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Corganx33

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Everything posted by Corganx33

  1. will it rust even if I use a weld thru primer?
  2. Right Beandip. I'm not worried about looks when it comes to the inside of the front ventillation "chambers" or whatever they are called. I want the rust protection... And if I don't cut it open I can't really do a proper prep job....
  3. Of course I'm bringing the Z :-) I grew up in upstate NY, know all about cars rusting out in a matter of 2-3 years... I'llbe sure to have a garage for the car...
  4. I've seen that wand before, had actually planned on using that system to help me undercoat the car. I think thats quite possibly a better solution than cutting it open. One question though. All the rustproofing systems say to apply to bare metal thats been pretreated ( POR-15 needs an application of metal ready, Rust encapsulator says to wipe it clean with laquer thinner. If i can't do this and just spray onto whats there will it still work well enough ? I really wasn't looking forward to openning this area up anyway. Massachussetts huh? I'm moving there in November for a new job outside of Boston.
  5. Corganx33 posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15524&highlight=EFI+relay This should help you.
  6. Been working on fixing the body of my car. My question is should I open this ventilation area up while I have easy access to it. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/631840/7 I could cut it open and rust proof inside, welding it back up after. Has anyone done this? and is it really a necessary step or overkill? Thanks
  7. Corganx33 posted a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  8. Corganx33 posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I should clarify, zbarn sells used OEM ones... off old cars for 125, not used tabco reproductions
  9. Corganx33 posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I haven't tried fitment yet, but they look identical to my old ones.... well... identical with less rust. From other reports I've read they fit fine. I do not see the quarter panels available from Tabco. http://www.rustrepair.com/repair_panels/onlinecat.htm?r=ru&p=sm-datsun everything else but those it seems. I searched several sites selling tabco parts... none list the fenders, if you know of them send me a link. I paid 189 for mine which sounded reasonable, especially since I got free shipping. Zbarn sells used ones for 125....
  10. Corganx33 posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I just received two front quarter panels from VB last week. They arrived in great shape... only one tiny ding that can be tapped out easily. I'd recommend them anyday. They package them well to prevent damage. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/631840/3 There is a picture on there of them teh day they arrived.
  11. Mine were pretty well corroded... but deformation could definitely have also been an issue as well. I saw someplace else someone had used a 12 gauge shotgun bore cleaner ( wire brush kind ) to clean out the inside of the spindle pin bore so I tried that on the end of my electric drill... Worked incredibly well to clean up that area and enable the new spindle pins to slide in smooth.
  12. rebello racing and sunbelt performance ( www.rebelloracing.com and www.sunbeltperformance.com ) are two of the best known high performance L6 engine builders out there. A search on any of the forums will get you tons of info, along with there sites. They are $$, but if you want to keep the L6, have an NA engine and lots of power they seem to be the way to go.... I wish I had the cash now to buy a used one up... will be a while before I can scrape that change together.
  13. Corganx33 posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    what kind of caulk do you recommend?
  14. Looks good, I just went through this as well.... The spindle pins were by far the worst thing to try and take off. My solution... BIG hammer... and buy new pins. hehe

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