Corganx33

Dragon, Spirit Garage is all in ( I'm assuming ) Japanese. ( Could be some other Eastern language ). Do you know of any stateside dealers that sell the CF rear hatch?

1973 240z; Needs work I just found out I'm transferring to another state with my company... Unfortunately I'm not up to the task of trying to haul all my belongings along with the z. First $1000 takes everything, cash only please. The Good: Complete 1973 240z with clear title. All #'s on the car match and the engine has been converted with early 1972 SU's. Has the original automatic transmission as well. The car originally was blue #115with a white interior. Its frame rails are very solid, there is rust on the car, I've listed where below in the "bad" section. Also included is a newer L28 engine ( N42 head/block ) and 5 speed transmission from a 77 280z. The L28 is in good condition and has an advanced cam in it, but I'm not sure of the grind. There are a bunch of extras such as distributors, starters, radiators as well, along with 2 engine stands and a hoist. The Bad; Like I said before, its complete, but I was in the middle of a restoration when I found out I was moving, so that means its in parts. Doors removed, engine removed, interior removed. Nothing, NOTHING done so far is irreversable. All I've done really is cleaning and examining, haven't gotten a chance to start rebuilding yet. The L24 engine would need a rebuild if its going back into the car. the head has excessively worn lash pads and they'll need to be replaced. It does start and run, weakly though. Rust Locations; There is rust under the battery tray, along with about a 3 inch long hole. If you are restoring, you'll need new metal here. Otherwise, the area is still pretty solid though its rusty. I've removed the tar like dealer installed protection on the bottom along with the quarterpanel and you can see there is a lot of good metal there. Floor pans, a couple of the drain holes have rusted out, along with the floor supports. The floor supports need to be replaced, the floor pans might as well be done along with it though you wouldn't have to The frame rails them selves are solid and don't appear to need repair. Pics before I started taking it apart can be seen here http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/631840

Datsun 1978 HARDBODY STATIONWAGON great on gas, great for a begining driver, great on gas, great hard body for all those beginner accidents. needs cosmetic work, but is road worthy, ready to go great on gas. liability insurance cheap. great on gas. a non computerized engine, easy to work on. great on gas $1500 I wonder if it gets good gas mileage??

Its funny ... if this were a "cost to restore your z car thread..." 40k wouldn't phase most people... a lot of people here have 20-30k in there cars and could probably find another 10k in stuff there cars need.... But since he paints it a funny color and puts a Nissan turbo diesel in it.... 40k is ridiculous.

I think people have to make a judgment call here... if you really are dead set against people copying your pics.... don't post them....

There is a button above the Insert Button called Print Screen..... Its on everybodies keyboard, and regardless of if you disable downloads I can still go to your gallery, hit that button, open up Paint, and paste the screen contents into paint... A little crop and adjust and save as a jpeg and I'm done.... Or if they are really determined they can just find out where the file is saved and grab it from there. Yes, disabling right click would slow some people down, but anyone determined to get your pic can do it. Personally I wouldn't do it, but I'm just saying that this is pointless if people are determined to try and get your picture, they are going to do it.

Looks good DatsunZGuy When you say you applied a coat of Mahogany Stain..... can you be more specific? What kind of stain? alcohol or water based? thanks...

oh thought in that post you were summing up everyone else's comments

so what was the original poster here getting at? Has anybody actually mentioned it?

My 73 has that black stripey thingy... and those bumpers....

So what if I saw your car at a car show... took a picture and posted that on my web page along with a bunch of other pictures I've taken... Lets say I'm not trying to profit off of anything... I just have a gallery of Z's that I like and wanted to save the pictures of to use as reference on say a restoration....

"Rwd has alot more power the fwd" ... no..... but your right about the burnouts!!! I always thought front wheel drive cars burning out looked kinda weird. You won't notice drastic differences unless you really push the car Besides the obvious differences, if you think about it, in a rwd car... the rear wheels are forced to spin, so on less than ideal surfaces, the rear wheels would lose traction first, before the front wheels. On a FWD car, its the exact opposite. Rear wheel drive cars have more of a tendency to spin out ( over steer ) in sharp turns when the traction is lost, front wheel drive cars have more of a tendency to skid ( under steer ) in a similar situation.... You won't notice drastic differences unless you really push the car or get in a situation with low traction. just note that this is a simplified generalization of what you'll find as differences... other factors come into effect as well that have been ignored....suspension and tire differences have a huge effect on driveability in differnet conditions. such as RWD cars tend to be sports cars with stiff suspensions and summer tires that make it difficult to drive in snow....Bill's right on this one.. you put good winter tires on a sports car and some weight over the driving axle and you can drive a sports car in snow.... but then, why would you...?

http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html go down to the cam section

http://www.lambolounge.com/Body/Paint/paint.asp go there and read, a lot of good information. HP and PSI aren't as important as SCFM to an HVLP gun. Hows that for some acronyms

Isn't that a picture of the floor support? maybe I'm confused.....

this is usually b/c people try to use the cinder blocks incorrectly for support. If you have the two holes in the cinder block sitting horizontally, you have very little supporting strength, you end up with an inch of cement supported above a hole in the block. This crushes easily. Positioning the Cinder blocks with the holes vertically provides a much stronger base to support weight above the block b/c there is no hole now for the cement to collapse into. of course.... use caution and common sense as well.... you should be ok.

i think it means 30k should be 60% of what its worth today... or an easier way to say it is they are saying their reserve is somewhere around the 50k mark.

Since you are scanning them in, It might be useful to just post them in the technical articles section. I bet a ton of people actually could use this information. I for one know I could

pedals? master/slave cylinders? do you want the differential too.. compare the ratios. radiator? are you going from carb to FI? I don't know much about zx's... do they have an ECU? thats off the top of my head..... you could probably go many different ways on this... so i was just trying to give you things to think about....

man.. if only I lived close enough for pickup.......

I think you need to be more specific. Tell people what your "obvious" stuff is... they may point out what you miss...