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richyboycaldo

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  1. my bad, here the other thread I did 4 years ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=357021&posted=1#post357021
  2. Any know solutions? The washer I installed between the forks really helped a lot, but I guess is something temporary.
  3. I found a similar issue, someplace else, apparently there is a guy from Zspecialites called Z man of Washington that sells some bushing kits for Type A, here is the link. "If you have the "A" type, the shifter rod passes through a pipe with rubber bushings and connects with a nut on the end of the shifter. Check here to see the physical difference. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg Z man of washinton has bushing kits for the A type. I have used a nut and bolt through the folk connection point to tighten up the slack there. Use a self locking nut (nylock) or a pair of skinny nuts locked together to leave the joint moveable but still provide compression to remove the play." http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/240z_sick_shifter_891684.0.html http://zspecialties.com/
  4. I'am the OP and still have the same problem, no harm done.
  5. I had the same problem, so I placed a thin washer between forks and helped a bit. Any other suggestions?
  6. Hello, Its me again, Its been 4 years, but I decided to continue with the 240z project. I replaced part 2,3,4,30 31, 38, from the diagram. I figured out the fork thing. My "loosesness" is coming from part 30 and 31. I decided to put a washer between both ends of part 40/41 in order for pin 30 to be more tight and helped a bit, but I haven't changed parts 33/ 34 Does anyone know were I can buy them?
  7. Here is a quote from kinfish "The "A" style transmissions used in the Series I 240's are inherently sloppy with age due to poor design. That is one reasons they upgraded to the "B" style which uses the nylon bushings shown in the "sblake01" response. I found that the problem is caused by wear of the fork, not the pin which is held in place by that tiny snapring. I also replaced the rubber bushings holding the shift lever but it did nothing to reduce sloppyness. I decided to live with it!" I already changed the bushings (not for brass ones) what does he mean by fork?
  8. Hello I have a 240z 70 vin 05820, so I have the type A, however I already changed 3 bushings and the pin, nothing changed, so in a post I read a guy who sais it was the fork, so I went on ebay and just typed "240z fork" and bought one looks like a "Y" (but sideways) but apparently it looks like something for the cluth, is this the right fork or are any other forks?. thank you very I am getting tyred of the sloopines and I want to keep the stock tranny.
  9. wowww thx a lot, I was almost sure I wassent going to find one. thx!
  10. Hi, while my Z was in the body shop, the stupid guy doing the work, pass the buffer directly into the Vin plate in the enigne compartment, the vin is still readable, but besides that is damn ugly, so is there place were I can get a new vin plate with my original VIN or what can i do? thx in advance.
  11. how much does a l24 engine weight?
  12. woow, congrat that answered all of my questions. gonna buy them anyways, I restoring my 240z Z (vin 5820) to compete in stock class but i dont have the originals rims, so these will be mi temporary ones. thx a lot
  13. richyboycaldo posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Hi, I found some stock wheels that the owner thinks they are from a 240z, but he has a 280zx, here is the # TOPY 8-775Jx14S 3.2t D, does somebody know what this number mens? I need the rims to be from a 70
  14. richyboycaldo posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I coudl delete my past post
  15. cool never seen a blue one, mines orange but from time to time I dont no if its light or fade away, do judges look for the exact color in a oem class?

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