justaZcarguy

I do want to eliminate the hoses, I really see no point... I need to search the forum and see what hoses to cap off or whatever. The fuel is running up the hose and going past the cap upon a hard left. I tested this out yesterday in Target parking lot, luckily, the cop that was having lunch in said parking lot was busy eating or I may have had an issue there... The fuel smell is only there if I have a window down and invite the neg pressure in. I plan on checking the hoses and gaskets (in the tail lights) this weekend.

Well Arne, I am going to go with both, but I think that the most prevelant smell is fuel, I did smell exhaust with the window down, (especially if I get on it.)but the sealing of the hatch helped that, I just need to check the rest of the seals (tail light and such...) and see that they are not the normal cracked that I am used to seeing. I'll look into a filler cap tomorrow, this should be interesting. Where did you get the hoses from? Hopefully I can get this all addressed before the Canby event... Thanks. I appreciate the help as always. ~Brian

Ok, I am about to scream... Every time that I corner hard to the left, I get gas dripping down the side of the car and fumes from hell in the cabin. These caps can be sealed, right? As in, they are not vented? Can you get a replacement cap? I am sure that mine is not sealing (obviously) and I was curious to anyone that has fixed this issue. I am also getting fumes inside the cabin when the window is down, I have sealed the trunk hatch and now I will check the gaskets around the tail lights, the fuel smell is about to drive me nuts. I get used to it and when a passenger gets in I get that, "your car smells like gas..." line. Good thing my brain cells are already toast. Thanks for the direction on both the cap and the fumes.... Have a great night. ~Brian

Terence speaks the truth, trust us.

Oh Tomo, where is your sense of adventure???? Plus, you forgot to mention the headers dangit. I've always been leary of that same thing, but have never had a problem. If you have arc outside the cap, them that is another issue. But still, better safe than fire marshall Bill. I can't say that I have had that vac leak in that same area, but I guess that I would try the steth idea, is it running rough at all?

Tomohawk, this is going to sound like a dumb question, but have you tried the starter fluid / carb cleaner trick? ~Brian

I am going with the stock... I cannot imagine the energy suspension parts offer that much of a performance improvement, I have already upgraded the moustache bar, rear sway bar and diffy mount to the poly. I'll suffer with the stock performance on the spindles as I want this done in an afternoon not 2 weeks while I wait on the right casting from Energy Suspension. My 3 cents. Yes, I need some coffey.

Speaking of which, what years are compatible?

Sounds to me like I may want to keep a switch handy, lemme see, do I have one of those....

Well, no cover on the way to work. That could not look more Ghetto. Anyway, a little heat to the touch on a few wires, but nothing burning-wise. Still no smoke, I do the low-air clean out thing and go from there. I am still leary of this, I feel like a poltergeist is in the car. Maybe I need a Preist. hmmm. ~B

The Master is up on the firewall and and the slave is on the bellhousing, replacing both is good insurance! I am not sure that I would use JC Whitney personally, I think that I would hit up NAPA if you could... Once you pay the shipping and such it is going to be close. Plus, NAPA is always good about exchanging the parts quickly in the event that you get the wrong part. You may hit up CarFiche.com and download a 280Z manual and check out the clutch section, even tho these manuals are 280Z oriented the clutch and other sections are applicable. Here is the link http://www.carfiche.com In the event that you need help, please let me know. ~Brian

Hey Graham, There is a slave cylinder on the bottom of the transmission, near the front, I want to say the passenger side. You will see it attached to the tranny with 2 bolts (10mm bolts I believe), it pushes the clutch fork to pivot it and push on the pressure plate. I would check that first as it is usually the culprit. You will see little or no movement pushing the fork if this is the problem. The good news is, they are somewhat easy to replace and not that expensive. Let us know... ~Brian

So, I am heading down the highway on the way home from work, exit the off ramp as per usual and at the stop light, I notice smoke coming from the hole for the turn signal. Holy :tapemouth ! (I think to myself in an oh-so-calm manner...) So I cut the lights and it does not seem to go away, so naturally I blow on it. Am I attempting to start the fire or stop it??:stupid: After a bit and a lot of watching, said smoke goes away. I watched this damn thing more than the road I think, it never reappeared. A few miles from home, I key on the parking lights, still nothing. Ok, try the headlamps. Still no smoke. I get home find the nearest phillips and remove the plastic upper and lower, start the Z, key the park lights, eventually key the headlamps. NOTHING. No sign of burned wires, no discoloration, no heat to the touch, both under a sustained 3 min or so slight rev to the engine and at idle. I'm stumped. The funny thing is, everything in there looks redone, new signal cam, the headlight and park light circut have been rerouted / seperated the correct way to eliminate the load on the switch. I run these lights (at least the park lights) every time I run the car. Day or night. This has never occourred, the only thing that was out of the ordinary was that I had sustained between 75-80 on the open highway for the last 4 miles or so. (Sudden urge, what can I say?) I know that I am not crazy, I saw and smelled smoke. I am leaving the cover off the column and gonna keep an eye on it for the next few trips... Anyone else experience this? I am suprised on it, it all looks so clean and fresh compared to other columns that I have taken apart... Suggestions? Dave? Escanlon? Thanks guys, sorry for the long post. ~Brian

With all the issues I've heard about the Energy Suspension parts, is it easier to just go with the stock replacements? Sorry for your problems... ~Brian

Ok, this damn thing HAS to come outa this car this weekend before I stab my ears out. :tapemouth Anyway, it's a 3:90 and I hate to loose it dammit. Has anyone ever rebuilt one of these? I am thinking it may be a bearing issue, and hopefully the ring is not wore due to the off lash. Anyone here rebuilt one? I have reviewed the R&R in the service man but I am unsure where (besides Nissan) the "kit" would be... Any ideas?

One, what is aling the pooch, and how much. Just tell us... Maybe we could get a bad of people toghther that could pitch in a few extra bucks, hey a little bit goes a long waaaaay. I would be personally be up for this and would be willing to donate to it. I work for Bank of America and I am sure that we can work something out that will work for everyone. Mike, Ideas? Feel free to call me on my cell phone and I will do what I can. for anyone. You struck a nerve with me, compassion for dogs and compassion for Z's. I want to step forward (as do others) and lend a helping hand in a way we know how. Ideas? call me at 503.544.1901 just my 2 cents, spend it well, Brian.

Soooooo... When looking into replacement struts, do I need to compensate for the lowering of the chassis? It seems like you would need to adjust for the travel...

I think that yours is a tad lower.... I want to say that I have 25" from the high point of the fender well to the ground. And that is with 205/55/15's, I need to measure the tire height....

I want something middle of the road as this is going to become a daily driver (i think) And if I install the struts and it raises the car I am going to shoot myself. I have read of that in past and that would suck. I need to do some homework previous to that, I so think that the car could usa more retention on the sudden raises and dips on the road such as you are talking about on the back roads. Thanks for the input Arne as I know that you have been thru this... ~Bri

That is next (amongst other things...) I have some stuff that resembles Wizards Miracle Metal Polish, kinda cotton-like stuff. I was looking for a thread on strut R&R, anyone have a link? thanks!!!! ~Bri

That is a great question, the previous owner did all that. I need to get a hold of him and check on that, I want to say that they are Tok's but I could be wrong about that. I am sure that they could use to be redone... Suggestions?

Thought that I would post the most recent pics of the Z, this is with 1.5 coils out of Airzona Springs... I plan on going with coil overs later in the year and for now this will work.

Is there a solution to that? The last thing is the same result here... By the way, thanks for the help! ~Brian

Well it is starting to look like the next two weekends are the weekends to do the Diffy swap and the Spindle pin pull and redo the bushings. Those bushings are wore out, you can actually move the drivers side wheel to and fro by hand with the car on the ground. Fun. Think that is the cause of the car doing the changing direction from the rear unpon accel / decel, eh? Anyway, anyone know the part number and best place to obtain the pin bushings? Appreciate it...

I want to say that the club is Bend Area Datsun Association.... A.k.a. B.A.D.arse How's that for cool? ~Brian And I am am jealous of your location, excellent area!!!!