zcarguy

I got the "Earthquake" impact wrench from harbor freight tools. It claims to have 650 lbs of torque and only cost $70 online (www.harborfreight.com). I used it on those very nuts and it spun them right off.

Thanks for all of those great parts! I can really use the differential, mine is totally shot, I just haven't had the desire to crawl around in the dirt at pick and pull to get another! Sorry I could not take the wheels, my truck was totally full of parts! Thanks again, Sean from Reno

Thanks kinfish for that info. I have owned several 240's and I could not remember the distance between those parts, it dosen't seem right that they are as close as they are! I had thought about the mustache bar being in backwards so I had taken it out to flip it around but to say it would not have lined up fight would have been an understatement... I mean it was WAY off. The postition of the diff in the car should pretty much be determined by the front diff mount. Although I didn't remove it from the diff it could still be on there backwards. I posted a pic of it...can any one out there tell if it facing the right direction? In any case, the length of the drive shaft kind of is what it is. From what I have read the drive shaft from the auto is the same as the one out of the four speed and different from the five speed. When I did the conversion I was told that is should be fine as long as I stuck with four speed. (can any one correct me on this?) I at one time owned a 71 also and it was one from before Datsun moved the diff backward because of the dreaded harmonic at speed (which mine had) which could be why there is alot of space between the parts on your car (unless you fixed that?) Any way, If the front mount ends up being corrent in its current position, I just might use old 'crystal blue' to re-contour the mustache a little to get some extra clearance unless someone has a better idea?

here is a pic of the rear end. as you can see there is some fuel line stuffed between the two pieces. I cut open the fuel line length-wise kind of flat. That fuel line is really only about 1/8" thick and it was a REALLY tight fit, I had to pry fairly hard to open that distance enough to fit in that fuel line in. Any ideas?

Hey......now there is an idea.....I can post a pic! I will get out there tonight and take a picture. Any way, it is still the original R-180, 3.5 to 1 (the original diff because it was an auto before I converted it to a 4 speed). When the diff was out I did remove the rear cover and looked at it. It seemed to be OK on visual inspection. I was tight as far as I could tell and did not make any noises when I would turn it by hand. That was all I could do with it with limited tools. I installed the rear cover and filled with redline MT-90. It has been about a year since I assembled that part of the car (you know, the back half) so things may have gone bad since then, it seems unlikely because I only drive it maybe 2-3k miles per year, but any thing is possible. I will get some pics up tonight Thanks!

Thanks for all responses and the great ideas of things to check...will do this weekend! Something I did last weekend was is I pryed the mustashe bar away from those solid vertical links I described in my first post and stuffed a piece of fuel line between them. This dramatically changed the noise but did not eliminate it, which may mean I might be on to something. my questions are 1)why are those pieces of metal so close? The frame shop said it was straight and nothing looks bent visually. 2)How close are those pieces of metal on other peoples cars? Maybe mine aren't really that close and it would not be a big deal to "tweak it" just enough. Any thoughts would be great!

Here is one to think about, I have a 73 240 that is mostly stock except for the usual upgrades; Round top SU's, urethane bushings, etc. Every thing is either new, rebuilt, or very well maintained. My problem starts when I am on the freeway. When I push the gas pedal down, it sounds like I have a solid steel diff mount (which I do not). It does not do it when I am crusing, coasting (at speed with the clutch pedal in), in first, second, third or fourth gear less than 50 or so mph. It only happens when I am at a decent speed (50 mph +), in fourth gear the gas is on (even just a little). The car is an ex-automatic and the drive train has always been in very good condition. I have checked EVERYTHING that moves at all (over and over for the past several months in fact!) and everything is in great condition, very solid and tight (in fact the car drives perfectly in all other aspects, it does not shake, shimmy, rattle, clunk, pull or anything). All bushings and bearings are new (except for the ones in the diff itself). U joints are not new but a few mechanics have looked at it and all agree that they are in fine condition. I rebuilt the car almost from the ground up and have done alot of work to it so I can not say that the problem arose at any one time. The one thing that I can see that might be a problem is that the mustashe bar is VERY close to the two big flat steel links that go from the lower control arm to the chassis vertically. By close I mean less than 3/32", just enough to pass day light thorugh. Maybe when the drive train is loaded up it twists enough to contact these points and transmit vibration directly to the chassis. Any ideas?

I have a brand new set of MSA V-8 motor and trans mounts for a 70-78 Z, a new MSA "aero lip" air dam with 240 turn signals, and E-88 intake manifolds. I would like to trade them for a new or in VERY good condition header that will fit a 73 240 with E-88 head. I live in Reno Nevada and will consider meeting some one half way who lives with in a days drive of Reno. If interested, e-mail me at zcarguy@moondog.net