Corganx33

go to autobody101.com and read up on what you can there, they are very helpful on doing work such as painting a car. I did the similar to you. Am using an epoxy primer to seal the car after stripping

Little late to this thread.. anything left ???? If so, I'm looking.... let me know

Hey John, I actually did email you yesterday and asked about your business, mentioned that I was working in Waltham which is right around the corner from you. I'm working on getting a list together to send to you. I'd love to come to the road rally, but alas, My z isn't the drivable type of Z yet. its been down for a year, just got the suspension completely redone and body is getting ready for paint... the rest is in a bunch of rubbermaid/tupperware bins currently. Hopefully soon though, my neighbor has a maroon 72 sitting in his front yard, so I think I picked a good place to move to. :-) Tom, hey, long time no talk.. glad the rotisserie is working out for you. I'm starting to get settled in up here. Bought a house in Haverhill, Ma. My z is currently at my parents house in upstate NY so I haven't even seen it in about 6 months. Going to get it in the next couple weeks. I'm hoping to get a strong push this summer going to get it fixed up and drivable again. After looking through baddogparts parts list, he may actually have everything I need to finish her off and have her looking respectable and driving even better. I'll be sure to send you some more progress pics when I get the time.

Where do I get parts for my 240z up here aside from mail order? Any good places to go to get parts for our cars? Just moved to the area ( about 1/2 hour outside of Boston )a couple months ago and now that I'm situated, starting to look around and trying to finish up my Z. Also, any good local websites ? I found nezclub online but was wonderring about others. Also if people meet up around here... I'll be around all summer

Nah, I had this too, it is probably raised both front and back? I read somewhere that you had to pre-compress the struts fully a couple times before they'd sit at the correct ride height? Just what I read, haven't tried it yet ...

I dolleyed my Z from PA to NC ( about 500 miles ) with the front wheels on the ground and the rear on the dolley.... it works fine as long as you remember to lock the steering column straight so that the wheels won't turn while you are driving. Its definitely the easiest methoid to doing it, the alternative is removing the driveshaft and having the rear wheels on the ground... or putting it on a full trailer.

that sounds about right. A friend and I were able to lift and move it around the shop. Much over 400 wouldn't have been moveable by two of us I think.

Thats what I wanted to confirm. Thanks Arne. The amount of "massaging" for the passenger floorpan vs. the driver floorpan was significant, so I wanted to verify that nothing was wrong.

The center of the tunnel isn't offset, but the sides of the tunnel are assymetrical. 73 240z. The transmission tunnel side on the passenger side of the car comes out at a slant closer to the outside of the car and the drivers side is more vertical. Its not really noticeable unless you are installing the floorpans. And no, its not b/c something shifted when I cut out the original ones. This was measured before and after, both times it was off....

Everything I've read says that if you use the p90a head with hydraulic lifters you've got to use the stock cam with it because the lifters aren't able to "lift" any further to accomodate a higher lift cam. This is one of the reasons ppl choose to use the P90 instead of the p90a, to avoid the hydraulic lifters. Not speaking from experience, just from what I've read as I've gone along and tried to decide what head to use in my car.

Just curious, has anyone measured how much the transmission tunnel is offset to the passengers side of the vehicle?

I did this this weekend. I had to take the rubber steering coupler off, but after that the ujoint fit throught the hole no problems.

I would think that measuring an engine with no load would be impractical in a real world application. Isn't it dangerous for the engine as well? The load you attach to an engine will change any of your results. Different loads = different results = what are you trying to accomplish?

They are cheap and I might as well replace it while its out of the car? EDIT: I thought they were at least, now that you've asked I can't seem to find where I found the replacement part. I thought VB had them, but looking in their catalog I now can't seem to find them. Either way, its not that they need replacing so much as it is what I said in the next paragraph. I don't really have a solid answer. I was going to paint the steering column shaft while it was out of the car to match the rest of the suspension, semi-gloss black. Would prevent anymore corrosion from forming, I've wire brushed and steel wooled most of the rust/corrosion/dirt off the shaft and wanted to paint it, but I didn't want to paint over the joint shown while it was together, figuring that the first time it was moved it would chip the paint.... No circlips, its supposed to be a press fit, and I've seen a few how-to's on how to remove them... but they don't work. I'm thinking the how-to's might have been for a different year, which may have had a slightly different u-joint here.

Need some help in the "how to remove these" department take a look. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/631840/7 I've tried the method using two sockets, one larger than the bushing, 1 smaller than the bushing, press them out with a vice... doesn't seem to do any good. Anyone else have a better method to removing these? Thanks

Couple things you could do. 1. Rent a storage unit. usually under 100 bucks a month and gives you a place to work on your Z. I've currently got mine in a 300 Square Foot Space that I'm paying $150/mo. for. 2. If you are planning on a professional paint job in the future... It may prove productive to spray bomb it. A $20 of rustoleum spray paint could make it nice and shiny enough and look good enough so that the neighbors would stop complaining. Obviously NOT a permanent solution, but if the car gets painted later on anyways, may help.

Ospho is not a paint, its a phosphoric acid. Its more like the metal ready you use before applying POR-15. Por-15 is a paint.

knotted wire wheel and an angle grinder made super short work of my paint and undercoating. Just wear goggles

Yes, I'd be interested in selling it, hoping to be done with it in the next couple months. I also have a bunch of other stuff I may sell to lighten my travel load, air compressor, welder, front quarter panels, etc... PM me so this thread doesn't get hijacked....its already kinda wayward now :-) Commies? , nobody up there but us yankees. I grew up a yankee, came down here for a job... haven't really been able to grow accustomed to it ( seriously.. its 110 out today, what the hell is up with that?? ) so after 4 years, now I'm going back ... Have nothing against people down here, just isn't the life for me.

Zkid, Good to know... I was going on the fact that many people attempt to increase the rigidity of there chassis due to the fact that the unibody does flex a fair amount when driving. I was thinking that turning the body on its side or upside down may induce some of this flex, and you wouldn't want to weld a floorpan in place if this was the case. More of a "better safe than sorry" comment. But come to think of it, I've moved mine around a good deal trying to get the best fit. "welding upside down always sets me on fire" I think that should be the quote of the day... NCZ: Good old Raleigh, NC.. .at least until November or so, then I'll be in Good old Marlborough Massachussetts. I'd love to come down and help, but I'm not sure how much time I'll have in the next two months to do so. I have to get my car off the rotisserie and back on its suspension and wheels by move time... My best advice to you is... cut small, then when your positive the hole is too small, cut larger. Other than that, if you are using Charlie's pans, its easier if you remove the seat mount, by a lot. Just do one pan at a time. I'll post pics once mine are in and neatened up. If I can't get down there, I can at least post pics and help that way

rays240z, no, keep the car upright and fit the floors that way. It helps ensure that the body remains straight.

Z kid, Your currently my new hero. After attempting and failing to install my new floors for my z at least 3 times... I took some notes on what you did and tried it that way with the screws holding it in place. Worked like a charm, and got my drivers side in and bolted up ( not welded yet ) in under half an hour. Great post!!!

Thanks guys, I think I have a decent idea on how to handle this now...

if you know how to weld you can buy the supplies for ~200 or so and make it yourself..... Its all steel stock. Thats what most people on here do. Also If I can find it, there is a guy in Texas that will build them for people for around $450 shipped. I'll try to find the link