Bambikiller240

The POR PATCH paste works great, but I think he was wanting to have Metal Ready in a gel form.

I understand what you are saying about the angle of the adjuster teeth, but I can tell you for a fact that you can use the E-brake too much and it will overtighten the brakes over time. I cannot explain the "how" of it, but I've experienced having to deal with it, when my ex-wife always parked on a hill at work and set the E-brake tightly. She didn't get to drive my car too much after that and a few other situations. EDIT: Maybe something was wrong with the E-Brake/Wheel cyl assembly that I didn't notice, and it got fixed when I took it apart? I dunno, but I didn't replace any parts at that time.

Last couple of weeks here (15 miles from San Jose) have been quite warm. I'm lovin it. Our summer had been cooler than usual.

If you only drive manual trans cars, it gets to be 2nd nature to depress the clutch pedal as you get ready to start the car. When I drive an automatic occasionally, my foot still searches for a clutch pedal as I get into the car.

Nothing to worry about in parking your car with transmission in gear. (I'm no "tranny expert"), but I have never heard or experienced any problems and I've been parking my cars in gear for 35 years. The only time I am 100% sure to use the E-brake in addition to leaving the car in gear is when parking on a grade (up or down). As far as operating the E-brake lever several times before moving thecar, you would need to be careful of doing that too often as operating the E-brake handle excessively can adjust your rear brakes tighter, and tighter until they are locked.

For $30K I'd include the hood! No Bill, Not selling unless I get a $30K offer

yeah, something looks funky at the upper right corner of the hatch. I bet any number of us could find rust on it within 15 minutes.

$2100 for a car that doesn't run, has beat up fenders, bumpers not installed? :stupid:

Wouldn't you rather have my Z for the low, low price of $30K???????????

Kyle: I'd pull the Alt and battery and have them both checked at a parts store first. If you have to upgrade Alternators, I'd go with a internally regulated ZX unit rather than a GM "one-wire" unit. It won't get you as many AMPS out, but it is doubtful that your wiring system can safely handle 100 AMPS anyway. There is a Technical Article about the ZX Alt upgrade in Tech articles forum if you decide you want/need to go that route. BTW, I have a friend who switched to a GM one wire alt in his Toyota truck and he's been replacing the alt at least once a year and has had wiring meltdowns several times over the past 3 years.

People on 'Ludes should not start auctions!!!!!!!!!!!!!! "The original SU carburetor, which is a 2 1barrel carburetor was exchanged for a Webers carburetor which 2 barrel. "

To add to Stephens description............I don't know anyone who would say a T5 "felt a lot tighter and more precise" than a Nissan transmission.

Not me (so far)

If you ever have to work on the engine, you'll probably wish you hadn't done it as your arms and hands will likely get chewed on by the rough texture. It's your car and your call, but I wouldn't do it on my car.

It died with the site meltdown. Mike will need to recreate it, or make other arrangements.

Interesting idea. I'll have to try that next time.

I use a short length of chain. One end bolted to a transmission mount hole in the block, and the other end connected to one of the pressure plate bolts. Need to have washers to keep the bolt head from popping though the chain links

First it was Japanese twins, now it's leather...............K I N K Y ! ! !

Do you have the Cowel? Where the winshield wipers stick out in front of the windsheild?

As abas suggested, some aftermarket parts are not made very well. "Made in China" or elsewhere and of poor materials and construction methods. I want my engine to stay where it belongs and not (potentially) leap forward and rape my radiator or do other damage to the drivetrain. The OEM mounts were not that expensive IMO.

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In the USA, aftermarket mounts are available. I would stick with OEM if your budget can handle it though.

Welcome. It would be easy to ruin the new tie rod boots if you had to remove them. SOme people have been successful in removing them without damage. I'm not one of them. Somehow I always screw at least one of them up. Have you checked the balance on the tires/wheels? The cause could be anything from Wheels/Tires, to Inner Tie Rod ends, to Outer Tie Rod ends, to Ball Joints, to Suspension bushings, to Steering Rack, to Steering Coupler. (Or a combination of two or more) Remember your car is close to 30 years old, Do you know how well has it been maintained (with any certainty)? I would suggest rebuilding the entire front end at one time. Do the job in one shot and you won't be back under that part of the car for a long time. Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints, Lower Suspension Arm & Sway bar bushings. Check the brakes (while you are in there) Clean and regrease the Wheel bearings too. This is not that difficult or expensive of a job.

Mine doesn't have anything between the guards and the bumper.

Your POR materials should have come with lots of information on application. If you don't have it, you can view and print the info from their website, or the site of your local distributor. http://www.por15.com/ http://www.thefinishedlook.com/products.htm