Corganx33

go to autobody101.com and read up on what you can there, they are very helpful on doing work such as painting a car. I did the similar to you. Am using an epoxy primer to seal the car after stripping

Little late to this thread.. anything left ???? If so, I'm looking.... let me know

Hey John, I actually did email you yesterday and asked about your business, mentioned that I was working in Waltham which is right around the corner from you. I'm working on getting a list together to send to you. I'd love to come to the road rally, but alas, My z isn't the drivable type of Z yet. its been down for a year, just got the suspension completely redone and body is getting ready for paint... the rest is in a bunch of rubbermaid/tupperware bins currently. Hopefully soon though, my neighbor has a maroon 72 sitting in his front yard, so I think I picked a good place to move to. :-) Tom, hey, long time no talk.. glad the rotisserie is working out for you. I'm starting to get settled in up here. Bought a house in Haverhill, Ma. My z is currently at my parents house in upstate NY so I haven't even seen it in about 6 months. Going to get it in the next couple weeks. I'm hoping to get a strong push this summer going to get it fixed up and drivable again. After looking through baddogparts parts list, he may actually have everything I need to finish her off and have her looking respectable and driving even better. I'll be sure to send you some more progress pics when I get the time.

Where do I get parts for my 240z up here aside from mail order? Any good places to go to get parts for our cars? Just moved to the area ( about 1/2 hour outside of Boston )a couple months ago and now that I'm situated, starting to look around and trying to finish up my Z. Also, any good local websites ? I found nezclub online but was wonderring about others. Also if people meet up around here... I'll be around all summer

Nah, I had this too, it is probably raised both front and back? I read somewhere that you had to pre-compress the struts fully a couple times before they'd sit at the correct ride height? Just what I read, haven't tried it yet ...

I dolleyed my Z from PA to NC ( about 500 miles ) with the front wheels on the ground and the rear on the dolley.... it works fine as long as you remember to lock the steering column straight so that the wheels won't turn while you are driving. Its definitely the easiest methoid to doing it, the alternative is removing the driveshaft and having the rear wheels on the ground... or putting it on a full trailer.

that sounds about right. A friend and I were able to lift and move it around the shop. Much over 400 wouldn't have been moveable by two of us I think.

Thats what I wanted to confirm. Thanks Arne. The amount of "massaging" for the passenger floorpan vs. the driver floorpan was significant, so I wanted to verify that nothing was wrong.

The center of the tunnel isn't offset, but the sides of the tunnel are assymetrical. 73 240z. The transmission tunnel side on the passenger side of the car comes out at a slant closer to the outside of the car and the drivers side is more vertical. Its not really noticeable unless you are installing the floorpans. And no, its not b/c something shifted when I cut out the original ones. This was measured before and after, both times it was off....

Everything I've read says that if you use the p90a head with hydraulic lifters you've got to use the stock cam with it because the lifters aren't able to "lift" any further to accomodate a higher lift cam. This is one of the reasons ppl choose to use the P90 instead of the p90a, to avoid the hydraulic lifters. Not speaking from experience, just from what I've read as I've gone along and tried to decide what head to use in my car.

Just curious, has anyone measured how much the transmission tunnel is offset to the passengers side of the vehicle?

I did this this weekend. I had to take the rubber steering coupler off, but after that the ujoint fit throught the hole no problems.

I would think that measuring an engine with no load would be impractical in a real world application. Isn't it dangerous for the engine as well? The load you attach to an engine will change any of your results. Different loads = different results = what are you trying to accomplish?

They are cheap and I might as well replace it while its out of the car? EDIT: I thought they were at least, now that you've asked I can't seem to find where I found the replacement part. I thought VB had them, but looking in their catalog I now can't seem to find them. Either way, its not that they need replacing so much as it is what I said in the next paragraph. I don't really have a solid answer. I was going to paint the steering column shaft while it was out of the car to match the rest of the suspension, semi-gloss black. Would prevent anymore corrosion from forming, I've wire brushed and steel wooled most of the rust/corrosion/dirt off the shaft and wanted to paint it, but I didn't want to paint over the joint shown while it was together, figuring that the first time it was moved it would chip the paint.... No circlips, its supposed to be a press fit, and I've seen a few how-to's on how to remove them... but they don't work. I'm thinking the how-to's might have been for a different year, which may have had a slightly different u-joint here.