maabus03

wow thanks for all the suggestions. I'm actually going to college at wyotech, missoula doesn't offer that heh. I don't think there is any datsun specialists in my area (that i know of). Have new radiator hoses, water pump and belt. No rubber lines, all that braided metal lines( forgot name). I think I will get the alternator checked out, its rather old. Rotor and plugs all new also, shouldn't need those. I will need to change out the filter in the electric fuel pump. At least I do have AAA if something goes bad. Thanks guys

Over memorial weekend I'll be drivin my Z around 900 miles from NW MT to the SE tip of Wyoming to where I'm going to college... I'm worried my Z might break down somewhere on the way. It runs very good now, but I have never driven it over a 100 mile trip. I recently got a full coolant flush and will do a oil change before I go. Also a basic tune up of course. On a trip like this, whats the most common thing that goes out? Just about anything engine mechanical or electrical I can fix myself. But what about other areas that might go out? U-joints and wheel bearings all look good. I "have" to be back on tuesday and worried about not makin it if something happens. I can't get anyone to follow b/c its such a long drive (13 and 1/2hrs). Towing it or using a trailer isn't a option, my truck could barely pull it being only a v6 ranger. So any advice would be greatly appreciated!

On my 240z the PO put in the XR 3000 Electronic Ignition System with the L24 engine. That engine is now toast and I plan on putting in a 280z engine. Would I be better off using the 280z distributor or stay with the electronic ignition from the 240z ( using same distrib. as l24) for best performance? One other question, in that L24 engine it had the E88 head with a Isky racing cam, don't have specs atm but would that fit into the 280z head? I don't know what head it is yet, getting engine tomorrow. So is the cam size the same in the heads so it would simply replace the stock one? I don't know much about cams so any help would be great. I can probably get the exact cam and specs later if needed. Thanks for the help

I'll have to give that a try tomorrow, since it'll take til probably saturday until I get that cheap rebuild kit and SU video. I was reading a post a few hours ago about how these cars running poorly on cheap gas. Thanks for the suggestion.

I did try to enrichen the mixture...I adjusted the mixtures to fully rich, didn't do much, and did the opposite, to fully lean. Barely any difference, idled a bit higher/lower (can't remember offhand if it idled lower or higher). I am running on the cheapest gas...I could try to put like the premium in there and see if that makes a difference. Did you put the seafoam in the gas tank or actually pour into the carbs? I put seafoam into the fuel tank, didn't run any different unless it hasn't gotten to the engine yet...doubtful.

Compression check after valve adjustment showed 120-125 on all 6 cylinders now. Tested fuel pressure, getting 4.5 psi. Also tested alternator, getting full charge from alternator and plenty of juice under load. Ordered the SU video and have a cheap rebuild kit comin on friday/sat, so that might fix it. If anyone has any other idea's i can check until i get those, let me know. Thanks

I adjusted the valves after I did the compression check, haven't checked them since, should have improved it some. 10 of 12 vavles needed to be adjusted quite a bit. About the carbs...it doesn't seem to matter how much the carbs are adjusted, the airflow is the same between them. I have the flat top carbs also, and its the exact same thing with them. So I figured it had to be somethin else. Gonna go ahead and order the video, might help. The piston does freely move up and down. Another possibility is I think I might have some of my vacuum lines mixed up. Anyone have a picture of the E-33 intake with the 72 su carbs I could use as a reference to verify all my vacuums. Thanks

I have the early model of a 260z with a 240z engine. It has the distrubiter off the original 260z engine and the 72 SU carbs. The original engine had the same problems but had the 74 flat top carbs on it (which were supposably rebuilt). I had a 240z parts car this engine and carbs came from. Ran great but was a complete rust bucket. So i'm just using this engine temporary til either i rebuild original or convert to v8 ( leaning towards v8 for the power ) The problem I'm having is its backfiring thru the carbs when I give it gas. Usually it won't do this if I "slowly" rev it up. I can get it to idle perfectly at 750 rpm. Sounds and idles smoothly. It also does this with the other carbs ( flat tops). Planning on using the rounds tops only. I'm pretty sure the carbs are running too lean. When I raise the piston the car will start to die ( same results on both carbs). I've tried adjusting the mixture nuts to fully rich and didnt change a thing. Still tries to die when raising the pistons. Some of the other things i've tried is: Adjusting timing...set it at 7 degrees at 750 rpm like my books shows. New distr. cap and rotor, plug/coil wires, Swapping fuel pumps ( have 3, no difference in any of them), new plugs -gapped at.35, new fuel filter ( Popping got alot worse after changing this. Used to have expensive fuel filter, changed to cheap clear one), changed practically all the fuel lines/vacuum lines with new hoses, compltely took apart carbs ( 72 su's) and cleaned them with carb cleaner, no worn out or damage I could find, adjusted the valves about 20 mins ago (hot). Probably a few other small things I can't think of right now. Still no difference and has only gotten worse after changing that fuel filter. I noticed the rear carb is sucking in way more air then the front one. Front one is barely sucking in any air. Also the rear carb is kinda making a hissing sound coming from it at idle ( same sound as with flattop carbs). Lately its beginning to get worse and worse. Almost sounds as if the carbs are sucking in too much air and not enough fuel? If I give it gas quickly, it just chokes and pops and dies. A few times I've even had good sized flames come out of there. Also I noticed the plugs foul up fast. I've also done compression check, 125 on first 4, 105 on 5, 95 on 6. Tomorrow I plan on blowing out all the fuel lines and making sure its all free flowing because it sounds like it just not getting enough fuel. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to test it either. I'm stumped on what to do, i've searched and searched on the forums for somethin else but nothin has made a difference. So any suggestions or idea's would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for the suggestions, sounds like it'll be tough any way I do it.

I'm looking for both door panels for a 74 260z. Preferably need them white and no tears. Can be faded/worn or dirty. Thanks

To start off, i'm swapping a 5spd with a 4spd in my 74 260z. The 5spd is in my 73 240z ( started off as project car but found good deal on 260z...minimal rust) and planning on taking that out and puttin in 260z ( which leads to another question later). I know how to do the removal/installation of tranny, thats np, but I was just wondering if you guys have or know of a easier ways of swapping tranmissions without removing the engine. All I have is 4 jackstands to put the car up on. So mainly I'm just looking the best ways to unbolting the tranny while its in the car. Like what put under it? a jack to hold itup (tranny)? but how do i keep it from tipping over ect. Another on how to put it back up there? Kinda hard trying to hold that tranny up and bolting it at the same time. I will have a person helping me but still will be tough while having to be under the car. So I'm just lookin for some tips on making this process quicker and easier. ( On the '73 240z I had the engine pulled when I put on the tranny so was alot easier). Actually have 2 more questions 1. On my 73 240z, it used to be a automatic and I did the 5spd conversion on it. When I bolted the tranny up, I wasn't able to shift it at all because the tranny was too short and the shifter would only stay in either 2 or 4th gear. I would've ended up having to cut the tranmission tunnel hole larger for it to shift. I'm putting that 5 spd in my 74 260z now...but its a 4spd already. Would I have that problem or should the size (tranny) be the same? The tranny is out of a 78 280z I think, not for sure. 2. This doesn't have to do with drivetrain ect, but will ask it. On the 260z, when I bought it recently, someone had completely disconnected the electric fuel pump in the rear and hooked up new tubes going directly from the fuel tank on up to the carbs ( or wherever they go up there).so now the fuel pump is just hanging there, no fuel in or out. I checked the connections and turned the key to 'on' and to see if it worked, didn't hear it working so guesing its shot. My question is should I keep it as is or replace it and hook it back up? (btw there is a fuel filter back there and the mechanical fuel pump on the engine does work) Can the 260z run well enough on just the one pump? I noticed my carbs occasionaly backfire when I accelerate and idles, would that because of lack of fuel? Sry for being so long. Really appreciate your suggestions and help though ( won't be able to check back til tomorrow night/morning(3:30am)).

Thanks for the confirmation. Just gotta get the exact measurement. Planning on getting it done tomorrow morning. Having the different crankshaft, would that affect the transmission in any way?

I got a 73 240z auto that I'm converting to a 5 spd. I got a flywheel from another 240z, don't remember year. The problem I'm having is the flywheel won't fit onto my 240z engine. I don't know the exact name of the part it bolts onto but i'llt ry to explain it best as I can. Coming out of the crankshaft, there's that round piece that sticks out a little and that the flywheel is suppose to fit into and bolts onto. Heres my problem, is the round piece that its suppose to bolt onto, is too big to fit the flywheel. Friend of mine called the MSA tech line and asked them about it. They said the crankshaft was different on some of the earlier cars and that the only thing I could do was swap the engine or change the driveshaft. Neither of which I want to do or go back to the automatic because i've already payed for all the parts for manual ( master/clave clutch cyl, clutch assemblie, ect). I haven't seen any flywheels that have the larger ?slot? that would fit the larger crankshaft. Woudl anyone know if it would work to have a machine shop make the slot that the crankshaft fits onto larger? It would only need to be made bigger about quarter inch bigger. If it was made exactly same size as the crankshaft so it fitted on there, would that work and not dmg the clutch or make the flywheel not perform as well? Sorry I can't explain this better. Any suggestions are helpful and appreciated. Have talked to a machine shop that said they can do it.... Just need to find out if that'll work or not. If you need better explaining, i'll try my best. thanks

Thanks for the suggestions, found out it was the air pump and it was rusted together. Tried putting a belt on it to see if that would make it move but just ended up killing the battery b/c it was working too hard to budge it. Ended up just taking it out. And as for not starting, was b/c the float in the carbs was stuck and wasn't putting fuel into the engine. Cleaned out both of the carbs and it started pretty good. Also as far as changing oil, replacing hoses,wires ect, already done that, just figured it wasn't important to talk about that. Planning on bleeding the brakes too, the brake fluid is jelly One problem I'm having now tho is letting it idle when I first start it up. I have to start it up and keep the RPM's at about 1500 to warm the engine up and then it'll eventually move. Took about 20 mins once of keeping it at 1500 to finaly keep it from die'ing when I try to move it or idle. I had to increase the idle to about 1000rpm so it doesn't die. Any suggestions on makin it idle better? One part I haven't replaced yet is the old spark plugs, plannin on doing that soon once I get some $. Bad spark plugs causing that? Thx for the help again

I got a 1973 240z. Its been sitting around since the late 80's and rarely droven since then. Been fixed up a few times and driven a little. Its been about 6 yrs now since anyone has touched it and been just left out in the field. Its in overall good shape, not too much rust. Anyway one of the pullys won't move at all. I "think" its the air pump pully? Its the one on the opposite side of the alternator on the bottom. Its the only pully you can actually adjust by loosing bolts. When I decided to push the car into the garage and fix it up, it had no belts at all on there. I got all new belts and put them on there ( I think their correct? anyone know of a website with the diagram for belts?) Right now it doesn't start. But thats because of the battery we think. Not enough charge. When we turn it over, the belt just moves around it and the pully doesn't move at all. Would that cause it not to start? If that is, any suggestions on how to get that moving? thanks for the help.