Bambikiller240

Yeah, I'd just buy a set and IF, after all is said and done; I only needed one floorpan, I'd put the other one in one of two places. My attic, or eBay. But that's just me. Pornographic? It almost looks like a "snuff" film. j/k

any idea about the price?

Any further news on these repro seat mechanism covers?

Contact Zedd Findings and ask Charlie. http://www.datsunzparts.com/ It's his business, he's the best source for an answer to this question. FWIW, most people reuse their old seat mounts (unless they are rusted into oblivion)

vibration is another big reason that cracks develop and enlarge from a small chip, and you can't avoid the vibration. (Unless the car sits in your heated garage for the entire rest of it's life, but you didn't buy it to just look at it, did you?)

Plasti-Master www.graffitimaster.com

350Z is considered a "Premium" Sports Car? Oh, Brother! :tapemouth (bet you can imagine what I'm think'in)

Oh, Goodie. Something to put me to sleep. Wink, Wink. No "D" in "because".

That site has a lot of paint chips to look through. That's great. Our website has a few of them (buried somewhere) I wonder where they come up with some of those names? Nissan calls 115 "Blue Metallic", then PPG calls it "Blue Poly". WTF? I've seen other paint company chips call other Nissan colors different (but still incorrect) names as well.

So what you're saying is, If Boyd could point him in the right direction, he wouldn't be pointing at himself?

plase add a pic of the driver side tail light when you get it cleaned. It'll be interesting to see how much of the dingy-ness comes off since the tail lights on the driver side are typically soaked in exhaust fumes for years. (more so than the passenger side)

.........and cut the bolthead off. replace.

If it's like a 240Z, you'll need 14mm box-end wrenches. Usually two of them are needed. You may have to rotate the d/s to put each bolt in a position where you can reach it easily. Minor PITA, but do-able.

The paint names changed in 1972. No more cutsie names, just color and number (i.e. 112 Yellow). See Nissan's TSB Introducing the 1972 Model S30 Sports for details.

Fit? You mean physically fit in a 72 240Z? Yes. Will it be compatable with ALL of the components in a 72 240Z, NO. There are significant differences in the wiring and components between a 72 and 73. Additional Smog items, connectors to some of the gauges and other electrical components changed. If you have enough patiences, time and money you might be able to graft on the connectors to make it work, but you might still end up with some 73 wires and nohing to connect them to in a 72 car

Mine doesn't have one. I think your car had a P.O. with too much time on his hands.

Is this a real NEW catalog, or the same one they've had for 4 years?

only in memory of times long ago and far, far away.

Custom bodywork shops that build Hot Rods can probably advise you. As you said, not many people do this work anymore. If you can stand to talk to the guy, Boyd Coddington or one of his peers could point you in the right direction.

My car is 11/71 titled as a 72. My VIN is exactly 4900 later than yours. It has the same equipment that you describe, though I have pockets for the retract belts, but it never had retact belts. Came with regular belts, though I have acquired retracts to install at some point. I don't think many (if any) car got the retract belts before 1/72 production. My hatch key is different from the key for the other locks. I had always figured the PO had replaced the hatch lock for some reason, but maybe not.

I have done this using old head bolts to make guide pins for trans install. Cut the head off of each bolt, then cut a vertical slot into the top of each bolt (which now resembles a stud) and you can then use a large screw driver to install/remove the bolts/guide pins.

The attached image is a picture of a page in the Nissan TSB introducing the 1972 model 240Z (w/ "B" trans, recline seats, etc) as you can see, by this time Nissan had dropped the "cutsie" color names and simply referred to the colors by generic color names and numbers.

If it is just the shell, with no bits attached (buyer has to source "everything/anything that attaches to the shell") I'd say its only worth a couple of hundred dollars (US). You can buy parts cars that aren't in too bad of shape here for $500 and they have an engine, trans, diff, and many, many other usable parts. JMO

It doesn't have to be "breakneck speeds". It's a combination of the speed of the car and the radius of the turn, Front to Rear weight ratio of the car, grip level of the tires, etc. A car car understeer at relatively low speeds, or medium speeds, even at higher speeds. (PS I've editted my post since you saw it) If your road wheels aren't changing position (i.e. are NOT "just straightening out a lot") but the arc of the turn becomes wider, it's understeer. Oh ya, I've always called it the Steering Coupler. Not sure if that is the proper term or not, but I'd never heard of a rag joint before tonight

you've got to be kidding, the main instrument cluster in that dash you provided a link of JUTS out from the rest of the dash (rounded as the rest of the dash is) A dash in a 240Z is all smooth flowing lines, everything is rounded and flowing. We had stereo's in the 60"s, 50's and even earlier, friend. A Ghetto Blaster Boom Box is a variation of a stereo. Install one of these bad boys in a car. It can be done, but IMO shouldn't. As others have said, it's your car and you only have to please yourself, but Pride, Performance, and Preservation have nothing to do with the modifications that you seem to desire, so expect a little differing opinion when you post about things like this. Some of us see things differently than you do.