serious about it if I weren't going OS for the next 6 months