Bambikiller240

Motorsport Auto lists one fender for all S30's 70-78. They DO NOT mention anything about 2+2 or coupe, so it looks like they are all the same.

Whoa, I didn't mean anything like that at all. Sorry if it sounded that way, it wasn't intended.

same auction that GaryZ240 posted about, right?

My recollection from swapping everything (as much as possible) from a 3/73 240Z into a 71 chassis is that I could not use the filler hose from the 73 in the 71 chassis for some reason. It was a long time ago and I do not remember the specific reason I could not use it. In checking the Nissan Parts Microfiche I note the following information which people may want to consider before looking for replacement filler hoses on eBay or salvage yards. There are 3 Fuel Filler hoses listed in the Microfiche for 240Z / 260Z. 17208-E4100 is the Original Part Number and supercedes to... 17208-E8700 which is used through 9/72 production 17208-N3050 is listed for 10/72 production through 8/74 (note this does NOT show as superceding the earlier filler hoses.) Has anyone actually used a 17208-N3050 in a 9/72 or earlier production date 240Z? MSA lists just the one PN mentioned by Chris for 70-74 (I wonder if it is a replacement (generic) part or one of the OEM PN's??

I think that you need to use the T.O. bearing collar to match whichever Clutch/Pressure Plate (240 OR 280) you plan to install. You might want to do a search using "Throw Out Bearing Collar" or "Release Bearing Collar" to confirm and get more information

Oddly, my VIN plate doesn't even mention GVWR

Lance, What is your eBay ID? What kind of stuff do you sell?

Great idea Mike. Do you by chance have the dimensions of the bracket? Like height it needs to stand off of the tunnel for the lever mechanism to fit under, etc? Don't go pulling you console if you don't have the info handy, I'm just curious for future reference.

Depends on how far one is going to go in swapping all systems to a different chassis. I rebuilt the entire suspension, brakes, fuel system, engine, half shafts / driveshaft, heater system, repaired some minor rust, every nut and bolt was cleaned or replaced, and every part was cleaned, and painted; or replaced if necessary. I sent the body out to be painted by a detail oriented body shop. I worked on the car at least one day per weekend, and 1 to 3 hours most weekday evenings. I was on a budget and ordered parts as I went along, sometimes had to wait a bit for certain parts. My project took over 9 months to complete.......and it was a great experience. I'd love to have the time and space to do it again

I was just play'in around Stephen. You know the drill on your neat little L320 pickup truck, and on other older vehicles made before the mid 70's. You just get used to checking all that stuff yourself on a routine basis because warning lights weren't available when the vehicle was produced. I do agree that they are handy systems, but an old fart like me still wants to see it for myself.

To a 240Z guy they are kinda funky. (New fangled electrical whatchamacallits) I have always used my eyes (and maintainance procedures) to tell me when to add fluids. When I was learning about cars, the mechanics at the dealership I was employed at told me, "By the time an idiot light goes on it is often too late of a warning".

I did this swapping everything from a 73 into a 71 shell quite a few years ago. Like 26th-Z says there is no magic involved but it is no small job. Careful planning and attention to detail during both the disassembly AND assembly are key to making it successful and enjoyable. As for time, I couldn't give an estimate. It all depends on how skilled you are, what repairs/refreshing of components you do as the process unfolds.

Motorsport Auto lists them in their catalog. Have you inquired at a Nissan Dealer? Those would be the only two places that I know that may still have them (new).

Oh, nevermind....................

I've heard of them somewhere....... Dasboard Resto Forum

Seems like I remember people with 280Z's posting this symptom in the past. Don't 280Z's have those funky Master cylinder caps with the sensors to cause the warning light to come on when the fluid level in the master is low? I think that some people discovered that the caps or wiring had gone south and caused this problem.

MSA in the USA sells them in Polyurethane. Nissan used to (I *think* they still do) sell a harder rubber version through the Nismo catalog.

I would just get the proper insulators for use with the N36 Intake and be done with it. SOme folks believe that the N36 is a better intake manifold. I would think that the E88 could be aluminum welded, but that will cost more than the insulators, and if the crack is though an intake runner, the interior of that runner should be smoothed where the repair occurs to avoid creating turbulence that could affect the operation of that cylinder. Linkage will be fine if you use the balance tube from the E88.

Reinforcement beams were required on 73 240Z's, but I believe from looking at the data at www.ZHome.com that the production of 73 USA model 240Z's started in August of 1972. See "Production Changes 69 - 73" in left collumn. They mention 2.5 MPH bumpers and some other changes. They do not mention the door beams, but the 73 240Z that I owned (mfg'd 3/73) had them.

Hi Mike: If he meant 1.5 inches, then I wouldn't hesitate to use the Power Mesh and Epoxy putty. It would work fine for that. It could be that he meant 1.5 inches. I dunno. Check that rail like Ed mentions. Best to fix it all at once.

The Power Mesh fabric is good, but for a 1 and 1/2 Foot gash.............I do not believe it is intended or capable of securing that kind of damage. I used the epoxy putty to fill the small to medium pin holes and it worked well also, but I don't think it provided much if any strength. One other thing to think about is if you plan on using the kit to cover one or both sides of both Left AND Right floor pans. The kit may not give you enough POR15 to do both sides of both floorpans.

The POR15 repair kit is fine for repairing "PIN HOLES" in the floorpan. It will not provide ANY structural integrity to the pan. If what you have is a "1.5' rust gash" (as I define a gash) you'd be better off spending money on the replacement floorpan AND also getting the POR15 kit to ensure that it never rusts. POR15 is a good product, but it is not magic.

Ken: Do you have any experience with the durability of paints that you used in an outdoor environment (subject to repeated heating and cooling cycles, constant UV, etc.)?

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I'm no electrical wiz, but I believe that if you ground it to anything, it would stay hot all the time. I think it would need to be connected to a switch or relay in order to have 2 states (grounded, or not grounded, in essance Hot, or not hot)